Boots for the wilderness

Looks from Tim Hamilton's Aw09 collection.

Fashion moves so fast and at this point in to a season I am always a little confused. As the nights come earlier and the days that bit cooler I never know quite what to write about because most of my inspiration is somewhere in the future. Everything around me is geared towards SS10 (look books, press days etc) but in the real world it feels as though we are only just entering Aw09. I feel like I am lost in the great unknown, the fashion wilderness, no man's land. What does one need in the wilderness? Boots of course.

These boots are made for walking...and looking like a modern day dandy. Lanvin Aw09

Lace up boots can be something of a sartorial testosterone shot. They were employed with great effect in a number of Autumn Winter shows, including Alexander Mcqueen, Calvin Klein, Rick Owens, Lanvin and of course, my particular favourite Tim Hamilton. The February shows demonstrated that they can be both smart and causal. This experimentation trickled through to a number of look books, most notably in Christophe Lemaire's offering which saw the French designer use them effectively throughout the relaxed volume and natural textures of his collection. They are a true staple of the season. A catalyst for the silhouette whilst accentuating both skinny and loose fitting trousers.

The waiting game. Lodger's Kudu Brogued Boot.

Regular readers will know that I fell head over heels for Lodger's September shoe of the month, the Kudu Brogued Boot and I am now (im)patiently waiting their delivery. The wait will undoubtedly be worth it. The boot is an eight eyelet brogued style, and has a skeleton lining of the same Kudu leather as the upper, and a full lining in a plush purple velvet from Scabal. As there is only a certain amount of kudu leather available Lodger can only make around twenty five pairs or so. With this in mind and to pass the time until I can shoe horn my feet in to my beloved Kudu's I have trawled through the best of the rest online. There are just so many beautiful boots available online. If you too are stumbling around the fashion wilderness then take a look at the offerings below...

The best of the rest list (clockwise from top left):

• Raf Simons for Dr Martens 8 hole boot: Raf Simons works his magic on a simple and classic 8 hole DM boot in a black leather. Available from oki-ni.

• Ann Demeulemeester buckle lace up worker boots: Black leather lace-up worker boots from Ann Demeulemeester featuring a buckled strap around the top of the boot. Fine if you have a spare £695. Available from farfetch.

• B Store suede lace up worker boot: Navy suede ankle boot from b Store with seam detailing and grey laces. Available from farfetch and bstore.

• Trickers Tan Leather boot: Something of a classic. Tan leather brogue style lace-up boots by Trickers. Available from farfetch.

• Alexander McQueen ‘Calamity Halfboot’: A sturdy leather lace up boot with a double side zip detail, heel pull and heavy treaded Vibram sole. Available from oki-ni.

• Mr. Hare Kerouac: The Kerouac is a man’s boot with a little romanticism and some healthy disrespect for the rules. It’s an adventure boot. It was oh so tempting when I first saw the collection and I was close to buying a pair. Must resist buying a pair now but they are so gooood...Available from oki-ni.

• Bed Stu Leather boot: An antiqued black leather boot with leather lining and sole. Five eyelet laceup. Available from Oak.

• Lanvin Leather lace up ankle boots: The "I wish I were rich" boots. These black leather lace-up ankle boots have wool detailing on both sides. Available at Browns.

• F-Troupe Black Sheepskin Hi Top: If all of the above are just too aspirational, how about this pair from f-troupe? The classic shape gets a winter upgrade with a shearling upper. Available from Oak.

Celebrities to go uggly?

Ugg Boots become a must have fashion accessory for celebrity men

This is the most provocative headline I've read for some time which is saying something given that there have been some ridiculous ones in recent weeks what with the US Election and the Brand/Ross BBC saga. For me there is a great deal of room for men to interpret the world of fashion and style and interpret them to fit them as an individual. I dislike the very idea of following rules in all aspects of life but in particular with regards to personal style. I do have one rule/commandment though:

Men shall not wear ridiculous bear feet monstrosities instead of actual shoes/boots.

Is there anything to salvage from di Caprio's outfit?

I appreciate the fact that these boots have some appeal; they are supposedly very comfortable and warm but no self respecting man should be wearing them outside the confines of his own home and question marks can even be raised when he's wearing them in the safety of his own abode. These are comfortable slippers nothing more. They should only be worn when the the central heating packs up or if you have circulation trouble. At £140 these are far from cheap as well and there must be more affordable and better looking options out there for those who suffer from cold toes. Male celebrities should certainly know better! Sadly, once again this is a case of a celebrity having more money than (fashion and style) sense. You have let us all down Mr Di Caprio but most of all you have let yourself down. How can we take your ideas on politics seriously when you wear such ridiculous boots and combine them with that purple velour tracksuit?

My favourite part of the article was the final paragraph where an unnamed editor of a men's magazine (Dylan Jones perhaps?) told the newspaper:

"They are a monstrosity. They are like glorified slippers. You may as well shuffle down the street in your pyjamas and a pair of incontinence pants."

Disclaimer: If I've offended anyone by posting about my distaste for this particular choice of footwear, I apologise (for your bad taste, mwahaha). In all seriousness thought, if you think you wear these boots wear then let us know, you can even send us images and who knows you might be able to change my mind.

Oh god, this is really testing my salvaging skills... um, um... like the purple, just not on Mr DiCaprio? At least he's adding colour to his wardrobe? Maybe there's something tasty in that plastic bag?? Oh, I give up. Perhaps this is just his fancy dress costume for Halloween... and he's dressing as JLo from about 8 years ago... Someone please tell me this is a belated April Fools joke!

Is the thin man redefining fashion for his generation?

I only recently stumbled across the photos and musings of Bill Cunningham of The New York Times (after a reader pointed me in his direction). During my lazy weekend I have managed to catch up on the internet world and that included a visit to the New York Times Photographer's page where I came across his ideas on a new generation of men in New York. For Bill there has been an interesting evolution in men's style, with a new thin silhouette having reached the streets of New York in all its conservative force. After more than a decade where young men either cared nothing for clothes and more in frequenting the gym, or chose to dress like slobs. Now a younger generation are neat, precisely dressed and sleek are to the photographer's eye showing the future. Up to this point I am right there will Bill, nodding approvingly all the way BUT then he loses me by discussing the sobering economic period as reason why these men are dressing as they are and will continue to do so. There can be little doubt that (thankfully) there are an increased number of men who are taking an interest in men's fashion and most importantly their own style. The reasons why there has been this shift in male attitudes to their clothes is less clear. Is it really that important? Let's just continue to celebrate it.

Mad about Plaid

Hey EJ

I am huge fan of plaid at the moment and seem to see it everywhere although at times when I do see it want to burst into the Python's lumberjack song (one day soon I will just have to). I know you are a fan of the plaid shirt but are your eyes feasting on it as much as I am in recent weeks? I'm just working out a myriad ways of wearing it and have been inspired on recent style posts from the sartorialist, facehunter and DDD!

Have a look at these...

The classic - shirt worn with (slightly faded) denim jeans (image courtesy of thesartorialist)
Plaid shirt used as layering - very subtle plaid here, even with the stripes though it works! (image courtesy of facehunter)

Plaid Shirt with matching hat (the shot doesn't do it justice really, it actually looked pretty damn cool) - NB - I love the style of the guy on the left. (Image courtesy of DDD) Dressing up in Plaid - I love the hair here and red socks - not a fan of the trousers (they give him the appearance of sporting child bearing hips). Thesartorialist is finding some great shots in Stockholm (image courtesy of thesartorialist)

I think everyone in the world knows of our love for plaid. I also think H&M have been reading my mind as they have devoted a whole section of their accessories range to black & red plaid... love love love. For ages now I have been meaning to post this picture of Joe Strummer- I love the jacket and the loose teddy-boy-esque look. Come on, this hair is just beautiful.Sigh. And then this afternoon I was watching the extra features on the Science of Sleep DVD and admiring Michel Gondry's rather adorable jacket. I googled him and began to suspect that Michel may share our love...

The coat seen on the DVD- I love the suit GGM wears throughout the film but that's a different post

Michel giving a talk in New York in August 2006

Michel at a show via this blog

It's clearly a long-term love.

Sorry to hijack/distract the focus of this post... oops.

The welcome death of Indie (both music and style) as we know it

Mixtape Necklace seen on Craftlog

Two events have sparked my desire to write on the subject of indie music and its relationship with style in recent years: firstly reading a Bethan Cole article in 10 Magazine and watching the ineresting Pitchfork documentary - A Classic Under Review, on The Smiths' The Queen Is Dead (one of the very best albums of the 1980s). During the mid 80's whe the band were in their prime, indie referred to a tangible musical genre or atleast a collection of sub-genres, a distinct sensibility, an opposition to mainstream pop. Indie was naive, retro and obsessed with authenticity. Indie kids felt like they were members of a secret cult, a world away from the mainstream of Rick Astley and Stock Aitken and Waterman. In recent years indie (as it is loosely termed today) IS the mainstream and the style is on sale at every high street store imaginable. Look around you and spot how many guys are wearing checked or plaid shirts, skinny jeans and cardigans. With this in mind we should all declare the era od faux indie truly dead and celebrate something new. Music is beginning to break out of the faux indie bubble it has been in throughout the 00's, with the likes of These New Puritans, Vampire Weekend, Maps and Santogold leaving the faux indie bands like the Pigeon Detectives and Joe Lean & the Jung Jang Jong sounding lame and unconvincing. What should certainly be left behind is the faux indie skinny silhouettes for men. Put down the waistcoast and skinny jeans and try something different. Diversity and difference make for an exciting music and fashion scape.

Smartening Up

A scene we have all become so familiar with might be changing

"An invesigation into the average man's attitude to his clothes would fill a substantial treatise and still not be able to get the bottom of the riddle of why the so-called stronger sex is so happy to dress in ways that suggest weakness."

When the rain is beating down on the window and the wind whistles and haunts the streets outside there is little better than curling up with a nice cup of strong tea (with a suggestion of sugar) and a new magazine. I was fortunate enough to pick up the new issue of 10 Man earlier today which made up for the poor weather. As always the magazine is packed full of interesting articles and inspiring editorials. The above quote is from an article by Colin McDowell which explores the phenomena of how the average man has often refused to grow up, insisting on hanging onto to the cute little boy their mums never wanted to see grow up..but in recent times things are improving. McDowell questions whether the everyday scenes of sagging jeans, insanitary trainers and semi-exposed bums which have made up the very fabric of our streets for so long are now evolving into something smarter. Just like women's fashion, men's clothes go in cycles and it is now time for men to embrace formality. The new mood of formality is certainly their on the runway and designer presentation, seen in designers as diverse as Pilati's vision for YSL, Tom Ford, Raf Simons, Thom Browne and Junya Watanabe. Dressing formally in a perfectly laundered shirt, tie and well cut suit can enable a man to fulfil his birthright (whatever that might be)... certainly not something one can achieve in flip flops and 3/4 length shorts.

Mad (Men) Confession

A few weeks ago I had a discussion with someone (I forget who but they know who they are) about how there is a lack of stylish men on TV. For me stylish men are few and far between on TV shows, there were cast members of Josh Schwartz's creations who dressed well but there is no comparison with their female counterparts. However, it seems I have overlooked one show...I have a confession that might shock you all. I've never actually seen Mad Men. Over the past few months I have noticed countless articles on the series (a continuous lean has a mad men section for goodness sake!) but somehow managed to not read any of them...until now. The pick of the coverage comes from Valet who recently proclaimed "It is for men, what Sex and The City was for women—smartly written dialogue and extreme characters we secretly wish to be, all wrapped up in a super stylized package." The woman behind the slick Eisenhower-era styling is Janie Bryant (award-winning costume designer) who outfits the cast in both custom costumes and tailored vintage finds. For Bryant the days explored by the series "were such elegant times for America, when men came to the office in these gorgeous slim-cut suits. You know, that's a good look for a guy." My favourite quote from Bryant is this: "It was the attention to detail that made the era so iconic in terms of style". This for me is what makes menswear so exciting, why I write about it.

Valet offers the below pieces to help one and all get the look:

1.) Sterling silver tie bar by David Donahue, $40 at Nordstrom. 2.) Lemtosh frames, $169 (without prescription) at Moscot. 3.) Sidecar gunmetal briefcase by Dunhill, $1,240 at Dunhill, 212.753.9292. 4.) Bow tie by Band of Outsiders, $92 at Blue Bee. 5-7.) Ties, (from left) Mike & Chris, $83, Ralph Lauren, $125 and Shipley & Halmos, $92, all available at Blue Bee. 8.) Suit by John Varvatos Star USA, $795 at Nordstrom. Shirt by Theory, $125, at Nordstrom. Tie by Hickey, $115 at Hickeystyle.com. 9.) Wool hat by Rod Keenan, $360 at Barneys New York stores. 10.) Cotton handkerchiefs, $25 for a pack of seven, at Brooks Brothers.

I've since read how canny eBay sellers are now marketing their vintage clothes as "Mad Men-style", while on message boards ideas are swapped as to what to serve at a Mad Men party...how has this retro revival passed me by until now. Still, it's not just the thrill of retro, the "Mad Men effect" is apparently increasing the sales of everything...from tortoise shell glasses to fedoras, while the stars of the show skip from the pages of Vanity Fair to GQ to Vogue. The rest of my week will be spent catching up on this show and seeing if it has substance as well as style.

An afternoon flicking through 'When you're a boy'

(When you're a boy) You can wear a uniform (When you're a boy) Other boys check you out (You get a girl) These are you favourite things (When you're a boy)
David Bowie and Brian Eno, Boys Keep Swinging (1979)

Two weeks have passed since the opening of Simon Foxton's When you're a boy exhibition at the Photographer's Gallery and the closest I've got to the images is the Gallery Shop whilst seeking shelter from (one of many) Summer downpours. Alas, we just didn't have enough time to explore the exhibition space fully so rather than trudge my sodden hi tops around I just picked up the exhibition catalogue. For those of you who have not been to able to see the exhibition yet, why not make yourself a cup of tea, sit in a comfy chair and pour over the pages as I have done this afternoon and marvel at Foxton's amazing body of work...

From 'Punk', photographed by Nick Knight. Published in The Face, Feb 1986

The exhibition explores exactly what a great stylist contributes to a fashion photograph beyond selecting clothes and dressing models. Through the impressive body of work of pre-eminent menswear stylist, the exhibition traces the growth and development of men's fashion over the past three decades. Foxton has deservedly built himself a reputation as one of the leading image-makers of men’s fashion; anticipating and defining key shifts in menswear design throughout. the 80s, 90s and 00s. Foxton's interest in masculinity, ethnicity and sexuality are captured in images shot by photographers and longtime collaborators Alistair McLellan, Nick Knight and Jason Evans. Foxton's contribution to fashion photography goes way beyond the production process that precede a shoot, and towards offering a benchmark of taste; it is a singular world view. In combination with longstanding photographic partners (Knight, Evans, McLellan) who each bring their own specific perspectives to bear on the work produced, Foxton's unique perspective inspires discrete and different bodies of work.

Left: From 'Punk', photographed by Nick Knight. Published in The Face, Feb 1986. Right: From 'War' photographed by Nick Knight. Version published in Big, No.18, 1987

Elements of the styling practice that Foxton had been responsible for popularising in the 1980s - street casting, customisation, inveigling non-fashion accessories into shoots, using 'model's' own clothing - were crucial in shaping the identity of my favourite magazines whilst growing up and beyond. Foxton began styling for i-D in 1984, at a time when the visual language of fashion photography was still being established. Since then he has contributed to my favourite magazines and more including The Face, Arena, Arena Homme Plus, Vogue Hommes International, Details, W, GQ Style and Big Magazine. Without his work, the magazines that we know and love would certainly not be the same.

From 'Strictly', photgrpahed by Jason Evans. Published in i-D, July 1991

There is a great Penny Martin interview with Simon Foxton in his garden shed featured inside the catalogue, below are a few of my favourite questions and answers...

Penny Martin: How did you make the shift from designing to styling?

Simon Foxton: When I had my own little design company, I found the whole process of from imagining the clothing to the realisation and production such a long, laborious and tedious journey. The idea that I could come up with ways of dressing people to make them look different and for it to happen almost immediately was like a big light going on in my head. I thought "I don't have to deal with factories in the East End, or order buttons. I can actually come up with ideas and make them happen within a week."

From 'Hey there fancy pants', photographed by Jason Evans. Published in i-D, May 2004

Penny Martin: If not money, what do you think still motivates you after twenty five years?

Simon Foxton: It is only when you stop and look at it, like now, with doing an exhibition, that you think "God, I have been doing this for twenty five years! Why?" I don't know. It is partly because it is fun. The commercial things can be tough but the editorial is usually great: having a freehand to make images. Once that whole character is there, it's almost like giving birth. I've created this thing and it's like "wow, I've not seen that before, a person dressed in that way." That is enough for me.

From 'Atlas', photographed by Alasdair McLellan. Published in Arena Homme Plus, AW 2003/04

With wit, sophistication and irreverence, Foxton continues to redefine perceptions of masculinity with his uniquely thrilling and fantastical portrayals of men. During his twenty five year career, Foxton has evolved a highly recognisable and much emulated approach to creating fashion photography. An approach which sees him balance a deep respect for traditional men’s fashion design with an injection of street culture, popular imagery and much needed humour. He is quite simply the quintessential menswear stylist, consistently progressing men’s fashion and truly deserves this exhibition. If you are in town anytime from today until October 17th, you have to make a trip to this exhibition...if you've already been, please let us know what you thought.

Selection of shots published in i-D, unpublished work and webcasts on SHOWstudio.com

Les mêmes lunettes

In a slight change to our normal posting, I thought I'd present you with a new feature: Style Blogger Glasses Trendwatch 2009 (note: may not be a regular feature)

The classic: 'why are you still taking photos of us' look

Some of you may know that we recently met up with Thomas Wong and his lovely fiance Sharon in Paris. Stood side by side, I couldn't help noticing that Steve and Thom had something in common. Later on (sadly I don't have a photo, but maybe Steve will be so kind as to provide one) I noticed that they shared this with another friend of ours. That's right: tortoiseshell, thick framed glasses are taking over. This may be highly contagious. Watch out for the tell-tale symptoms in your local men's fashion blogger.

(Additional: this man had rather nice shoes so I just had to sneak a shot. Click to enlarge and then tell me the make.)

Style Spy at Amsterdam Fashion Week

Susie was invited out to Amsterdam Fashion Week so has spent the last few days in the Dutch capital. As well as her own official business and blogging of the event she has also donned her mac, dark glasses and trilby as she style spied for us. Her solid recommendation was NON by Kim's SS10 collection titled Inventorum Natura...

Founded in 2007, the Dutch designer Kim Bakker is a new find for me. Looking through her first few collections she mutates the archetypes of men’s garments to push and explore the boundaries of menswear. This third collection of Kim Bakker takes us in to the wonderfully weird realm of flesh eating plants. The collection reflects parts of this world, the agthered constructions and wired seams give the garments an organic and clean cut feel. An interesting balance is created between lightweight and textured materials achieving fluid layered silhouettes and a feeling of motion. Now, it might be because I am a little sleep deprived at the moment (a combination of late nights, howling at the moon because of Susie's absence and a few too many drinks) but I am most intrigued by the textured tights worn under the shorts. Of course we have seen Ricardo Tisci experiment with this styling for the past few seasons but it is interesting to see quite so many of his peers play with this idea, Kim Bakker pulls it off most admirably here.

When you're a boy opens

Iconic Foxton images taken from FTape article.

I had to leave London on Wednesday for a couple of days to pay my respects to my old nan who passed away at the tender age of ninety five. The outside world unfortunately didn't stop with me and I missed out the chance to be shot by the Sartorialist as part of a Burberry promotion (there should be further opportunities if I follow the flow chart) along with the opening of Simon Foxton's When you're a boy exhibition at the Photographer's Gallery (fortunately Susie did and she has confirmed what I thought, it is amazing!). The exhibition celebrates men in fashion and is the first exhibitions to focus on the work of a stylist as opposed to a photographer.

Images from The Face Feb 1986 shot by Nick Knight... oh The Face how I miss you...

With a career spanning three decades, Foxton has built himself a reputation as a leading image-maker of men’s fashion; anticipating and defining key shifts in menswear design over this period. Foxton's interest in masculinity, ethnicity and sexuality are captured in images shot by photographers and longtime collaborators Alistair Mclellan, Nick Knight and Jason Evans.

After graduating from St. Martin's College of Art and Design in 1983, he set up his own design label, Bazooka. Foxton began styling for i-D in 1984, at a time when the visual language of fashion photography was still being established. Since then he has contributed to our favourite magazines including The Face, Arena, Arena Homme Plus, Vogue Hommes International, Details, W, GQ Style and Big Magazine. Without his work, the magazines that we know and love would certainly not be the same. Foxton evolved a highly recognisable and much emulated approach to creating fashion photography which balances a deep respect for traditional men’s fashion design with an injection of street culture, popular imagery and much needed humour. He is quite simply the quintessential menswear stylist, consistently progressing men’s fashion.

Simon Foxton has been keeping sketchbooks since 1981, here is a look inside one of them...

Although I missed out on the opening night, I did however get the chance to ask the great stylist a question, albeit through the wonderful Fred Butler. Fred asked for question contributions via her twitter and I made sure that I didn't miss my chance. The full interview can and should be read here but for now, here is the question I asked along with the answer:

"Ive read that you keep a box under your bed for inspiration containing tear outs from magazines. How do you formulate your ideas from these scraps?"
I can now confirm that this is the case. Simon doesn't believe in stacking up smelly old back issues and prefers to make a more considered and concise reference bank. If an image resonates with him, it winds up ripped out and glued in. These scrapbooks are a personal vehicle to consolidate his own vision, affirming his taste and form a reminder of ideas and direction. Curator Penny Martin got involved from trawling this primary starting point, all the way through to ordering the space at The Photographer's Gallery. The two of them rooted through the archive boxes and Penny assertively assisted Simon to weed out the cream of the crop for this first show. According to Simon there is a great more to be exhibited but it could not be accommodated this time.

Another look inside on his scrapbooks.

Dazed Digital recently published a nice interview with Simon and included some amazing images of the stylists shed where his ideas are formulated. I need a shed just like this, the quality of blog posts would surely improve if I had my own inspiration filled hideway...

If you are in town anytime from today until October 17th, you have to make a trip to this exhibition. Now that I am back in London (for the afternoon atleast) I will make a trip down.

A closer look at BUCK's 'Of the Mountains' editorial

The leading image from 'Of the mountains'

There has been a distinct lack of inspirational editorials in the latest issues of my favourite magazines so it is great to see so many strong online offerings. For the latest round of editorials over on Buckstyle, the fashion team each picked a major trend for the season each. Fashion Director Elliott James Sainsbury chose ‘mountaineering’ and is my early favourite. Of The Mountains features pieces by the likes of Omar Kashoura, JW Anderson, Woolrich Woolen Mills and Christopher Raeburn alongside highlight pieces from the high street and vintage shop finds to create some of the strongest yet attainable looks around. As we are online buddies with Elliott, I couldn't resist a closer look at the editorial and who better to run through the inspirations and designer picks than the man himself...

Key pieces: On the left, Parachute hoody by Christopher Raeburn, trousers by J.W. Anderson. On the right, hooded top and jogging bottoms by Topman Design. Vintage cap and small bag (worn as necklace) from Beyond Retro. Leather compass by J.W. Anderson,

On the inspiration:
"It seems there's a lot of 'mountaineering' style about at the minute. Inspired by that mix of sport and street, as worn so well by people like John Skelton, Way Perry, Kyle from goodhood. I also adore workwear, and think it all slots together. Juan and I had been meeting for about a month beforehand discussing what we'd like to do, he is very technical with lighting and was inspired by the Dunhill ads with Peter Saville in them (please check out, they are amazing) and an Oscar Wilde quote about being in an asylum. We liked that idea of pushing against walls, unnatural poses. We wanted a very detailed and busy background, complex styling... it took a lot of planning, each pose, the lighting and the clothes were very specifically chosen, each shot/look has a sort of coded meaning... for me it is about inner strength, determination and an internal metaphorical mountain. Clothes as armour, tooling yourself up, loading it on and fortifying yourself against the world... it was important to not be too literal as initially I thought of having it in a forest, but inside gave a totally unexpected feel. I researched explorers like Mallory etc. and loads of images to check that my notions were correct."

Key pieces: On the left, shirt by Oliver Spencer, cropped knit by Makin Jan Ma and necklace by JW Anderson,. On the right, plaid shiort and waistcoat by Woolrich Woolen Mills , satchel backpack by Harris Elliott for b Store.

On the colours:

"I wanted the colours to be a bit 'sick', to push it a bit further... hence the neon backpacks with a navajo shirt, pink with khaki. For me the most important thing is the little things, incoprorating the model's keys, strapping belts across the chest etc."

On the location:

"We shot it in the RIBA building in Portland Place (I think?), it was a really smooth day. The model Laurie was fantastic and is in a band, we had a great team on the day."

Key pieces: On the left, anorak by Christopher Raeburn, backpack and cable necklace by JW Anderson, gloves by Topman. On the right, beige coat and plastic bolero by Omar Kashoura, navajo shirt from Beyond Retro.

On the designers:
"Nigel Cabourn's clothes are fascinating, good to see such an icon coming back. I love the straps and backpacks of Topman Design A/W 09- the green top is actually almost identical to the ones below, n fact it was the key label for the shoot really as each piece was so perfect. Woolrich, Oliver Spencer are that whole workwear thing... I wanted to get that clear Omar Kashoura jacket in as I knew i wanted it to be a futuristic take on mountaineering. Part of what is cool right now, part what men could wear. Christopher Raeburn is very interesting, one to watch."

Picture Postcard - Stockholm Streetstyle

I am always on the look out for interesting street style sites and have been impressed by the combinations and choice of subjects over on Stockholm Street Style recently... it might just have something to do with some girl I know being featured. Stockhom StreetS tyle offer some great men's street style as well, just look at this chap below...

Robin was recently featured looking very much like he stumbled of a slightly more causual Lanvin runway... but pretty much wearing a Stockholm uniform with a twist - "I have a shirt from acne, coat from Whyred, shoes from acne, trousers from Whyred, and a cap from Propp." For me the look has been transformed by the flower and it reminded me of EJ's Valentines Day suggestion. It is such an easy accessory and one most of us (me included) just don't do enough. I challenge you all to take a flower from your garden (if you don't have one try one of your neighbours - beware of dogs) or even from your Mum's vase at home and pin the finest bloom you can find to your lapel. Let us know how you get on! I will upload my shots on Monday.

Turning up (in) the heat

There was a time when I would only contemplate wearing boot cut jeans...thankfully those adolescent 90s days are well and truly behind me. That said I've only recently started experimenting with trouser length, possibly inspired by the shrunken suits of Thom Browne. As the days are getting warmer (but alas currently no sunshine in London at least) I decided to break that old Victorian taboo of showing off my ankles. (as a Google search addict I naturally googled 'Victorian ankles' and I came across this site - man the Internet is a wonderfully weird place)

My experimentation was not merely in the laboratory (my girlfriend's room) but I also took it to the streets of London town. I teamed up my sexy ankles with battered Swear shoes, Unconditional Bibbed T shirt under a Made in England sheer short sleeve shirt completed with Prada glasses and American Apparel black vinyl duffel bag. Please see exhibit A below

When the weather cools down I might even take this further and appease any remaining Taboo holders by wearing colourful socks, in a similar way to this chap featured some time ago on the Sartorialist and the thrifty Elliot Sainsbury featured on the fashion156 blog.

Picture Postcard: Men in skirts

Dearest EJ

We have been meaning to talk about the interplay between the social constructs of masculinity with men's fashion and style for some time now but however many posts we draft, we ultimately do not know where to begin...with this in mind why not start with a picture postcard?

To get the ball rolling, let's go straight for the jugular and start a little discussion on skirts. I read a funny piece in 10 Men by Dereck Blasberg talking about men in skirts and his own experiences showing off his calves. He opened the article by admitting that he idolises Marc Jacobs, so much so in fact that he would do anything he told him to, including standing in a chemist wearing a skirt. For him donning a skirt initially feels like waving a flag, declaring to the world that he is gay but Jacobs pushed him to try out this taboo garment. Of course, for Spring/Summer 09 there was a handful of designers who worked the skirt, including Comme des Garcons (seemingly a constant fixture each season), Number (N)ine, Gaultier, McQueen, Owens, and Yohji Yamamoto but he, like most men needed to see someone other than an eighteen year old pretty boy wearing one. I am reminded of Fantastic Man's recent Men in Skirts editorial which styled the skirt and presented it in a much more 'butch' way with 'real' men proudly display their legs. It certainly was refreshing to see a different type of chap wearing a skirt but I wonder if it led to any copy cat adventures? Are there any readers out there who dared to bare?

So how did the 10 chap fare, I hear you ask!? Well, after getting over the initial feelings of interpretation he grew to love the feeling of freedom afforded to him by the flowing fabric. The love affair was short lived the following day however, when he fell over. This embarrassment induced the realisation that initial liberation afforded to him by the skirt was short lived and actually made him feel like 'he did not want to go to the circus ever day.' In fact, as he was helped up he was told "Well, if you're not Scottish, you're just a guy in drag" and I know most people would agree with that.

Over the coming weeks I want to explore society's attitudes to various items of men's clothing and the role that hegemonic notions of masculinity play in shifting style over time but for now I am off to Kent for a weekend by the sea and old folk. Will I be wearing a skirt in the Spring sunshine? Not bloody likely, I'll be wearing my 'safest', most acceptable items of clothing to avoid name calling, finger pointing and even violence. Have I ever told you how a mini brawl erupted after a few hoodlums took offence at the colour of my striped jumper? If not, oh well, another time...

Have a great weekend

Steve

Honey, I styled the kids

Do you remember Wayne Szalinski from the late 80s and 90s? I doubt many that of the stylish young chaps featured below do because they are far too young. For the benefit of those who don't then, Szalinski was just your average 'nutty' scientist who worked on top secret machines and accidentally (somewhat carelessly) tested his latest laser beam contraption on his own children (more than once). It seems the hilarious scientist has diverted his attention from shrinking and blowing up his own kids and has duly flicked the 'style' switch whilst aiming his laser at children indiscriminately. If you think I've gone crazy please bear with me because I do have a point hidden somewhere amongst my confused ramblings. This week the best dressed people I've seen online and beyond have been less than 5ft tall and I am not talking about isolated sightings of a re-styled Danny DeVito....my attention has been frequently diverted to the youth of today.

Not a DS or action figure in sight...a typical scan from Vogue Enfants from Fashion Screen

I have suffered sartorial envy towards a toddler before at the hands of this mini Parisian captured by Tommy but these past few days the sheer volume of styled little folk have left me dazed, confused and strangely envious. In short I am close to being a man beaten by someone I really should not be. My week began with me learning exactly what goes on inside the pages of Vogue Enfants (courtesy of The Fashionisto). The well styled editorials depict a number of those whipper snappers in somewhat alarmingly mature environments. In terms of the clothes themselves I'd happily wear most of it and this combined with the fake tattoos and faux driving shots makes the whole thing very, very strange indeed. In truth I was freaked out a little by it all. I compared what I was like at that age...and remembered that I was happiest in my Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle t-shirt initially and then progressed to Arsenal football kits and little else. When I wanted to look more mature I went to the shop and naively 'puffed' on candy cigarettes and applied the Superman tattoo to my arm. But damn this publication and the evidence below suggests that kids grow up fast these days.

Two straw fedoras belonging to two stylish prepubescents

Just as I recovered from the shock of Vogue Enfants I encountered two well style prepubescents over on the Sartorialist and Facehunter wearing strikingly similar ensembles including matching straw fedoras (something not lost on Thom either). The little star captured by Mr Schuman has already generated a great deal of attention amongst commenters (155 and counting) and the general consensus is that he is adorable. The cut of his jacket and length of cuff is spot on. Not only is he extremely well turned out but he knows how to pose far better than me! I need to pull my finger out, I'm not ready yet to beaten so easily by those so young. The slightly older chap snapped by Facehunter once again out dresses me and seems to posses more attitude.

Whilst on the subject on being out styled by the 'small people' I would like to cast your minds back to a little GQ feature on an eight year old. Thom first brought Arlo Weiner to my attention back in March whilst showcasing the eight year old's style and declaring "Arlo Weiner, son of Mad Men creator Matt Weiner, is simply one of the most stylish people, anywhere, of any age." I have to agree with him. Thom subsequently threatened to give up the style game when he encountered Luca and Daniel via the NY Times and again these boys are depressingly well put together.

I am only twenty five but feel like a past his prime Father gasping for air whilst watching his Son beat him at yet another sport. What is happening? Is Wayne Szalinski really to blame for this sustained influx of stylish nippers? What do you make of these little folk, are you in awe like me whilst finding it all a little creepy and wrong? The fact that I am being out styled by someone who could well still wet the bed is not what scares me but rather the thought of what these kids could become when they grow up! I will leave you digest this fear inducing thought whilst admiring their respective getups...

What say we settle this on the runway...?

The clever people over at Getkempt ran an interesting article about the battle of the Atlantic mounting and no more apparent are the two ideologies more apparent than in Tom Ford and Thom Browne. DNR thinks the differences in aesthetic between these two nations could turn into a full blown war - "Menswear is in the midst of a British-American crossover, and nowhere is the transatlantic trend more evident than in the contrasting assortment of fall furnishings." If a war was to break out whose side would you be on?

On the Thom Browne camp Gillian Koenig of DNR states - "Designers like Thom Browne are leading the way in laid-back American sensibility, injecting the dress shirt with a casual-chic, slightly preppy demeanor." The man behind the shrunken suit is certainly a showman and has always been his own best advertisement—literally. A Hollywood actor-turned-superstar tailor, he presents his high-concept menswear in overtly theatrical fashion shows. Most people have fallen in love with Browne’s slim lapels and slightly cropped, skinny trousers in the wake of the disheveled “business casual” trend that has swept menswear in recent years. I love the way that he has tweaked a very Brooks brothers aesthetic, exaggerating it to great effect and then sell it back to them. Claudio Del Vecchio, Chairman and CEO of Brooks Brothers, felt that “Thom Browne’s brilliant eye, his ability to foreshadow the market and offer a special look will bring a new dimension to Brooks Brothers.” Here are Browne's Rules For Wearing Suits which makes for an interesting read. All In all Browne’s aesthetic is extreme which leads to it striking a chord with people...good or bad. You either love the cropped pants or you hate them. You adore the shrunken jacket or you despise it. I'm a fan of the later but not really the former....

Stylish Swedes pop punks The Hives have traded in their Vegas lounge act look and are channeling Thom Browne for their recent effort, The Black and White Album

On Tom Ford's camp Koenig states "Dramatic dress shirts featuring British cutaway collars and large checks in bold colors are becoming fashionable at the hands of designers such as Tom Ford". Tom Ford might have dressed Bond but surely he is his best model. Ford’s clothes come across so well, precisely because they’ve been road tested and perfected by the man himself, who just happens to be one of the most stylish men out there. Tom Ford is all about personalized luxury, reinvented age old tailoring for the modern man. Suits, shirts, and shoes may be made to measure. Leather goods are crafted in small workshops, and finished according to the owner's needs. Knitwear, evening clothing, and even sporting wear can be commissioned in personalized colour and fit. What Tom Ford does best are timeless, classic looks combined with a dash of modern reinvention and rejuvenation. For an interesting article on Mr Ford I would suggest checking out SavoirVivre New York's musing on the subject...he put the matter far better than I could.

Tom Ford stylishly relaxing

Which one of these two heavywights are you standing behind? I'm going to be like Switzerland on this one and perch myself on the fence as you lot fight it out....