Reading... N.E.P.S

With N.E.P.S., modern Irish accessories brand Stighlorgan present a love letter to a material very close to their proud hearts, Donegal nepped yarn. The absorbing publication explores the infamous yarn with  a combination of stunning full bleed photography and seductive stories that instantly transport the reader to the North West of Ireland where all of the brand's soft accessories are made.

Donegal yarn is so often imitated but the true textile is still made in the place of its namesake. Like many of us, the team at Stighlorgan feel strongly about the preservation of this original art and I'm sure that this publication will melt a few more hearts and stir further passion. It is not just that the speckled yarn is indigenous to the area, these intricately prepared woolen yarns represent the area. The spectral speckles reflect the colours that appear on the rolling hills, they talk of the communities that dot the landscape and it is Donegal's heritage. As it shows glimpses of the masterful processes behind it and talks of the stories that make it, N.E.P.S is a celebration of Donegal yarn.

Having been so fortunate to experience the process of Harris Tweed first hand, this document and in particular Eoin O Conaill's factory photography leaves me itching to travel to Donegal.

Reading... Vintage Menswear

Formed in 2007, the destination showroom and one of a kind resource that is The Vintage Showroom, was the realised dream of two fanatical enthusiasts of vintage clothing. Founders, Douglas Gunn and Roy Luckett, spend countless months of every year trawling through dilapidated barns, warehouses and outhouses all around the world in order to add to their vast collection of rarities. They enjoy the hunt, the romance, and the deliberate utility found in each garment. Their shared unquenchable thirst for sartorial artifacts has led to The Vintage Showroom becoming one of the leading resources for vintage menswear in the UK, with the ever growing archive covering the early mid 20th century and specialising in international work, military and sports clothing, classic English tailoring and country wear.

Whilst their own inviting Earlham Street store continues to receive accolades and awards, their definitive collection has become a must see destination for fashion designers and stylists from around the world. It is is available to purchase or hire from as preferred, however no photography or sketching is permitted. Appointments are necessary and limited. However, last month a selection of the archive was published in the title ‘Vintage Menswear – A Collection From The Vintage Showroom.’ Joined by freelance style writer Josh Sims, Gunn and Lockett offer unprecedented access to a rare collection in a beautifully presented hard back. No appointment necessary.

Featuring one hundred and thirty of the most influential examples of twentieth century European, American and Asian utilitarian tailoring and design, the book is divided in to the three subsections of sportswear, workwear and militaria and covers everything from 1940s flying jackets to polar exploration suits, Phantom Racing jackets to Native American Varsity jackets and Japanese peasants Boro jackets to vintage French denims. These are items that reflect real lives of real people. With holes and patches they each tell a story. They are precious and genuine artifacts of what men wore in the early 20th century to work, to war, and to play. Thanks to the stunning photography each selection showcases the designs in concept, shape and cut. Below are just a few of the pages that caught my eye...

In addition to being a valuable resource and inspiration, 'Vintage Menswear' is a book to get utterly lost in.

Reading... Hector

Publications often strive to craft a distinguishable personality, a voice that is easily identifiable amongst the incessant chattering heard on any newsagent's shelves but few dedicate each issue to an entirely different person. Each periodical published by East London menswear establishment Hostem is named after a different man, explores a different identity and therefore its pages adopt an altered persona. The sensitively curious Sebastian that we met in the inaugural issue is pushed in to the shadows and in his place steps the much darker and distorted Hector. Hector is an erudite activist concerned with arts, politics, and parity. This week we've acquainted ourselves with this alluring and menacing character.
  

Hector bares himself with a defaced poster, a documentation of the French presidential campaign by artist Pascal Fellonnea. Persoanl highlights include interviews with Maurizo Amadei from atelier design house ma+, Hermann Nitsch, visuals by Blommers/Schumm, work from artists Koen Hauser and Ruth van Beek, photographer David Moore and art critic Julian Stallabrass. It's a pleasure to get to know him...

Magazines in the spotlight... LAW

Regular readers will know that I'm always on the hunt for challenging, exciting and inspiring publications. As incessant whispers of 'print is dying' echo around the libraries and bookstores of our minds, there are countless examples that should be cherished and flaunted in the faces of the prophets of doom. John Holt's LAW is one example. As soon as I picked up the first issue at Goodhood (on the recommendation of the store's very own Kyle Stewart) I knew that I had discovered a title with a refreshing point of view. For its editor Holt, style is everywhere, all you have to do is look. This limited edition bi-annual magazine revels in revealing what others miss as it serves to document the ups and downs of the beautiful everyday. In its accomplished debut, it paused to shine the spotlight on a patchwork of everyday eye catchers including passionate shop owners, matchmakers, tailors, brand devotees, dilapidated funparks and cursed football kits. Weighing in at just fifty three pages it managed to navigate my past and present with skill. My head was not the only one turned by its charms. The issue ended up being stocked in an enviable assortment of stores from Brighton to London and then on to Paris and Hong Kong. Building on this success the title returns with a pulse quickening sophomore issue.

"The magazine will always tell the adventure of the search to describe what LAW looks like," explains Holt in its Introduction. "Perhaps we may never find the perfect image but in this issue I believe we have sailed very close." Holt and his team revel in uncovering forgotten objects, styles and individuals that are overlooked and documenting how they hold a certain special something. In their second issue they bounce from British nightlife, shopkeepers, Fifa, forgotten flags, Happy Shopper Hair Gel and a Suede Head. For me, LAW is a window to the world of the past, the current and undercurrent. It is a cross section of people, places and objects that may first appear disparate but combine to form one aesthetic. The bi-annual shines the spotlight on facets of Britain and localised symbols that would ordinarily not be known outside of these shores. Lets press our noses to the glass of this issue and see... 

John Holt meets photographer Stuart Griffiths and talks about his time in Madchester, Northern Ireland and Brighton.

A collection of our misspent youth. Fifa 1995-12. How many of you have played them all?

A visit to Edgware Road's R. Aguis Scooters

An editorial with the twelve year old (Arsenal fan) cover star, Fred Grant wearing Brutus Trimfit, Christopher Shannon and Sadie Williams.

Jake in a patchwork bomber by Christopher Shannon.

Sparkling jumper by Sadie Williams.

My favourite feature. Jack Cassidy meets property developer David Rosen and discuss the Suedehead look and share a few pieces from his archive. From Dr. Martens to classic Bass Weejun loafers, the look became softer over time.

Beauty in the everyday right through to the back page. LAW's pebble dash print of the debut issue is replaced with a confetti bush.
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"Our vow to you is to make this and every issue as beautiful and thought provoking as possible," Holt declares in the issue. It is and it does. It is its ability to archive real characters and document a cacophony of British traces as they shift, evolve and disappear from our surroundings which makes this title special. For me, LAW is destined to be treasured on book shelves.

Weekend Reading... Paszport!

One of the few perks of being ill these past couple of weeks is that I've had Euro 2012 to keep me company. I didn't miss a ball being kicked during the fascinating group stage. From the nervy Poland v Greece game to the Quarter Final prize winning nod from the now fuzzy head of Rooney. Some games have been more entertaining than others but I've enjoyed every minute. Joining me on the sofa has been the tournament fanzine Paszport! The fruits of a delightful one-two (the likes of which Xavi and Iniesta would watch on in admiration) between much celebrated creative agency Mother London and our good friends from The Rig Out.

Launched to commemorate enthusiastic travels throughout Poland and Ukraine, Paszport is a one-off fanzine that pays homage to the classics before it that have been excitedly flicked through on journeys home. It is a smile inducing and thought provoking publication. With contributions from Casuals author Phil Thornton, one of our favourite journalists Jonathan Wilson, Perry Boys author Ian Hough, poet Mike Duff and not forgetting considered additions from a diverse team of writers from far and wide, it is a squad packed packed with talent. It is a publication that will be enjoyed far longer than the trophy lift. Below is just a few pages that caught my eye...

The publication is available in the usual suspects of Oi Polloi, Present and Mother London.

Weekend Reading... ARTICLE

After many months of whispers flavoured with excitement, hopes and daydreams, the inaugural issue of ARTICLE landed on my desk this week. Following two years of planning and development, the handsome publication became a reality thanks to potential readers pledging their support with Unbound.  Intrigued by Creative Director and Fashion Director Kenny Ho's  passion and support for all things British, the growing community put their money where their interest was and a new bi-annual was born.

"We aim to share the things which we believe make Britain great: art, design, culture, entertainment and contemporary men’s fashion, explored from unique, intensely personal perspectives by our team of writers, photographers and creatives," Kenny Ho explains. A seemingly simple aim that the first issue sets off to explore in earnest. Whereas John Holt's excellent LAW mag depicts a neglected, gritty, dark soap opera of an urban landcape, Kenny Ho along with art director Rosy Tsai choose to examine a very different side of British culture but manage to do so in an equally refreshing way. Over one hundred sixteen page of  advert free, design rich pages, its debut journey sets off on a Tweed Run, enjoys a tea break with renowned tailor Timothy Everest to hear his take on the future of menswear, delves deep in to the intricate work of Bermondsey-based leather artisan Oliver Ruuger and finds time to collaborate with artist and architect Heidi Locher on a series of evocative photographic images. Dip your toe its inviting waters below...

Right from the very first page, ARTICLE sets off down its own well cultivated path. The launch issue is a considered and well researched trip through British craftsmanship, design and culture. This is only the beginning.