Looking back with the help of Penthouse

First things first, we hope you all had a very Merry Festive Break! Secondly, as we prepare to bid farewell to 2008 our thoughts are often preoccupied by the promise of a New Year (I was reliably informed by Charlie Brooker that they will call this new year 2009...to be honest with you I'm a little disappointed, my fingers were crossed for it to be named Steve...the Year of Steve has a much better ring to it) but lets be different. We often look forward at this stage in the year but one of my Christmas presents has helped me challenge this usual festive occurrence and I've decided to swivel my neck owl like and look back...way back. The presents in question were two old issues of Penthouse - The Magazine for Men (from 1968 and 1969 respectively). and unfortunately, it is safe to say that they don't make them like that anymore. The content is wonderfully diverse, for example articles include; an interview with Steve Abrams who champions the campaign to legalise cannabis, The Promiscuity Myth which discusses how homosapiens have always 'gone in for' marriage, The Do-It-Yourself Capitalist, an interview with Otto Von Habsburg who was once heir to the Austro-Hungrarian empire and became a political author and lecturer. I would love to unearth a magazine which covered such an eclectic mix of issues today (with the odd shot of a natural breast or two thrown in as well) but for now I will just have to settle for Monocle but will write to Tyler Brûlé in the New Year requesting a few bare breasts. As well as great articles there are a couple of interesting editorials, not to mention a few classic advertisements which will provide inspiration for the coming year.

Apologies for the poor image quality (I really need to invest in a scanner)...

Skin Game is my favourite editorial and sees a wonderful combination of monochrome, smoky /soft focus shots with sheepskin jackets and a pigskin suede trench coat. Accompanying the imagery was the following blurb which seems hell bent on ensuring the readers knows where the materials came from...Button out the cold this winter in sheepskin and suede. Bulk has been sheared away with body-shaping and closer-fitting cut. There are many exciting new colours this season, too. After all, once the original owner has died there is no reason why its and coat shouldn't be dyed, too - makes it more individual for the next owner. As for wear and warmth, that remains built-in. Lasts a lifetime-and it did for the previous owners.

I've never seen this many buckles in one shot...

Something Afoot sees an organised pile of varied shoes used to breathe new life into the old adage that 'you can tell a gentlemen by his shoes' by suggesting that you can now (well since 1968) tell that the gentlemen is in fashion. I adore this double page spread but rather than inspire me to put my best foot forward, I have to agree with the title that there is something afoot and it seems to be the penchant of double buckles and too much tanned leather...

There were just sooo many poses to choose from but here are two of my favourite looks

Get in the picture with ICI Fibres depicts Seth Cohen's style icon in an album of leisurewear made from a combination of relatively new fandangled fabrics ranging from bri-nylon, bri-nova and crimplene...but I love the poses more than anything else and will certainly try a few in my upcoming style posts...

So, rather than let your thoughts get distracted by the promises of tomorrow why not take some time out and have a look back at the past. You don't have to look at old porn magazines but I would certainly recommend it!

A festive weekend with b Magazine

"The b family is not just fashion people and the store is not just for fashion people, it has a wider ranging reach than that" affirms Dal Chodha whilst tucking in to a Cinnamon bun in Soho's Nordic Bakery. "With all of the labels that it sells and has sold, none of them are pure fashion brands and that is precisely why the magazine isn't pure fashion, it just wouldn't make any sense if it were. It is a snapshot on how the b store customer lives. It is a mood board of their interests as much as it is ours" he smiles.  We've met to discuss the fifth issue of b magazine and toast the tenth anniversary of b Store.

Now, as readers of this blog you should all know that London’s b store has long been a mecca for contemporary design. Whilst nurturing some of the best design talent in the capital and beyond, b store have been merging art, fashion and design seamlessly for ten years now. When Jason and Dal talked to b's very own Matthew Murphy and Kirk Beatie about the store as they first mooted the idea of a magazine it soon became clear that it contrary to its name, the b store is more than just four walls of retail.  They described it as a world, the b store world and the eponymous publication explores this ever evolving and fascinating realm. As b store celebrates its tenth anniversary and moves in to its new home on Kingly Street, the fifth issue of b magazine reflects but also looks forward and, as seemingly with anything b related, excites.

"It is going out amongst a sea of titles. I used to love buying bi-annuals and I still do to some extent but I do feel that many are saying the same things to me" reveals Chodha with a discernible air of disappointment before defiantly declaring, "for Jason and I, it just makes us work harder. We want to make something that isn't like the other titles out there in what we cover." As with each visit to the institution of retail that is b Store, there is the chance to discover a new designer, an exhibition, a magazine or even just a moment when you talk to them and leave with something new. You can always expect to be surprised and the magazine echoes this spirit wonderfully. Just as the store has always been more than just a physical space, b magazine is more than a bi-annual.

From the first moment I picked up the debut issue of the store's publication back in September, it was clear that is was not your average fashion magazine. Created by long term collaborator and collection stylist Jason Highes and editor Dal Chodha, the title exposes the wider b Store ethos; passion in design and integrity in individuality with a knowing nod to more sartorial affairs. It sells ideas and it sells information. Editorially driven, b magazine looks at creatives from a wonderfully unique angle. It is a title to immerse yourself in and always is a pleasure to thumb.

From Chodha's interview with designer Martino Gamper.

Highlights of the issue include the Observer’s Eleanor Morgan highlighting the restaurateurs and meeting chefs behind some of London’s most exciting eating experiences from noodles made by foot in Soho to pigs heads in Shoreditch and Dal Chodha talking to the affable furniture designer Martino Gamper in his Hackney studio about his crusade for good mass-market design, while also stealing a look at Nancy Rohde’s chamomile lawn and Ally Capellino’s grape vines. However, the real gem is Ben Purdue's look at the origins of and continued evolution of the store.

A snapshot of b Store included in 'A Decade Under The Influence'

"It was really difficult at first to think about how we could cover the tenth anniversary. We never want the issue to feel like an advert for b store and thankfully people haven't see it like that. It has never been that and we didn't want to start on the fifth issue. It was difficult to dedicate such a big portion of the features to this subject without it being 'Oh, how amazing is the b store!?', immediately we knew it couldn't be something that I could write so we brought the lovely Ben Purdue in. Also, the people that we quoted had to people that we had never spoken to previously, we could very easily get a quote from Peter or from Christophe, but it was important to hear from the likes of Roksanda Ilinic, Mandi Lennard and Maureen Paley."

Christophe Lemaire gives thanks and celebrates the anniversary

Ben Perdue's reflective piece on a decade under the influence of b is packed full of choice quotes from friends and family of the store but there is one in particular line that is still bouncing around in my brain. Designer Roksanda Ilinic uttered, "They were and still are a laboratory for creative design and spirit." This simple line rings true and cuts to the very core of what makes b so special. PR legend and former neighbour of the store agrees by adding, "The b store customer was a real person, and it was about a respect for good design - particularly the new wave of designers coming through." b have always been ambassadors for and facilitators of young talent. Much in the same way as the boys have championed emerging talent on the rails of each incarnation of the store, Hughes and Chodha showcase this same spirit within the pages of b magazine. By shooting the likes of (deep breath) Casely-Hayford, Agi&Sam, Matthew Miller, Mohsin Ali, One Nine Zero Six, Satyenkumar and Christophe Lemaire to name but a small selection, the editorials are unlike any other title.

A Casely-Hayford blazer, top by Kye and shorts by Champion from 'The Luxury Gap' editorial shot by Laurence Ellis and with fashion by Jason Hughes.

"Our stockists pages is incredible because it really is so different from every other stockist page. It is about new-ness. We love looking for new things but not new fangled things that are short-lived. We'd never do a trends page for example. Casely-Hayford, Stephan Schneider, Christophe Lemaire are all labels that the store either sells or will never sell but nevertheless like. We purposely feature brands that you won't see in every other title. Jason has a brilliant way of pulling in these labels that you never think of, or would see them in that way. Designers that lend to us really enjoy seeing the results of what we do. Raimund for example, whose profile is building, is stunned when Jason styles his designs because he always shoots them in a way that surprises him and the Japanese socks by Ayame that grace the cover, certain people in fashion wear them but its about seeing them in a different light, its a case of reinvention. Alot of the pieces in that shoot were made for it and at times, that might be frustrating because we are a consumer title and it might leave them wanting things that they can't have, but with a biannual, you should be pushing the boundaries. We can be creative in that way."

 

Jacket and trousers by Agi&Sam and poloneck by John Smedley. From the 'Dubbing in the backyard' editorial, shot by Willem Jaspart and with fashion by Jason Hughes.

"We were an incubator. We never intended to be a luxury brand store and if a label gets above a certain point, it isn't for us anymore. If their brand evolves and they become something else then, of course, they should go on to do other things. Some have fallen by the wayside but some are extremely successful, and it's been great seeing that" Matthew Murphy.

 

Suit custom made for story by Satyenkumar and t shirt by Topman Design. From the 'Dubbing in the backyard' editorial, shot by Willem Jaspart and with fashion by Jason Hughes.

"It's about the same size as the last issue but it feels heavier. In terms of the balance between copy and images, there might be more imagery than previous issues and the fashion stories themselves require more attention than ever before. They require more time to take them in, Willem's cover story for example. This being our fifth issue, we decided to move them more than ever. We wanted to surprise the readers. You can't rest on just being a good magazine, it is never enough and you always have to do more, something different."

Part of London's most exciting dining experiences, Koya's John Devitt pictured with his favourite dish.

Much in the same way as there's a definite sense of b store maturing with the unveiling of the beautiful and custom furnished new Kingly Street space and numerous projects, b magazine grows with each issue. "With this issue more than ever, we've highlighted the idea of getting real experts in their field, Eleanor writes about food for the Observer, Teal who did the piece on Fanzines has written two books on the subject and is also a professor and course director at the London College of Communication" Chodha proudly states. The focus on building the already impressive list of contributors with respected individuals who have a real specialism in what they discuss, is something that is surprisingly quite unique. "There are a number of other titles who use wonderful writers but few have a real specialism."

Cathy Lomax's Arty magazine

"We haven't ever done anything that feels contrived or forced, It has to be natural and getting someone like Eleanor Morgan onboard, for me was really exciting because we want people with authority. As a consumer, after five issues of a magazine you do start wondering, am I going to continue buying it? You have to justify why people should continue to buy the title. We're working towards this. Firstly by guaranteeing that none of the information we print will be available anywhere else in any way, shape or form and secondly, it is important for people to feel like they are getting specialist advice or information. The title has definitely grown up, it helps to have people like Teal and Eleanor with their expertise and reputation on board. I feel proud that they like what we are doing and that they want to be involved in it as much as we want them to be involved in it."

Patrick Fry's No Zine

Given the anniversary, it came as little surprise that Chodha had moments of endearing reflection; "As the magazine is so much of what Jason and I and the boys are about at the b store, it would have to be something very different in a further ten years time and maybe, it might not be as relevant as it is now. It is important for us that we see it as something that is 'very now.' I'd much rather it have impact than for it to run out of steam or become stale."

At this moment in time, I cannot fathom b magazine ever becoming stale. The world b magazine weaves through and explores means that it is a publication that is nigh on impossible to put down. From the gardens of creatives to bodies of lesser known work, it concerns itself with the unexpected, uncharted or undocumented. It deals in everything with reassuring familiarity rather than the fantasy or purely aspirational that we have all grown accustomed to in the sea of fashion titles. One thing is for certain, this fifth issue, despite being well thumbed already will provide a welcome haven from the over indulgences of this festive period.

Raising a glass

Tristan (left) wears three piece suit and white shirt by Jae Wan Park. Shoes by Church. Ring by Dominic Jones at Start-London. Richie (centre) wears velvet navy suit and white shirt by Burberry. Shoes by Church.

As the sore heads and tired limbs scattered around me indicate we have well and truly entered party season. Despite our sorry physical and mental state, we should all embrace this time of year by donning the finery we might already have in our wardrobes, whilst adding some bargain pieces from the High Street and online by taking advantages of the bargains to be had at sale time. Back in October I touched upon the idea that most of us have lost sight of how much fun it is to be well dressed. In an interview with SwipeLife Patrick Grant commented the following; "It seems like men are almost embarrassed to be well-dressed. It feels like it’s too much, or you’ve tried too hard." I think it is about time that such a belief is quashed and what better time than now? This is the time where we ordinarily drink, eat and do everything else in excess so why not have a little fun getting dressed. Now is the time to dress in excess to see out the old year whilst raising a drink in the clutches of a fur trimmed leather gloved hand to wave goodbye to 2009 welcome in 2010. Right on time, the ever inspiring Fashion156 have recently launched their Soiree Issue...

Sam wears shirt, purple longline jacket and trousers by Omar Kashoura.

Guy Hipwell and his team have certainly allowed decadence and excess to prevail in their latest offering. The fashion editorials, film (their best yet) and featured articles all capture my preferred aesthetic of the season whilst showcasing a plethora of design talent. Established names including John Rocha, Alexander McQueen, Burberry and Vivienne Westwood Man sit alongside emerging design talent emerging design talent including Casely Hayford, JW Anderson and Omar Kashoura and the pick of the recent graduates including RCA graduates Jae Wan Park and Bronwen Marshall. Marshall's opulent oand oversized furs and Hannah Taylor's fanastical knitwear actually steal the show. The dribble inducing spread of images showcase a new form of sensual dandy. Satin slippers and silk scarves suggest luxury whilst the colour is anything but bog standard black tie affair. At his pleasant surprise of the AW09 catwalk shows, John Michael O'Sullivan puts forward the idea that they marked a "return of debonair dressing - Lanvin’s satins and ribboned trousers, or Dolce & Gabbana’s Martini-quaffing playboys in woven silk jackets, dangerously reminiscent of dressing gowns - suggested a modern, easier, laid-back spin on the aesthetic." The AW09 shows undoubtedly reminded us that dressing could be merely for pleasure and this theme was picked up in September for the SS10 shows...

Alex (left) wears jacket, shirt and trousers by John Rocha. Matt (right) wears white shirt, trousers and fencing waistcoat by Alexander McQueen.

It was a pleasant surprise to see Casely-Hayford used in this editorial but their designs cetainly exude a new form of luxury. Inspired by the raw energy of Kingsland Road, Casely-Hayford SS10 collection represents a new style tribe, the Afro Punk. One of the main recurring themes of their collections is the fusion of classic, English sartorialism and British anarchy. In previous collections this manifested itself in a wonderful balance of formal tailoring and sportswear but for SS10, instead relaxed tailoring sits extremely well with tribal, handcrafted ornate embellishment. Now, there is no reason why we have to wait for the sunshine to return before splashing on some orante embellishment.

Sabine (centre) wears orange chiffon dress by Louise Amstrup. Grey suede shoes by Rupert Sanderson. Jackdor headpiece by Natasha Lawes at Luna and Curious. Sam (right) wears long johns. jacket and shorts by Matteo Bigliardi. Richie (left) wears belted mac by Raf Simons at Selfridges.

If you are still in any doubt as to what to wear to your next party despite Fashion156's guidance, my advice is always to look at Tom Ford's well constructed elegance. The Texan designer looks as though he escaped the womb wearing a dinner jacket and has perfected the art of wearing one ever since. Of course we all don't look quite as good as Mr Ford in black tie but we can but dream and take a few pointers along the way.

A seasonal fairytale

Unlike EJ, who only has a few bits to get, I still have a lot of my Christmas shopping to do over the next few days and I'm sure to encounter nightmarish scenes (my fault for not being organised enough!) but when did Christmas become so real, so much responsibility and stress? Christmas should always be a time of wonder not just one of mass consumption (both presents and food). I used to love this time of year, not just because of the unwrapping of presents which were brought to you by family members you only see once a year combined with the constant influx of food coming from the kitchen but because it was the only time of year when we all came together to create something special. It used to be a time like no other in the calender, when whole streets were transformed and excitement filled the air. The decorated tree just although lovely just doesn't fill the same anymore.

I've never been one who enjoy doing anything on a stage but I used to love dressing up as a shepherd for my annual nativity play. Now that I'm older, Christmas just isn't the same because all of the kids in my family have grown up...so it is a time when the grown up family get together not one of wonder and make believe. Don't get me wrong it is still an enjoyable time but it has lost what makes it unique. In the Christmas and New Year Issue of Fashion156, the editorial depicts a winter fairy tale and the picture book scenes just remind me of how I used to see this time of year.

As always with Fashion156 the editorial mixes new designers with some of my favourites. This jumper comes from a newly launched knitwear label called Sibling and is teamed up with YMC black trousers.

The jumper above is by Katie Eary (who is a recent RCA Grad and has been featured as part of DazedDigital's Fashion's New Optimisim) and is paired with nylon trousers by Carola Euler, boots by bstore and the fantastical look is finished with a furry mask by Soren Bach.

For some reason the above look reminds me of the Shepherd I used to play between the ages of five and ten but obviously it is how I'd love to dress the part now as opposed to how I looked back then. The look contains the best pieces from the Raf Simons AW 08 collection (the shirt and coat combo) and is worn with grey trousers by Carola Euler and hi tops by Balenciaga.

This tartan jumper comes from Balenciaga and is my favourite piece (if anyone is wealthy and would like to get me a present...). I expect a few surprises to come out from this Fashion House and look forward to see what Nicolas Ghesquière's team come up with in the New Year.

As you can see, the styling steps away from the season 'must haves' or a guide to the best party outfits which we see in the vast majority of publication and instead concentrates on original pieces that will allow you to stand out from the crowd and celebrate style at it's most fantastical. Who cares if they're not perfectly suitable for everyday wear? Hopefully, these images will at the very least transport you to the Christmas' of old before you have to return to the stress and panic which the festive season now brings.

Inspired by Jonathan+Olivia

Jonathan+Olivia is a forward minded fashion boutique based in Vancouver which features international clothing for both men and women (including the likes of Acne, Hyden Yoo, Rag&Bone, Robert Geller, Stansfield...). The boutique was named after the owner's (Jackie O'Brien) niece and nephew which I find unbelievably cute as I have visions of stylish little toddlers (as per the Parisian Toddler featured last month) but I guess the name will be less cute when they get older...

Within issue eight of h(y)r collective (which has become one of my favourite online reads) the store has presented it's Autumn/Winter 08 lookbook as part of the the issues editorial feature and the relaxed but somewhat romantic Autumn scenes depicted make me realise that I just didn't play in the leaves enough this year.

The style of the editorial has made me want to do something similar on the blog. A somewhat candid but (attempted) stylish look in to what we'll be wearing in the coming season. The Spring/Summer 09 look books are fast being shown here and within the rest of the blogosphere but expect a Style Salvage attempt sometime in the New Year. I am envisioning a roadtrip to the seaside, I want donkeys and sandy beaches...In all seriousness this lookbook has inspired me to take more personal style shots and I've added this to my ever growing New Year's Resolution lists which is now more like the original transcript of Kerouac's 'On the Road' than your average list...

Weekend Reading... b Magazine AW11

The fifth issue of b Store’s eponymous publication dropped on Friday and it afforded the perfect opportunity to visit their new space on Kingly Street. Along with the issue I left with a couple of early Christmas presents for myself (if you can, go this weekend for yourself). Given that this marks b Store's tenth anniversary, the issue, aptly and hum inducingly named PUSH IT REAL GOOD, is decidedly reflective with an excellent piece penned piece by Ben Purdue. Also in this issue, the Observer’s Eleanor Morgan meets the restaurateurs and chefs behind some of London’s most exciting eating experiences from noodles made by foot in Soho to pigs heads in Shoreditch. The writer Michael Nottingham introduces a photographic portfolio by James Pearson-Howes, which takes a unique look at British life. The graphic-design historian and author of The Typographic Experiment, Teal Triggs profiles four fanzine creators keeping the DIY ethos of print, paper and staples alive. b Magazine’s editor, Dal Chodha, talks to the affable furniture designer Martino Gamper in his Hackney studio about his crusade for good mass-market design, while also stealing a look at Nancy Rohde’s chamomile lawn and Ally Capellino’s grape vines. Fashion is courtesy of Sam Ranger who shoots with Aitken Jolly; b’s editorial and creative director Jason Hughes shoots with Willem Jaspert (the cover story) and Laurence Ellis; and Steven Westgarth shoots a spring/summer 2012 preview with Tom Allen.

I'm currently working on a more in depth feature on the issue which includes an interview with the ever lovely Dal Chodha but in the meantime, I just wanted to share its cover with you. For research purposes I read the pdf version during a recent weekend jaunt to the Kentish coast. As my Nan sat fast asleep in her armchair, TV blaring I was lost in the issue. Enthralled in the copy and dazzled by the inspiring imagery, I'm looking forward to losing myself all over again this weekend with the physical copy...whilst pondering just how Jason Hughes managed to expertly customise a John Smedley roll neck with Ayame socks.

Advent - Day Seven

The eventful year of 2008 has certainly been a year of the collaboration (the highlights for me being Acne x Lanvin and Raf Simons x Fred Perry) and there is certainly time to squeeze a few more in before the year ends. I stumbled across my first three way on hypebeast yesterday and the below image permeated the thick cobwebs surrounding my brain and gave it a wake up slap.

New York-based contemporary brand Band of Outsiders, United Arrows’ Beauty & Youth and Japanese online magazine honeyee.com have worked together to create a bowtie and necktie. This certainly sounds like a lot of hands to create two relatively simple accessories but the resulting bow tie and in particular, how it has been styled in this shot (it reminds me of Christmas morning for some reason) is worthy of applause and I would be happy to receive this in my stocking!

Advent - Day Four

Before we inundate you with gift ideas and musings on the festive season, I wanted to hijack the advent calender a little while longer and just share an amazing magazine cover with you for box number four...

Image courtesy of thenonplace

The latest issue of Dazed&Confused Japan features a simply awesome illustrated cover and story by one of my favourite designers Aitor Throup. Throughout 2008 I have periodically returned to Throup's site to marvel at his comic book style sketches so it is a real treat to know that some unseen ones have been published in Dazed Japan. I just need to seek it out either in the basement of the Japan Centre or alternatively online...

My new years resolution for 2009 is to learn (some) Japanese because as Thom Wong keep commenting; 'they do everything better' and it would be nice to tell them that when I manage to get over there.

Weekend Reading... It's Nice That and 032c

With Susie continuing to rack up her airmiles, I too have decided to escape the capital for the weekend but am only heading as far as the Kent coast. Two days of battling the elements (particularly the wind) and elderly Christmas shoppers awaits. Accompanying me on this festive jaunt are two of my favourite publications, the recently tinkered with It's Nice That and the ever hard to put down 032c. The former has experienced something of a transformation for its seventh issue and inadvertently but rather appropriately explores the future of publishing. Features that I can't wait to immerse myself in the beautifully repackaged It's Nice That include profiles of celebrated documentary photographer Martin Parr, interviews with i-D founder Terry Jones and a free comic by the talented illustrator Sophy Hollington. Meanwhile, after more than a decade of tracing the underlying forces of today's creative, 032c takes stock and lays out the concepts that have emerged from its editorial exploration under the manifesto like umbrella of What We Believe. Whilst looking back, the issue treats the well fed mind of the reader with features on Russian tango dancer turned designer Serge Chermayeff, the original Mad Man Ivan Chermayeef and Supreme to name just a few. A weekend of stolen moments to read awaits.  

Monocle Shop - A small haven from the hustle and bustle of Central London shopping

You might have noticed on previous posts that I am an avid reader of Monocle. It is the only monthly (well it can almost be classed as a monthly) that I read from cover to cover and take great delight in keeping because they are such a good resource! At the helm of the magazine is a man both myself and TheSundayBest hate to love who is constantly pushing the publication forward and in new directions. The latest direction is the Monocle Shop (located just off London’s Marylebone High Street) and I just had to brave the wet, grey London afternoon today to take a peek inside (unfortunately I took my camera but left my memory card in the laptop, so the images are provided from Monocle). The shop showcases the full Monocle range of products that have been created in partnership with leading design brands such as Comme des Garçons, Porter, Valextra, Artek and Drakes London.

At just just nine sq metres in size (it is only a touch larger than my childhood bedroom which only allowed my bed, a small television set and my sega mega drive) but it is so welcoming and feels so homely. The shop feels like a well thought out living room., summed up by prints of Alexis Armanet's Sumo Shots adorning the wall above the fireplace ..I just wish it was my living room! I was instantly greeted by a chirpy assistant who was happy to chat and show me the range of products. Upon showing me the Porter Baby Boston Bag I was so very close to sacrificing all self control and handing over my debit card to the lovely lady and asking to take one of everything! Fortunately, just before I could reach into my card wallet and begin mass purchasing everything from the array of goods, in walked Yoshitsugu Tagaki who is Production Editor of KitaKoga which pushed my excitement levels over the edge and I couldn't take any more...I paid for the latest issue and departed with a smile on my face.

Before I left, the helpful assistant informed me that the space will constantly evolve, the stock will change on a regular basis right up until the shop closes in March. This store is a safe haven away from the crowds and madness of Oxford Street...I know where I will be shopping for Christmas Gifts (for others...but mostly for myself!) and if you have a chance you should definitely pop in.

Designer of the Year - Honey I shrunk the suit

Unsurprisingly GQ have name Thom Browne 'Designer of the Year' in their December issue and there cannot be too many complaints out there...are there? I'm hard pushed to come up with a single other menswear designer who has created such a stir after his shows, not to mention the fact that his indicative style has been replicated throughout the world. Never before have I seen men sporting cuffed trousers complimented by no socks on the scale I have seen on the streets of London this year and this is down to the influence of one man.

Men's style is such an interesting and constantly evolving entity. Who would've thought just a few years ago that someone who advocated high trousers and the shrunken suit would become the toast of the sartorial town? Browne started selling the suits we have grown to love in 2001 and his collections have always been focused around the suit, building on its links to menswear from the past and how the oddity of its proportions threw its reference points into postmodern relief. Since 2001 Browne has of course received many plaudits but he has also received a great deal of negative reviews - there is a constant criticism that the designer is making clothes that look weird on anyone who isn't Thom Browne...I have however seen many Thom Browne's walking the streets this year. His designs have slowly eroded many of our beliefs on what a good suit should be, he has made us question many things about something so simple (or so we thought) as the practical, 'safe' option, the suit. He has done this to such an extent that the same people who initially laughed at the proportions of his creations are now desperate for his next line, whilst feeling self conscious if their ankles are covered. In my opinion he deserves the designer of the year accolade for this alone. Are you happy with GQ's choice?

Weekend Reading... A long sit down with LAW

Just one week ago I poured myself a cuppa and excitedly flicked through two printed finds, LAW and The Travel Almanac. As the latter has received a fair bit of attention already, I'd like to return to the former. LAW is a platform to portray the beautiful in the everyday. This limited edition bi-annual magazine revels in revealing what others miss. A self titled 'bomb shelter for creative collaboration between the talented youth of today with grit in their teeth and something to say.' For its editor John Holt, style is everywhere. Far away from a runway or glossy publication, it can be an act or a gesture, an accent or slang. It is simply everywhere, all one has to do is look. To help fund the title, John Holt sold his dream car, a 1974 Ford Escort Mark 1. Fittingly, a classic of British style sacrificed to celebrate the wider everyday. LAW is a title concerned with documenting the over looked and giving people a sense of belonging and recognition that they ordinarily might not receive. The aim is to make fashion accessible by challenging perception that it's an elitist world by showing that it surrounds us all. Throughout its fifty three page, it pauses to shine the spotlight on a patchwork of everyday eye catchers including passionate shop owners, matchmakers, tailors, brand devotees, dilapidated funparks and cursed football kits.

In amongst the grey concrete walls, LAW is a window to the world of of the current and undercurrent. A cross section of people, places and items that others blindly walk past, making it even more important to document. The bi-annual shines the spotlight on facets of Britain and localised symbols that would ordinarily not be known outside of these shores. Lets press our noses to the glasses and see...

John Holt sold his dream car, a 1974 Ford Escort Mark 1, to make his dream magazine. A classic of British style sacrificed to celebrate the wider everyday.

The featured sneaker collection of Rob Prentice. "There's almost a Nike culture in sneaker collecting", he notes with a smile. From ebay finds to splurges, this collection details Prentice pure elation for kicks.

Forgotten dreams of an English Summer featuring Christopher Shannon and Air Max 90s.

Dean Powell's Adidas archive. "When I was a kid everybody had Adidas Santiago football boots and I think the first trainers I had were black and white Adidas Kick." Three stripes, a wealth of knowledge and a fortune of stories.

Shirley Webb's editorial is close to home. Dreamland is a waiting to be restored themepark in my hometown of Margate. 

The famous grey Manchester United away shirt. United's record in this kit was as follows. Lost 4 and Drew 1.  A furious Ferguson demand that his team change out of it at halftime at The Dell. They were 3-0 down at Southampton. 

From Dave Imms series Butchers.

Giles Peacock has kept every pair of boots he has worn since he was seven. Above is a just a taster of the collection.

Beauty in the everyday right through to the back page. LAW's pebble dash print.

Here's hoping that LAW will continue to archive real characters and document a cacophony of historic British traces as they shift, evolve and disappear from our surroundings. I'll leave you with words uttered by Jason Evans...

"I differentiate between fashion and style, I think fashion is an industry and style is an inherent quality and I'm much more interested in style than fashion"

Weekend Reading Tip: 032c

Having complained that my blog reader had been inundated with what appeared to be two cloned posts the twentieth issue of 032c is the perfect antidote. Now, it is time to step away from the seemingly ever present and comforting glow of the computer screen and instead focus my gaze on the two hundred and sixty four pages. What began as a DIY, experiment exploring the possibilities of print has grown in to an archetypal magazine that effortlessly fuses art, culture and fashion in a lip smackingly good cocktail. The intelligence and freshness of its content is always something to savour and this issue is thankfully no different. Highlights include (deep breath) a forty page dossier on Rei Kawakubo, a closer look at Acy'teryx's efforts of pushing performance wear forward with its new line Veilance, Rem Koolhaas dicsussing Moscow's new Strelka Institute, David Simon talks anger and the American city while 032c’s latest Select presents the best of this season’s books, products, and ideas.

The twentieth issue of 032c offers welcome relief to the printed culture ennui that most of us have felt in recent years. It is the very antithesis of the quick flick through before throwaway publications that are struggling on the newstands. Now, it is time for another cup of tea and read.

Whisky leads to a nothing to lose mentality

My first assignment for Fashion156 was to interview Rankin to discuss his latest project over a beer. The project is a collaboration with Macallan Scotch Whisky where he has produced 1000 Polaroids which were exhibited over the weekend and are being used to make one hell of a Christmas present - each unique Polaroid is encased in a black leather box together with a bottle of Macallan's Fine Oak 30 year old whisky and printed with a label to match the specific Polaroid - just don't ask how much it costs. As well as talking about whisky Rankin was happy to talk about everything and anything, ranging from the recession, Dazed & Confused and his thoughts on the fashion industry. The highlight for me was the discussion surrounding the evolution of Dazed & Confused magazine out of the last recession:

Fashion156: We are constantly bombarded with the news of the current financial crisis. As the last recession was one of the catalysts of forming Dazed&Confused, what do you see coming out of this one?

Rankin: (It is) Interesting that you said that because a lot of people don’t realise what a recession or financial crisis actually does. For me it creates potential because there is nothing to lose, which is a classic way for you to realise your potential and that’s what happened to us. Out of poverty comes great creativity. Just look at all of the great bands that have come out of having nothing because they have nothing to lose. It’s all gone a bit post-modern now though, everyone plans their success.

Hours after the interview all I could think about was what might come out of the latest recession. It inspired me to roll my creative sleeves up and do something whilst riding this 'nothing to lose mentality'. What would you like to see evolve out of this current economic crisis?

NB - The whole of the interview (split into two parts) can be read over on Fashion156's Blog.

Weekend Reading... LAW and The Travel Almanac

With a jetlagged and exhausted Susie sleeping off her New York travels I was eager to make use of a quiet weekend by immersing myself in the printed word. Having started my weekend with a trip to Goodhood (future blog post in the works) I took advantage of the store's excellent array of difficult to source publications and zines. Somewhat spoilt for choice I turned to Kyle Stewart for his recommendations. I left with the debut issue of LAW and the second issue of the The Travel Almanac.

Now, I had already heard positive murmurings around the latter given the features on musician Will Oldham, artist and former fashion designer Helmut Lang, and actress Juliette Lewis which sit alongside various excursion fodder in a aesthetically pleasing and thought provoking package. However, Brighton based John Holt's LAW is a new discovery. This bi-annual is concerned with documenting the overlooked and giving people a sense of belonging and recognition that perhaps they would not normally receive but in no way shape or form less deserve. Where The Travel Almanac explores the beyond and inspires a sophisticated generation of travellers, LAW portrays the beautiful in everyday and focuses on what's right under our noses. Time to put the kettle on and enter these two worlds...

Magazine Musings

Last week we received an email from a Graphic Design student at Staffordshire University, who is writing a Design Report Project on Men's Lifestyle Magazines, asking for our thoughts. It is well documented that I am something of a magazine addict, I often take great pleasure in re-reading through the piles of magazines dotted throughout the flat and I spend far too much time and money in Borders on Charing Cross Road. Anyway, below are my responses and it would be great if you could let us know what you think as well.

If you were to create a men's style magazine, what features and topics would you include?

Wow, what a thought. I would like it to examine everything that inspires and excites me. So many men's style magazines have an extremely narrow point of view, covering topics, styling and designers in a cyclical, formulaic way and I would want to keep people guessing. I admire the ACNE Paper's openness to anything and everything. You really don't know what to expect from page to page. In terms of features it would have to roughly follow the following structure; editors letter including an inspiration mood board, the features section - news, an eye on an upcoming designer, interviews, style icons, culture overview, a buyer's and shop guide, fashion editorials - which would make up at least a quarter of the magazine and would mix designers, reader's style questions, how-to-tips (styling, modification and grooming).

What is the best men's style magazine out at the moment?

I have many favourites but the clear winner is Fantastic Man. It has changed the landscape of men's style magazines for the better, with so many of its competitors and blogs taking inspiration from it. Monocle deserves a mention because it the most interesting and all consuming magazines available. I have a terrible habit of buying and then rapidly flicking through the crisp pages before discarding the recently bought magazine for a later read through (sometimes I forget all about it) but this is impossible with issues of Monocle. You have to take time and actually read the content confined within that small package.

Is the editorial design important to you as a consumer?

I expect every, single aspect of a magazine to be well thought out and work - the editorial design plays an important role and should not be overlooked. I personally like a mix of editorial designs within a single magazine and unfortunately none (that I've found/read anyway) manage to pull this off or maybe they just don't want to. I like simple and clean design (as seen in Fantastic Man) alongside the more varied and frantic design layouts more akin to Japanese Street Mags.

What importance do men's style magazines have to today's man?

Men's style magazines certainly have a role to play in the lives of the majority of style conscious men. They have evolved (certainly for the better) as I have grown up with them. I am quite sure that there is at least one magazine for us all. I am certainly not alone in my addiction/obsession but there are a number of stylish men out there (the Cablog is a prime example) who take no notice of them at all.

Weekend Reading... Fourth & Main Issue 2

At the start of the year we were introduced to the creative world of Fourth & Main. The brainchild of Nikhil Adwalpalkar and James Wright, the brand entered the market as a capsule menswear collection and a bi-annual arts and culture publication. The debut issue of its Journal read alongside the considered collection of wardrobe staples was a fine introduction. Now, as the brand settles into its Newburgh Street home, we are treated to the second issue and an AW12 collection that extends their philosophy of fine tailoring with a contemporary twist. 

Sanguinely sidestepping sophomore album syndrome, the creative team closely followed the common thread that bound together their featured artists and their subjects. With a cupped hand held behind the collective ear, they have sought out a spectrum of creatives who march to the beat of their own drum. Whether actors, artists, directors, musicians or writers, the second issue is a celebration of those who tell the stories that are largely untold and help turn our imagination on to a world we crave to know. We hear from Ben Whishaw - one of the most sensitive and gifted artists of his generation, look closely at the work of director Steve James, marvel at Turkish Photographer Pinar Yolacan's latest series and get a little closer to the enigmatic talent of Money...

A few pages that caught my eye.

Picking up where the debut issue left us, issue two of Fourth & Main's Journal is a considered curation of the voices that should be heard, ideas that should be explored and tales that are all too easy to get lost it.