Collections: David Hellqvist's Shirts

Everyone's wardrobe reveals an obsession with something and our Collections series highlight a few of our favourites. Today, we delve in to Port Magazine's new online editor David Hellqvist's collection of shirts. Having had the pleasure of working alongside him at Dazed for two years, I've seen his entire sartorial repertoire and was frequently impressed with both the consistency and variety of his shirt choices. Now that we've both moved on, I miss the daily sighting so duly invited myself around to his Hackney home to have a good rummage through some old favourites and be introduced to a few recent acquisitions. Below is an introduction from the man himself followed by plenty of shirt shots and we take a closer look at a few of his favourites...

"I can't remember the first ever shirt that I bought but I can remember getting into the kind of shirts I wear now. I had a massive Polo Ralph Lauren 'love in' a few years ago. That's where my love of button down shirts in light blue chambray comes from. They are still great shirts, and so clever... the man basically invented polo shirts and that kind of relaxed Ivy League style. I had loads of them. Don't wear them anymore but they still sit in the archive...

I can't pick a favourite - sorry - but looking at the images now, seeing the shirts I pulled out without thinking just because I loved them that moment, there's a few things that I clearly look for in a shirt; clever and unexpected details, like with the Martine Rose shirt. Mixed prints and fabrics; a bit of a favourite, as seen in the Our Legacy shirt and the Comme des Garcons x Visvim shirt. Not always the most subtle solution but a fairly simple way of making a shirt stand out. All over prints; the Adam Kimmel over dyed Hawaii print is just brilliant, a moody take on the loudest, jolliest and happiest print ever invented. And also the Wood Wood Paradiski Insignia shirt... a bit of humour is important, can't take it all too serious. That leaves the Mark Mcnairy shirt. It says McNasty on the back and New York on the front. It's awesome. Need I say more?"

Having offered a cross section of his collection, we could not resist taking a look at how he wears a few of his favourites and to learn the stories behind them. What follows are his descriptions of six of his well loved treasures.

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The old favourite...

"This is a collaboration between Comme des Garcon's shirt line and Visvim which I picked up when I was working in Dover Street Market back in 2006. It is the oldest shirt in my collection that I still frequently wear. It is just beautiful. On first look it is a shirt that has the characteristics of a classic Comme shirt with its blue and white stripes but the paneling makes it different from other line shirts. The fusion of three subtly different fabrics is great."

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The new favourite...

"I bought this beautiful shirt in Stockholm during fashion week back in August. Again it uses three different fabrics. Mixing colours, prints and texture is an easy way for designers to make shirts exciting but Our Legacy just do it so well and their fit is brilliant. I love the subtle combination."

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The classic Martine Rose...

"This is one of my many Martine Rose shirts. It is just the perfect example of how she approaches her signature shirts. The classic Bengal stripe is transformed with the addition of the red tape seamed pocket and zip detailing. Traditional with innovation. It is a hybrid."

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The classic McNasty...

"What can you not like about Mr Mark McNairy, Mr McNasty, Mr New York? He takes Ivy League staples and fucks around with them to make his own brand. This is actually a present from him so I think it might be a sample because it is so thin but it is perfect for warm weather. I tend not to like short sleeved shirts but I make an exception for this one because the print is so damn cool."

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The recent Wood Wood...

"I just love the Paradiski Insignia print from Wood Wood this season. Wood Wood are a great Danish brand who just add their own touch to traditional pieces, season after season. The print itself is a little crazy but it's awesome."

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The darkness of Adam Kimmel...

"This is from Adam Kimmel SS12. I just love the idea of taking a familiar classic like the Hawaiian shirt and making it his own. It is dark. Not just in hue but by the approach of taking something so light, colourful and fun and making it black."

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Collections... Shoes

"I have just caught the shoe bug and would love to see a cross section of your collection Steve. Would make a great post..."

Anonymous Reader

What follows is a direct result of the above anonymous comment received on our Style Stalking feature and an enthusiastic nudge administered by EJ. The shoe bug is indeed contagious and I could not shirk the opportunity to unveil my collection. Now, as you all know, the ever changing pursuit of building the perfect wardrobe is a lifelong one so here is a snapshot of my present collection. The much appreciated art of wardrobe building is not a fast or haphazard activity: instead it is developed and nurtured over time. Of course there will be the odd irrational purchase or taste questioning gift but over time these items will be forgotten and you'll be left with a true indication of your style at a given time.

In recent years, I have attempted to focus my attention on one specific area of need at a time. The last eighteen months have seen me refine, edit, purchase and lay the foundations of a shoe collection fit for my tastes of today, and hopefully tomorrow. This period began with an acknowledgment that it was time to bid a fond farewell to eight pairs of pavement abused and gig sullied Converse All Stars and a plethora of well loved Adidas trainers. Following this difficult period of trainer cleansing (of course the odd, well preserved favourite was kept), I began investing in footwear that my feet craved. The collection, once reduced to its bare essentials, has slowly but surely grown to its current level of seventeen well loved pairs. This weekend I decided to take a snapshot of the current collection and highlight a few of my favourites...

The current line-up in full

Varying heights and styles...

From Boots to brogues to lace ups to trainers to high tops...

A few trainers remain alongside a couple of new pairs.

Now, having offered the requested cross section of my shoe collection I could not resist offering a closer look at a few favourites. What follows are descriptions of seven of my well loved and well worn pairs. I've always loved the idea of a man's wardrobe providing an eloquent narrative of his life less ordinary. Here's what my shoes have to say...

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The shoes that...are always on my feet...

Kudu boots by Lodger worn with suit trousers by Reiss.

After interviewing Lodger's Nathan Brown back in September 2009 my imagination was overwhelmed following his description of his September shoe of the month, the Kudu Brogued Boot. From this moment on I day dreamed about them gracing my feet during the upcoming winter months and beyond. Having bought them, the reality was just as good. I feel as passionately about them now as I did then. The boot is an eight eyelet brogue style, and has a skeleton lining of the same Kudu leather as the upper, and a full lining in a plush purple velvet from Scabal. The craftsman in Northampton created something truly beautiful out of that antique African antelope hide and I feel special every time they grace my feet.

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The shoes that...are the newest...

Lanvin Hi Tops worn with socks from Uniqlo and trousers by Tim Soar.

You might recall that when I hit the quarter of a century mark, Susie knew me all too well and bought me the best present ever in a pair on Lanvin hi tops. Fast forward a couple of years and Susie saw that my eyes had lit up thanks to a wool and leather combination for AW10. She opted to treat me to a pair of these flocked grey, navy and maroon weave hi tops as an early Christmas present. Since then, these texture rich trainers have been worn countless times.

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The shoes that...receive more longing looks than any other

Orwell Stingray by Mr Hare worn with socks by Topman and trousers by b Store.

Mr. Hare's passion for fine shoes is infectious and for all to see over on his blog but it is even more apparent in his designs. For me, there is one particular shoe that made me look at footwear differently. The Orwell Stingray is an apron Derby shoe in patent leather with stingray built on a Blake construction. “When you absolutely, positively got to kill every motherfucker in the room. Accept no substitutes.” This sentence uttered by Ordell Robbie in ‘Jackie Brown’ was the only sentence that came into Mr Hare's head every time he looked at the Orwell and I can certainly see why. He declared that the "Orwell is an apron derby that has all the attitude of 60s Kray run London and the joie de vivre of Sammy Davis Jnr. I just received the Stingray version which is sick." After wearing them for eighteen months, my feet always feel as though they a ready to dance around town in a bygone era. They set the shoe bar ridiculously high.

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The shoes that...I saw being made...

Mentor Brogues by Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis worn with socks from Marks & Spencer and trousers by Tim Soar.

Back in September, I was invited to watch the Cheaney craftsmen at work at their Desborough factory, to learn more about one of England's master shoemakers and see the fruits of their collaboration with Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis. I eagerly followed and snapped away at each well honed and practiced process from start to finish in the factory that has been their home for well over two hundred years. It was a pleasure to be able to watch each stage unfold in a space that has seen the same processes come together for over two centuries. It is little wonder why Joe Casely-Hayford partnered with them once more. After the deserved success of last season’s Pukk brogues (they had this blogger's heart skipping a few beats), Casely-Hayford has taken the much appreciated design concept a step further. During my time at the factory I was able to see firsthand snapshots of the creation process for the latest Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis, Cheaney brogue; the Mentor. I was fortunate enough to view the finishing touches being applied to one of the final dozen due to be dispatched to John Lewis. A few weeks later and I received my own pair.

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The shoes that...are as comfortable as slippers...

Harris Tweed Desert Boots by Clarks worn with socks and trousers by Uniqlo.

To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Desert Boot, Clarks Originals created six unique new designs (three for women and three for men). It still amazed me that these stylish staples were first invented in a Burmese military outpost by a young Nathan Clark. The original boots inspiration is a crepe soled boot made from rough, suede in Cairo's fabled Old Bazaar and it was soon the off-duty English Army officers footwear of choice. There are of course a plethora of different desert boots out there made by all sorts of names but why deviate from the original? To mark the anniversary Clarks Originals created a look inspired by each of the six decades that the Desert Boot has spent as an essential fashion item. As soon as the anniversary boots were released back in September my head was turned by the Harris Tweed, 1950's pair and they have provided me with comfort ever since.

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The shoes that...remind me that I'm in the PDG...

Flocked Polka Dot shoes by Dr Martens worn with socks by Sock Mate and trousers by Omar Kashoura.

As one of the founding members of the Polka Dot Gang (EJ is the other) these shoes make me incredibly happy. In addition to adding much needed colour to my ever expanding shoe collection, they also add a sense of fun. While excitedly poring over Dr Martens AW10 models I fell head over welted soled heels for a pair of purple polka dot lace ups but unfortunately for me they were one of the jewels of the women's line. The product team at Dr Martens are also huge fans of polka dots and have been experimenting with flocking techniques for some time. The result is something quite special. Made all the more special because they are (currently) entirely unique. You might think that I'm wearing a girls shoe in a larger size but you'd be wrong. Instead of using the women's DML comfort last the Dr Martens team made my shoes on the 84 last. The 84 is unisex and is much narrower and has a slightly more pointed toe. Every time I look at the flocked polka dots I will let out a wry smile and will remember just how special they are...

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The shoes that...feel like a holiday...

Striped Oxford by Lodger worn with socks by Happy Socks and gingham trousers by b Store

Back in July 2009 my head was turned by yet another offering from Lodger's all too tempting shoe of the month unveiling. The breathtaking Striped Oxford was duly added to my shoe list and after saving the required pennies, I decided to invest in a pair. Inspired by the Duke of Windsor (undoubtedly one of the best dressed men of all time) the design is an interesting blend of fine Scabal striped linen and burnished French calf. It is this combination which makes it a great addition to the shoe pile for the warmer months. All in all, these have made for a fine investment. Now, I just long to find more sunshine at home and abroad.

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The piles of footwear choices strewn throughout my flat are a constant reminder (Susie calls them a nuisance but she really can't talk!) of my fondness of footwear but I have to confess that I've never really considered myself as a shoeist in the same vein as Mr. Hare or Queen Imelda. No doubt my collection will grow and I'll update you as and when it does...

Collections: Jason Dike's Coats

Everyone's obsessed with something and our Collections series highlight a few of our favourites. Today, we explore Jason Dike's coat addiction. Now, Jason is a stylish chap who tends to avoid the limelight, preferring instead to focus on unearthing well crafted menswear labels from across the globe or featuring the latest product releases from our favourite brands for Selectism, Gentleman's Corner and Esquire. Whenever we see him around town, we never fail to admire his coat so we invited ourselves around to Casa de Menswear (Jason shares a flat with Daniel Jenkins) to rummage through his collection. Below is an introduction from the man himself followed by plenty of coat shots and we take a closer look at a few of his favourites...

"Before I was asked to take part in this post I didn't think I had that many coats. In fact, up until I was in conversation with someone who was lamenting their coat addiction (they had 12, at that point I had 15 and thought that wasn't enough) that I realised it. I'm now at 17 (and that's not counting the coats in storage) and I still think that isn't enough. What I like about coats is that they're the easiest way to change an outfit, put on a field blazer and you're instantly sharper, put on a varsity jacket and you're instantly sporty. I could prattle on, but put it this way: I'm a lazy dresser who prefers putting his clothes on and forgetting about them, so a good coat is an essential."

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Jason's collection currently stands at seventeen coats and he still wants more! We decided to cover his bed with a handful at a time before taking a few detail shots...

Now, having offered a cross section of his collection, we could not resist taking a look at how he wears a few of his favourites and to learn the stories behind them. What follows are his descriptions of seven of his well loved treasures...

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The one that makes an impression

Stutterheim coat, SNS Herning Cardigan, vintage shirt, APC Jeans

I've needed a raincoat for the longest time, so when the opportunity came to get this Stutterheim coat I couldn't turn it down. It's extremely white, but I like that about it. And it's properly waterproof so I can just throw this on when it starts chucking it down. I didn't know it, but it looks like I've always wanted to subconsciously look like a stylish lab technician.

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The one that's a trusted favourite

Lou Dalton Coat, COS Jumper, vintage shirt, APC Jeans

I got this a while back after raving about it in Selectism (this will be a recurring theme in this post) and deciding I needed one for myself. When I first got I wore it just about every day and I liked when people's expressions went from 'what's that coat, it's amazing!' to 'oh god he's wearing that coat again' after seeing me a few times in a row. I'm also pretty sure Lou Dalton did a double take of me when she saw me wearing it one time, which must be a weird moment for designers. It's one of my favourites, mainly because I can wear it with several things in my wardrobe with little thought (like I said, I'm a lazy dresser).

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The one that's worn all the time

APC Parka, Levi's Vintage denim jacket. COS Jumper, vintage shirt, Norsea Denim

Remember what I said about recurring themes? I also raved about this coat on Selectism and promptly forgot about it. Then sales season came around and I found this one in Liberty for an absolutely ridiculous price. And, seeing as there was nearly a full rack of them, I'm sure no one loved the colour purple as much as I do. Their loss, I got this for a steal and haven't looked back since. It's great for wearing in the spring with just a shirt and good enough to wear with multiple layers like I'm doing in this shot.


As for the denim jacket, I've wanted a well worn one for a while. I've been searching but the colour's usually a bit too dark for my liking, so I gave them a miss. It took a while but I finally got one from Beyond Retro when I bumped into Jason Jules and he pointed out some big E numbers. I'm not gonna turn down sage advice, so I bought one of them.

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The one that helps me look a bit sharp

Casely-Hayford for John Lewis Field Blazer, Uniqlo white oxford, COS chunky knit, APC denim

Despite having umpteen coats, to date I only have one blazer, a corduroy number that needs tailoring. Luckily I managed to get hold of this CH for JL number and it's now the easiest (and only) way for me to look sharp. The smart blazer is such an exact science that I've been putting it off until I can really afford it but this fits supremely well. It leaves just the right amount of cuff, fits well on the shoulders and isn't restrictive when buttoned up.

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The one that's very, very, very warm

And-I Peacoat, Howlin for Morrison Fair Isle jumper, White Uniqlo shirt, APC Denim

Writing for the outlets I do means that I use terms like 'essential' far more than needed. But a good warm winter coat is an essential, or staple if you wanna rack up the fashion cliches. This one's from And-I and it's ridiculously warm - I don't think I can overstate this. I can only wear it from late November to January (and I'll still sweat on the underground) and the rest of the time it lays in hibernation. The pocket in the back and random button up top is what makes this special.

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The newest one

Vintage coat, Howlin by Morrison fair isle jumper, White Uniqlo shirt, APC denim

This is my newest purchase and I like it because I don't know what it is. It looks like it started life as a bomber and someone decided to extend it into a longish coat with a shawl collar and ribbed cuffs. Whatever it is, it looks nice and fit me straight off the rack. I just have to work on getting rid of the vintage funk smell and it'll be good to go.

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