Advent - Day Twenty Four

I have only recently fallen head over heels with the Visvim brand but the more I see the deeper my love gets...the Virgil boot and FBT Shaman in this brown kangaroo leather are the best yet. If I had any Christmas shopping to do either of these would be my footwear of choice...I would just have to go out and buy them first...Happy Christmas Eve to one and all.

Merry Christmas to...me

Merry Christmas to me. My gift to myself, a pair of Harris Tweed Clarks Desert Boots sitting pretty under the tree.

Over the last week or two I have been running around central London on the hunt for the perfect Christmas presents for my friends and family. As you all know, this can be a quite traumatic time at the best of times but when you add freezing temperatures to the mix you have a foul tasting cocktail. Whilst dashing to and from work and around the shops I have fallen prey to the ice and snow. In fact I have tripped on my sorry behind no less than four times in as many days, bruising my forearm, arse and ego in the process. Oh woe was me. By Sunday morning I was feeling more than a little sorry for myself and turned to a spot of personal retail therapy for comfort. However, rather than succumbing to rabid consumerist hysteria I made an astute, practical and measured purchase, a pair of Harris Tweed Clarks Desert Boots at half price no less!

I was surprised to find a mini-boot keyring packed in with my boots.

To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Desert Boot, Clarks Originals created six unique, new designs (three for women and three for men). t is amazing to think that these stylish staples were first invented in a Burmese military outpost by a young Nathan Clark. The original boots inspiration is a crepe soled boot made from rough, suede in Cairo's fabled Old Bazaar and it was soon the off-duty English Army officers footwear of choice. There are a plethora of different desert boots out there made by all sorts of names but why deviate from the original? To mark the anniversary Clarks Originals created a look inspired by each of the six decades that the Desert Boot has spent as an essential fashion item. As soon as the anniversary boots were released back in September my head was turned by the Harris Tweed, 1950's pair...

The certified mark of Harris Tweed.

For such a burly and utilitarian fabric, Harris Tweed evokes an a great deal of romantically nostalgic feelings and ever since I watched the recent BBC4 series Tweed (discussed here), I have been hooked on this very special cloth. As mentioned previously, the colours are deceptively beautiful. A Harris Tweed yarn will routinely contain seven or eight different coloured wools, which are all blended together and then spun to create an amazingly rich texture of colour and I'm afraid these pictures fail to do the cloth justice.

Harris Tweed Clarks Desert Boots worn red socks from Uniqlo and wool trousers from COS.

This a tweed still woven by pedal-powered looms in the homes of Scottish sheep herders out in the outermost fringe of the British Isles. It has been this way since 1846. I now understand the history and the provenance of the cloth. There is something quite special about the Isle of Harris, Lewis and that northern chain of Hebridean islands. The materials and the colours are redolent of the sea, and the grass, the rugged life, the farming. I'm so pleased that a company like Clarks has realised the beauty of the cloth. I believe that the end result is a fitting tribute to both the cloth and the desert boot.

It seems that I'm not the only one taken with my new boots...Patch (the patchwork tweed dog from Muji) has found a new friend.

Treasured items... Will Hudson

Few items of dress are as necessary yet neglected than socks. Far too often they are an after thought that all too easily can become undervalued and mismatched before the odd hole, wear and tear forces them to hide in embarrassment inside their leather incarceration. The festive season is one of the few occasions in which socks are given a stage to perform. Wrapped up in all manner of finery and fanfare, watching cousins hang proudly above fireplaces and prominently positioned on the edges beds, socks are presented to hard-to-buy-for friends and they-have-everything-already family members. Just when they think they're about to receive the recognition that they truly deserve, they are met with indifference, scrunched up and used as a protective cotton shield around more valuable items. Dependable yet derided, I feel for socks at this time of year. Thankfully, there are a few people out there who cherish them and Will Hudson, founder and director of It's Nice That, sits amongst them with Paul Smith's iconic, spectrum showcasing stripes peaking between the creative camouflage of his everyday uniform. With an eye ever scanning for niceties it pauses over the festive go-to gift. Here, he tells us why... 

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Will Hudson and the striped splash of something unexpected

"For anyone that knows me, you're probably surprised to find me invited to contribute any thoughts about fashion. For anyone that doesn't know me I should explain – I wear the same jeans and grey T-shirt or white shirt most of the year (even when not at work). This isn't because I'm not interested in fashion but because I sit slightly outside the average percentile that most clothes are manufactured for. I'm 6'4 and 'heavy' (this isn't the place to reveal certain information) and find it difficult to find clothes I feel comfortable in, let alone I'd leave the house in.

As a result I have always opted to play it safe. The little luxury I do have though comes in the 'one size fits most' category and the smallest of things can make a difference. As a result, Paul Smith socks, with all their colour, bring a smile even when paired with the plainest ensemble." Will Hudson

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Sunspel blows out one hundred and fifty candles

Sunspel have spent the last one hundred and fifty years perfecting the art of timeless clothing. This national institution has been making the finest English underwear and t-shirts since 1860. All of Sunspel's clothes are handmade resulting in wardrobe staples that feel deeply luxurious yet have an understated elegance and sophistication. Throughout their history they have experimented with new styles, fabric structures, knitting techniques and have collaborated with the likes of Paul Smith, Margaret Howell, Thom Browne and Kris Van Assche to name but a few. With the appointment of JW Anderson at the creative helm and the opening of their first stand alone store on Redchurch Street, 2010 has undoubtedly been a great year.  

To help them blow out one hundred and fifty candles, they have invited several leading lights from the world of design to dig deep into their archives and offer a fresh interpretation of a few of their much loved staples. Jean Touitou, the creative brains behind A.P.C has designed a classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 while the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.  Much loved Aussie skincare brand Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas. Local esteemed tailor Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polos that Sean Connery wore in the sixties whilst playing 007. Derek Harris, of Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee, designed to be worn under, you guessed it, motorcycle leathers...

A.P.C  designed classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 whilst the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.

Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polo.

Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas.

Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee.

All in all this is celebratory capsule collection that I'll happily raise my glass to for now and hopefully get my hands on at the end of the year. Here's to Sunspel.

Style Salvage Speaks to... Hentsch Man

Back in May we discovered a new menswear brand whose design ethos and approach to retail struck a chord with us. As Steve was enjoying his guiltiest of pleasures, lying in a bubble bath whilst listening to the Monocle Weekly he learned about Hentsch Man. After hearing about the labels first pop up store venture we have followed the progress. Fast forward a few months and Hentsch Man is currently enjoying its second pop up venture which is open until 23rd December.

As mentioned in the previous post, the brand evolved from a seemingly simple search (in theory not practice) for the perfect white shirt. The two friends (Max and Alexia) set about designing their perfect shirt and when they felt they got it right, they placed a small order. After the shirts were soon snapped up by friends and family, the duo set about expanding their offering without compromising their core values of simplicity and function. Over the last year, the pair have added trousers, boxer shorts, footwear and luggage to create a more complete menswear collection. The collection has now found it's second temporary home in Princes Arcade off Jermyn Street. To celebrate we caught up with Alexia Hentsch and explored the new space and the evolving Hentsch Man offering...

The pop up store sign complete with festive decoration.

SS: Hentsch Man evolved from the seemingly simple search for the perfect white shirt. How did the quest for this wardrobe staple evolve in to the brand we see today?
Alexia Hentsch: Well, we started out thinking about our perfect white shirt and once we had made about three hundred we sold it to family and friends, soon selling out . As I come from a branding background we made a whole brand book and catalogue and all sorts of things to go with it which talked about a brand which really didn't exist yet. We got a little carried away and stated taking this brand book to everyone, places like Bergdorf, Harvey Nichols and all these people and they were really impressed with the idea but the product was lacking, we needed more than white shirts. So we went away for a year and came back with a full collection. We realised fairly early on that we didn't want to just sell white shirts. Now every season we add a new piece or a few garments. So first we had shirts, then moved on to trousers, jackets, sweaters and shorts...adding items as we go grow.

SS: As well as your own collection, you offer pieces picked up from your travels...
Alexia Hentsch: Yes we do, when we started developing the brand we found amazing products which exist and have been around for a long time and are products we really like. Rather than imitate them we acquired them to create the Hentsch Man look. Things like the Mediterranean espadrilles for the summer, Venetian velvet slippers, the sneakers...we try and have a new sneaker pick, hats, bags, so many things that we really like which exist already.

Furlane slippers and espadrilles

SS: Your values can be seen in the quality of our materials and production. How easy was it easy sourcing such quality mills, factories and skilled craftsman from across Europe?
Alexia Hentsch: Well finding them is pretty easy actually because there is such a manufacturing history in Europe and the industry still exists but it is just more expensive. Finding them is easy but sustaining it is hard. As we grow it gets more difficult. We are still in Europe and only in Europe which is great but I understand why luxury products cost what they do and why some brands choose to make things in China as it means they can increase volumes. In terms of local manufacturing we have quite a few funny stories, for example when it comes to our Venetian slippers we are working with a guy who produces them from his kitchen. So we can't bombard someone like that with huge orders in limited time lines and instead he's like 'I will deliver them when they are ready' so you can't really place orders with him and when it comes to colours he gives us what he have. The production can be unreliable but it is part of the charm as well. It is these types of pieces which can really accent our own collections and it is something we can use for our pop up ventures.

SS: A key element of the brand is this idea of building a gentleman's wardrobe and this is mirrored by the development of the brand...
Alexia Hentsch: Yes, exactly! I keep using this phrase which my business partner Max hates because he thinks its cheap but I like to use it anyway...we are trying to build a one stop shop for men to shop. A store for men who we think don't particularly like to shop and one which caters for all of their wardrobe needs. Obviously this will be for a particular look but we can dress them head to toe.

A colourful felt trilby.

SS: The pop up stores can be great in the sense that these men can come in and try on styles and then moving forward they know their size and can order online.
Alexia Hentsch: Yes and even though each season where we add new styles and cuts, we always keep the old ones as well as we build our inventory. So if you know your size in your favourite Jack shirt or trousers you can always go back and find them and they will always be there. We really want to build our offering along with our customer network.

SS: Is there a typical Hentsch Man?
Alexia Hentsch: Certainly. Although there is a whole crew of Monocle-ites, thanks to the two radio shows, and you can see them as soon as they walk through the door. You can tell that those guys have recently listened to the podcast and have visited us accordingly. Those guys tend to buy a lot of the more simpler stuff, like our white shirts and our simpler cut stuff. Then you get a bunch of more eccentric, dapper guys who love nothing more than a pair of pistachio pants. There are some older gentleman who love wearing our brighter colours and we love catering for them. It also depends upon where we are positioned. When we were in Notting Hill originally we had quite a younger, creative crew of guys, whereas now because of the footfall we get many more gentlemen.

The new store front in Princes Arcade.

SS: How have the two pop up store ventures compared?
Alexia Hentsch: It has been quite different. Obviously the foot fall is a lot better here but it is the Christmas season so it is difficult to tell as there is just a huge consuming element right now. This one has been great though because we are open twice as long. Weekends were a lot busier in the Notting Hill store whereas here, weekends are so much quieter and weekdays are really busy. It is a different vibe here, a little more serious although we've had a couple of really fun, busy events. I think I'd prefer to go back to a slightly more trendy area, we might not do as much business as such but we would be in the right place for attracting the right customer base. At the moment we are seeing older men who might love our trousers but they might not be as interested in our brand. Ultimately, we are going to be targeting a younger, working guy.

SS: When you started the brand did you envisage having a physical store or have you just taken advantage of the current retail landscape?
Alexia Hentsch: It really wasn't part of our idea at all, we were originally purely focused on online and then try wholesale. I actually read an article by Tyler in Monocle (The Retail Issue) in which he discussed how retail was suffering and how councils should fund small shop owners to keep spaces alive. I thought that this was a really great idea so I contacted a council and they obviously told me 'no' but it did make me think. I then dealt with it by finding the right space. So one day it was just a good idea and the next it was a reality but we never thought that is where we would be. Now we are thinking we'd like our own physical store. We think we'll do another pop up store for an additional season or two and then we'd like to be rooted. It would be great to have a permanent space which we can use as our office and showroom, store front. At the moment though as the line develops, the pop up stores are great because they allow us to make some noise and do something exciting.

A selection of colourful Joe trousers.

SS: The white shirt was the thing you designed for Hentsch Man but what was the last?
Alexia Hentsch: Just now we have only recently finished designing a sports jacket to be sampled for AW10. This is currently being made for now actually, I've not seen the finished sample yet. We are also designing sweaters but I'm not 100% happy with them. So this is what we have going on for AW10 but we have shorts for SS10 which is really exciting because we didn't have them last summer. Plus we have five new shirts in addition to the original Jack which is really exciting.

SS: How does the design dynamic work, do you work alongside Max?
Alexia Hentsch: I work on the designs alongside a pattern cutter and I do a lot of the research. I'm inspired by older fashion, especially from the 50s and 60s and then I get together with a pattern cutter and we have a play around with samples until we get something we like. We really want the direction of the brand to be simple, not to be over designed, just a simple cut with quality fabrics. So it is really more of a research process as opposed to a design one. The search for the fabrics is the most time consuming aspect of it all.

A table of Jack shirts.

SS: You've mentioned being inspired by the 50 and 60s, if you could go back in time to any experience any moment in style is this where you would choose?
Alexia Hentsch: Definitely, the 50s and 60s. It is so popular now because we see it on television and movies. I am obsessed with the art direction and costumes of Mad Men and I'm excited about seeing A Single Man when it comes out. Films like The Thomas Crown Affair are so inspiring, those guys knew how to dress. In terms of my own personal tastes I'd like to go back to the turn of the century when people were incredibly well dressed, they dressed up for the occasion, black tie for dinner, tophats and that kind of thing.

SS: I agree, it is a shame that over the last few decades it seems that men especially have lost the enjoyment of dressing...
Alexia Hentsch: Especially in the sense of dressing up. This is why I like this area because although it might not necessarily fit the brand you see such characters. The older generation and to some extent the younger guys who still dress up. They have canes, bowler hats and this area is so colorful. People often ask why I started a menswear brand and not women's and this is exactly why, the pleasure of a well dressed man. You see well dressed women everywhere and it has become the main feature of the fashion world. if you go to other cultures, for example India, men's attire is so much more elaborate and ornate than women's. What I like about western menswear dress is that the actual dressing is very structured and it hasn't changed to much but what you can change is the little details. Even if it is the look of today with jeans and sneakers, make them good sneakers with good jeans..but I do hark back to a more dressed up era.

A felt trilby which comes from a collaboration with a Parisian based miliner, Le cerise sur le chapeau.

SS: Is there an item of clothing or accessory that you'd like to see more men wear?
Alexia Hentsch: Jackets..good blazers, all the time. Hats as well. A good hat is a lot of fun but you just don't see it anymore. For us though, the hats have done spectacularly well. I guess they are brightly coloured so stick out to people but it is great to see.

SS: What are you current favourite pieces in store?
Alexia Hentsch: I think I will always like the white Jack shirt a little more than the rest but I love our trousers. The cut is really nice, tapered and long, reminiscent of the 60s really and they look really great.

Bags originally inspired by the postman's delivery bags in Argentina are now used as chic weekend bags.

SS: Finally, would you be able to share a few address book recommendation to our readers (hairdressers, tailors, cafes... anything you like really) which we will duly add to our Map.
Alexia Hentsch: I'd say the new APC store definitively. That great bookstore on Lambs Conduit street, Persephone. Oh and that lovely bakery in Bloomsbury, Bea's of Bloomsbury .

Hentsch Man's latest pop up store in Princes Arcade on Jermyn Street is open until 23rd December.

Advent - Day Fourteen

So, here we are, day fourteen of our Advent calendar and I am full of cold. Despite my incessant sniffles and grumbles, the show must go on. Today we feature the commercial desires of one of the most active men in the industry, Steve Monaghan. Sane Communications is an agency for a selection of some of the finest fashion and lifestyle brands and covetable products on the market. His client list reads like a who's who of menswear and includes oi polloi, Lavenham, Bedouin, Happy Socks and Penfield to name just a few. Here's what's on his Christmas list...

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DARK HORN HANDLE WALKING STICK


"A walking cane and a field spaniel. The field spaniel would be called Murdoch X and the cane would come from here."

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Inspired... Marwood AW13

As London Collections: Men is only a few hectic weeks and with the festive break somewhat inconveniently popping up right in the middle of proceedings, throwing a spanner shaped mince pie in the works, it is about time that we began our seasonal preview. Over the coming month we will sit down with as many of our favourite design talents as possible to hear all about their inspirations for the autumn/winter 13/14 season. To kick off this whirlwind of tea and biscuit fuelled curiosity, we headed to Dalston and in to the warmth of Becky French's shared studio to take a look at her latest mood board for Marwood.

The emergence and continued rise to prominence of Marwood has been a fittingly delightful journey. We've been enthusiastic passengers ever since we first encountered French's working sketchbook of research and exploration in 2010 and watch on in pleasant surprise as the label trundled through its landscape of carefully crafted lace on to an ever more texture rich vision. Season after season, French's destination is always to produce beautiful neck wear that can be loved by it's owner and worn time and time again. As she embarks on the next leg of what is always a tantalising trip, French talks us through her route and introduces us to a world of English eccentricities and Gallic sartorial peacocking...

"I was thinking about and looking at journeys. Train journeys mainly because I found myself going to Devon, it's a beautiful trip going back and forth and I'm from Somerset originally so I know the route well. I always prefer going by train because you can soak up the scenery. Whilst travelling back from spring/summer 13 showroom meetings in Paris, I began thinking about this season. So, a number of photos on my inspiration wall are snapshots from these journeys along various tracks. I've got loads of them. They document how the landscape and colours changed and the result is a blur. I wanted the collection to be a journey through an eccentric English landscape and an interpretation of classic and familiar scenes in to textures within the ties. From passing cricket grounds and admiring their jumpers into Aran and blurred countryside in to herringbone and the sighting of a kingfisher evolved in to something more abstract. I always want the collections to be heavily textured but for this season I was keen to explore a more graphic side for the jacquards.

I was chatting to Scott Trindle about the look book for this season and the inspiration for the styling and the mood that I wanted to express can best be understood by looking Jean Cocteau. In particular, Cocteau in 'The Mirror and the Mask'. It's an amazing book. I picked it up from a car boot sale and it's one of the first books that I looked at when I started Marwood. It includes an image by Irving Penn which sums up everything. I keep going back to it. It is such a strong pose, sheer confidence, and I love everything about it but especially the combination of textures and pattern. The look book will play with staged poses and the styling."

A quick look at Becky French's mood board for Marwood AW13
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Marwood's is a journey that will never provoke that all too familiar whine of 'are we nearly there yet?' because the route that Becky French steers us is just too beautiful. Rich, diverse and full of surprise, these are trips that we all long to take.

British Remains Series Two

Now, you might think it a tad odd to write about a line of t shirts in the midst of one of the coldest months of December that I can remember but I just couldn't resist turning my attention to the second drop from British Remains. You might recall back in (oh so warm) July that I introduced the label after one particular design caught my eye and captured my imagination. As they could not find any decent printed t shirts for themselves, Andrew Bunney and Daryl Saunders took matters in to their own creative hands. The duo have talked for many years about the things they like, hate and mourn about the nation and British Remains will explore some of those feelings.

The second series, just like the first, is a tightly edited offering, with each item encapsulating  precisely what the label is all about. As the debut offering  gave the printed cotton treatment to London brickwork, toilet signage and Generation X, the sophomore series  celebrates facets of Britain and localised symbols that would ordinarily not be known outside of these shores. This time the pair highlight a prison constructed completely using convict labour in 1874 and later the sight of a rooftop protest over visiting rights staged by IRA prisoners, celebrate the life of Robert Fraser and offer a selection of treasures... 

LOOT! What a bounty...a few of the disputed treasures include the Rosetta Stone, Elgin Marbles, Koh-i-Noor and Sultanganj Buddha. 

Wish you were here... HMP Wormwood Prison has certainly had a colourful past and just last year was listed as a Grade II building, principally because of its distinctive gatehouse as depicted on the shirt. 

Robert Fraser. Fraser was a noted London art dealer and gallerist during the swinging sixties and beyond. Paul McCartney described him as "one of the most influential people of the London Sixties scene." His exhibitions helped to launch and promote the work of many important new British and American artists including Peter Blake, Richard Hamilton, Gilbert and George, Andy Warhol, Ed Ruscha and later Jean-Michel Basquiat to name just a few.

The once challenging, political, humourous, marginalised printed tees of old have seemingly lost their way no thanks to the mass produced varieties hanging on rails across high streets near and far. Bunney and Saunders wanted to reignite a printed passion and they certainly have with this blogger.

Advent - Day Eight

We have long admired the snapshots of style that Tommy Ton captures for his own site Jak & Jil and those for GQ. Tommy's images are at times breathtaking and frequently more inspiring than the happenings of any catwalk. His roving eye scans and focuses on the details that are often overlooked but are in fact so very important. Tommy can zoom in on a contrasting cuff, tailoring quirk, novel print combination and sartorial scenes from one hundred paces. He undoudtedly has the eye. With this in mind we just had to ask him to reveal the one item he hopes to unwrap this year and he plumped for a beautiful pair of Northampton crafted boots...

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TRICKER"S MALTON BROGUE BOOTS

Tricker's Malton Brogue boots with a Commando sole

"For Christmas, I'd love to receive a pair of Tricker's Malton Brogue boots with a Commando sole. It's funny how long I've wanted a pair but yet I haven't had any time while visiting London to go to the Tricker's shop. My time is always occupied by fashion week and rather than ordering a pair online, I'd like to properly get fitted and fully experience the Tricker's experience. Ideally, I'd love to customize a pair but I also really love the Vibram wedge sole on the pairs they collaborate with Present London. Brogue boots are a classic staple in my wardrobe and to receive a pair would be the ultimate Christmas gift."

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Advent - Day Seven

The eventful year of 2008 has certainly been a year of the collaboration (the highlights for me being Acne x Lanvin and Raf Simons x Fred Perry) and there is certainly time to squeeze a few more in before the year ends. I stumbled across my first three way on hypebeast yesterday and the below image permeated the thick cobwebs surrounding my brain and gave it a wake up slap.

New York-based contemporary brand Band of Outsiders, United Arrows’ Beauty & Youth and Japanese online magazine honeyee.com have worked together to create a bowtie and necktie. This certainly sounds like a lot of hands to create two relatively simple accessories but the resulting bow tie and in particular, how it has been styled in this shot (it reminds me of Christmas morning for some reason) is worthy of applause and I would be happy to receive this in my stocking!

Inside the modern gentry

Inside the Modern Gentry

During a moment of madness I decided to venture in to Central London to do a spot of Christmas shopping. I have to confess that rather than buying gifts for loved ones and friends, I had myself in mind but I have been a good boy all year so I deserve the odd treat, right? The scenes on Oxford and Regent Street were as I feared. Busy and chaotic. I escaped the manic scenes and found myself on the sanctuary that is Savile Row. After perusing the well stocked racks at bstore I navigated myself past the mind boggling queue outside of Abercrombie and Fitch and was drawn to the Alma Showroom. I needed to restore my faith in consumerism. I needed to explore the Modern Gentry. So armed with my camera I ventured inside...

E. Tautz bow ties and handkerchiefs.

I introduced the pop up store on Thursday but I've not had a chance to marvel at the space until this weekend. I missed out on the launch party last week after being struck down with wisdom tooth pain (one day in the New Year, I'll be getting them removed...gulp) and I had no intention of missing out on examing the luxury goods in person. Jewellery designer Hannah Martin, sporting and military tailors E. Tautz and shoe maker Lodger have come together in the wonderful setting of the Alma Showroom on Vigo Street. This pop up store offers Christmas shopping opportunities that I'd only ever dreamed about before now.

A trunk of E. Tautz goodies.

After walking off the busy street and on to the leather flooring (yes, leather flooring!) of the Alma Showroom I felt at home. I'd certainly love to have these designs at my fingertips each morning and who wouldn't want an Electric Angel light installation by Yorgo Lykouria in their hallway!? I only expected to stay long enough to take a few interior shots but in the end I spent over an hour in this snug, welcoming store.

Alpaca mittens.

As mentioned last week, representatives from each brand were on hand to explain the detailed processes involved in creating each of these unique products. I certainly borrowed their ears and learnt so much, including information about the sheep used for E. Tautz's alpaca wool and Hannah Martin's design inspiration.

The Shetland knits are of course handknitted and the felt badges are sewn on by hand.

Ever since I first learned about the resurrection of E. Tautz I have been a strong supporter of Patrick Grant's vision for the historic sporting and military tailors. I need only the smallest excuse to marvel over the quality of the designs and the luxury of the cloths and wools used. E. Tautz is a label which champions the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear.

E. Tautz knitwear by the fire.

After speaking to Patrick back in March I was taken by his belief that provenance is key. On the relaunch of the label for AW09 he had built up a strong network of local supplies. Aside from the sweaters which were knitted in Shetland, everything else could be picked up by bicycle. The British facet of the brand is certainly not a gimmick because Patrick and his team are striving for the best. It is refreshing to hear that brands do not need to scour the earth for the best, sometimes it can be found or even nurtured on ones doorstep.

Hannah Martin sparkles

Out of the three Hannah Martin is the brand I am least familiar with. Of course I have heard so much about this hugely successful CSM graduate but this store visit provided my first opportunity to inspect her designs in person. I was blown away. Her luxurious and decadent collections are described as ‘jewellery for men, that girlfriends will steal’ and if I had a piece in my possession I'd certainly have to sleep with one eye open from fear of Susie removing it from my tight grasp.

Hannah Martin's jewels including Vincent’s Empty Sovereign Ring

In an interview with Elliott earlier this year the fine jewellery designer mentioned her belief that "the craft of Hatton Garden and the traditions it still has, sit perfectly alongside those of say, Savile Row, and the art of tailoring." This space confirms her belief and in the process has redefined my understanding of luxury men's jewellery.

My favourite piece. A bracelet by Hannah Martin

Like E. Tautz, Lodger is a brand that we have vocally supported for some time. Nathan Brown and his team at Lodger have an irrational passion for beautiful shoes and this has been infectious in recent months. In fact, I have seen my shoe collection grow and my bank balance fall all because of this footwear brand. The mix of continuous design, in combination with cutting edge technology and traditional craftsmanship makes it a truly unique shoe company.

Lodger...reminded that I'll soon have a pair of Kudu boots on my feet.

The display of shoes provided further flirtatious galnces and I only just managed to control the temptations because I was reminded of the impending delivery of my Kudu boots. My feet only have a couple of weeks to wait until they find themselves protected from the winter elements by that reformed strong hide.

More temptation from Lodger

Upon first reading about this one off collaboration I was somewhat surprised by the trio of names. However, after seeing their designs side by side it is clear that these are brands united. United by a dedication to luxury in men's attire. Each have core values of exclusivity, attention to detail, and timelessness. Each one is a brand which deserves to be celebrated. To further nail home this point I point you in the direction of Showstudio. Here you will find an exclusive video project which best demonstrates their individual aesthetics and collective role in catering for a Modern Gentry. I will finish off with some good news. In my previous post, I expressed my wish that the store would be around for longer (it was due to close on the 5th December)...well it seems my prayers have been answered. It will be open for an additional week (so until the 12th December).

A selection of Lodger shoes sit by the side of historic E. Tautz in front of a busy street scene.

Catering for the Modern Gentry

What started out as started as a conversation between Patrick Grant and Hannah Martin about bringing together different facets of handmade British gentleman’s kit has resulted in a fabulous pop up store. Whilst waving the flag for Great British luxury, jewellery designer Hannah Martin, ready to wear tailor E. Tautz and shoe maker Lodger have come together for a one-off collaboration called The Modern Gentry. The idea is to gather, exclusively under one roof, three brands which encapsulate the true definition of luxury. The result is my idea of retail heaven. This pop up store offers a Christmas shopping experience far removed from the manic scenes on nearby Oxford Street.

Inside the Modern Gentry Lodger shoes sit under E. Tautz tailoring with Hannah Martin's jewellery complimented by a beautiful light sculpture courtesy of Yorgo Lykouria.

The London based trio have set up camp at the Alma Showroom (just a cufflink's throw away from Savile Row) for talks and appointments until the 5th December. Representatives from each brand will be on hand to explain the detailed processes involved in creating each of these unique products. Under the cloak of Dazed Digital I caught up with Hannah Martin, Patrick Grant of E. Tautz and Lodger's very own Nathan Brown to find out more about the project. The Modern Gentry explores the definition of the modern luxury and I asked each of them what British Luxury meant to them. For Patrick, luxury is about 'scarcity... the things that many men want but very few can have." For Nathan Brown it means "beautiful design, thoughtful craftsmanship, impeccable service." Similarly for Hannah Martin it is "about integrity, timelessness and craftsmanship." The interesting thing here is that in all of the responses not one of these ideas touch on the concept of 'modern' because the values of true luxury are timeless. It should be about creating something that will last, both in terms of quality and style. When we discussed the perceived decline of luxury back in March it was clear that many luxury brands had lost sight of these virtues. It should provide pieces which can be handed down to the next generation. We are surrounded by fast fashion and impossibly cheap products. For these three brands, British luxury is the antithesis of this. In short, the Modern Gentry is a wonderful one-off project borne from a shared commitment to the creation of gentleman's requisites... I just wish that it was around for longer.

On the third day of Christmas...

Last month we repeated our shared belief that the real beauty of menswear lies in the details as we celebrated the humble hankie. There are amazing styling perks afforded by a handkerchief which most men simply do not realise; any average or worn out jacket can be instantly livened up with an inexpensive, casually folded pocket handkerchief. So behind the third imaginary door of our advent colour are a selection of hankies from Thornton and Peel available at Liberty.

We really can't decided which hankie we prefer from the selection available from Liberty, the rabbit or the ship... or maybe the pigeon. Our head scratching was multiplied when we subsequently disovered the Thornton and Peel website. We want it all.