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Showing posts with label SS11. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SS11. Show all posts

Casely-Hayford SS11: The Light Through the Darkness


Much of the last twelve months have whizzed right by me, a great deal has been forgotten for one reason or another. There have, however, been a few moments which have seen the dazzlingly fast rotating clock hands stop completely, allowing me ample opportunity to soak up the scene before me. Thankfully time was stopped during my visit to the SS11 Showroom Next Door and my heart still skips a beat or two as memories of Casely-Hayford's The Light Through the Darkness fills my memory. Having enthused over the collection back in September, it is my absolute pleasure to offer first sight of the look book with you...

Cover image; Circeo washed shirt jacket in deep red cotton, Azuil collarless shirt in white Panama cotton, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey.

Casely-Hayford's fifth collection consolidates their now signature style of relaxed masculine proportions, fused with an injection of London's cocktail of youth culture. Since its inception, the label has explored the intriguing duality of English sartorialism and British anarchy but now shapes a unique aesthetic that sees the emergence of the 'Sartorial Nomad' from the shadows of the darkened sensibility of their Afro Punk of the season before. Here, Casely-Hayford visit the the idea of the transcultural traveler, whose identity is an amalgamation of the many countries and influences that once or now surround him.

Looking at this collection, I'm reminded of the photography of Etienne Dehau. In his book about the Bedouin tribes and nomadic peoples of Arabia, the photographer took us to the heart of this immense region, tracking the ancient incense route and the nomadic Bedouins. Dehau's wonderful photographs illustrated the culture of these Arabs – a word that originally meant ‘people of the desert’ – as they move from camp to camp within a land that is both hostile and overwhelming. For SS11, Casely-Hayford have reimagined the nomad. The taletend design duo turn to the purity and tranquil energy of the Bedouin nomad in order to seek out something real and something minimal negating the excess so prevalent during the last decade. The Light Through the Darkness communicates ideas of a rebirth for a new decade. There is a discordant synergy is brought to the forefront of the collection as exquisite tailoring is worn over nomadic white shirts, referencing looks often seen in the confluence of London's East End. Here, the cut is unrestrictive and loose yet it still manages to remain masculine and athletic. Fabrics are natural, colours earthy and the silhouette voluminous but minimal...

Left; Moonstone jacket in grey tarmac wool, Lapis pale grey herringbone drawstring jacket, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey, Brett olive jersey l/s t shirt and Turbeville allotment creeper. 
Right; Luxor stone cotton workwear jacket with turned black hem and Cinnabar navy ribbed cotton fatigue pants.
 
Left; Volga gathered coat in greige wool,  Azul white Panama cotton collarless shirt, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Turbeville allotment creeper. 
Right; Circeo washed shirt jacket in grey/check reverse cotton, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Aldous 2SB, greige wool jacket, Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt. Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey and Isherwood brown leather sandals. 
Right; Marmor marine cotton knit cardigan with Touareg pattern front, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Arandis grey ribbed cotton waistcoat, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.
Right; Tropf bi-colour minimal Mac, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy/black cotton,  Afyon scoop neck stone crushed jersey t-shirt, Cinnabar stone ribbed cotton fatigue pants.
Right; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Anatol white cotton Chino, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy in khaki cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.
Right; Belvoir navy canvas reversible coat, Agra bellows pocket waistcoat in navy organic cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Left; Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.
Right; Aldous 2SB greige wool jacket, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Basalto flat front trouser in greige wool and Bentley brown leather quilted slipper. 

Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Look book credits
Photography: Katinka Herbert
Photography assistant: Christopher Kennedy
Art direction: Casely-Hayford & Son
Model: Yussef Yu, Fine Artist.
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Omar Kashoura's New Ease

Although fashion tends not to acknowledge it, there is a make do and mend attitude for the mere mortal consumers amongst us. Omar Kashoura decided to channel the attitude of the ration book dictacted spirit of 1940s which has lurked in the shadows subsequent decades coming to the fore when times get tough. When pockets are empty and wallets are slim, there tends to be a reversion to all things classic and this collection sees Kashoura outfit a self sufficient city sartorialist. Drawing inspiration from his own city lifestyle, he creates a collection designed for every day survival in an unforgiving metropolis. Throughout he revisits the idea of outfitting the modern gentleman and has created a collection that adapts with the demanding lifestyle of the wearer given the current economic woes. SS11 is a collection of basics that every man needs in his wardrobe. However, despite the austerity of the climate, Kashoura chose to invest in beautiful fabrications to create a featherlight yet versatile and highly practical collection. Knitwear and jerseys are aching to be touched. Having had the opportunity to marvel at the line in person a few times, I long for the opportunity to snap up a few pieces for myself. In the meantime, I am pleased to share the SS11 look book with you...

Look Book Credits... Styling by Julian Ganio. Grooming by Ian Jeffries. Photography by Alex Klesta. Shoes by Edward Green.

The Alex Klesta shot look book showcases Kashoura's self sufficient city sartorialist perfectly. Here is a man that is still making the most of the twenty four hour metropolis of the previous but now, taking the time to enjoy the changing scenery. For SS11 is all about a new elegance, a new ease.

Illustrating Menswear Day SS11: E. Tautz

Two weeks have passed since Menswear Day but there is still so much left unsaid. Presentations, catwalk shows and film screenings all celebrated the exciting diversity of menswear design talent which uniquely exists in this capital of ours. It was exciting to see stalwarts of Savile Row sit so comfortably alongside high street regulars, established designers and exciting new talent alike. The entire schedule helped cause a sartorial stir or two whilst collectively flying the flag of menswear and tiring me out in the process. One of the most enjoyable experiences was the salon style presentation at E. Tautz in the Navy Board Rooms. It was perfectly fitting of this particular Savile Row tailoring house: a highly intimate, personal service whereby Patrick Grant introduced each look in a wonderfully personal and engaging manner. 

As you should all know by now, E. Tautz is a label which champions the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear. It creates simple cutting paired with bold accents of colour and pattern - cloths with scale and texture; big checks, fine flannels, and stripes. For SS11 they continued to present a modern and elegant aesthetic while fondly glancing back in time. They've cut their cloth with a modish sharpness in crisp wool fresco's, hopsacks in wool and silk, a selection of crisp linens and stiff drills. Last summer, Patrick an his team were inspired by the idea of the Englishmen on holiday but for this season they looked closer to home. There are hints of Brighton Rock with the clipped drainpipes, full collared button downs, pin tight knots and harrington coats. Both Gordon Richardson and Patrick Grant have seemingly been inspired by Greene's novel. While a stripe or two remind us of the British seaside in the height of summer. The collection manages to encapsulate all that is charming about spending the warmer months by the English coast. For me this collection celebrates a quiet but stylish summer in Blighty where you can 99s, sandcastles, beach huts, surprisingly chilly seas and so on. Of course there are moments where a North wind might blow a chill your way but Grant has taken that in to account and offers a navy fresco wool trench teamed with a cobalt blue sea island t-shirt and denim blue trousers. Just lovely. Perhaps I'm biased because I've spent so much time by the English coast but Lauren Macaulay manages to capture the essence of collection with her illustrations... 

Illustrations by Lauren Macaulay

One of Patrick Grant's main reasons for relaunching E Tautz was because he felt that there was nobody creating beautiful, chic, English menswear. He identified a desire for something handmade, beautifully cut and with English cloth at its heart. The label offers simple tailoring with a little something extra added, a bit of pomp, a bit of colour. This collection once again demonstrates chic menswear but with a sense of Englishness that has been lost over the years. The revived house strives to make stylish clothes to which a wardrobe can be built from. Grant's ultimate aim for E Tautz is to secure a position close to the one it held in the 1910s, when Europe and America knew E. Tautz as England's finest sporting tailor and their salons in London and Paris were dressing the world’s most elegant men. With each season, Grant edges closer to his goal.

Illustrating Menswear Day SS11: James Long

For SS11, James Long presents a hallucinogenic inducing assortment of psychedelic rebels, rich in colour and texture. Referencing iconic drifter and anti hero films such as Midnight Cowboys and My own Private Idaho whilst mixing in recent experiences at Woodstock, the collection celebrates a relaxed time of psychedelic living. Long offers a bright and bold collection, where the man who wears it stands alone on a deserted stretch on a highway, nonchalantly flicking out his thumb for a ride.

Long's juxtaposition of references and fabrics gives us a collection that is both sharp and clean, yet loose and elongated. Realistic but at the same time colourful, creative and almost dreamlike. Texture is always an important facet of Long's creations and there are a number of items here that begged to be stroked as they hitchhiked their way past on the catwalk. The abundance of fabric patch worked together works as a representation of the myriad of different youth cultures that make up the character of the collection. For example, we see trippy knitted patchwork in silver grey wools worn over acid bright silk and chiffon tailored shirts, paired with cobalt blue cotton and lightweight indigo mohair. Elsewhere we see hints of liquorice and tobacco coloured leathers against desert dried denim. This cocktail of fabrics and textures lead to a hazy state of mind and feeling for SS11. Now, I have spent a significant amount of time admiring the backstage shots over on Dazed Digital following Menswear Day but even they could not fully translate the true beauty of the collection. Thankfully for us, Lauren Macaulay has spent the day with paintbrush in hand and the resulting artwork manages to capture the collections wondrous sense of texture. Light mohair, trippy patchwork knitwear and acid bright silk shirts brought to life by watercolours.




Illustrations by Lauren Macaulay

Illustrating Menswear Day SS11: Topman Design

Showcased in the beautiful surroundings of the Royal Opera House, Topman Design's SS11 collection took its inspiration from the bustling backstreets of Brighton. Richardson and his design team looked to the varied shop fronts and the pieces are influenced by the bounty of vinyl and vintage stores that can be found behind the facade of this classic British seaside town. The result is a collection with duality, think Brighton Rock and Quadraphenia. Super sharp tailoring combined with attention grabbing printed shirts on the one side and a selection of colourful casual wear on the other.

Now, I have to confess that there were the odd looks that left myself and Lauren scratching our heads (the high waisted belted shorts were of particular concern) but the eclectic colour palette, ranging from apple green to dark burgundy which featured throughout playful knitted sweaters and light coats were something to get excited over. The real highlight was seeing graphics of old vinyl, Polaroid cameras and foxes applied to the bold knitwear. Everyone wants a fox on their jumper, don't they?For those of you who are unsure, let Lauren Macaulay's illustrations persuade you.



Illustrations by Lauren Macaulay

Illustrating Menswear Day SS11: Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon's SS11 collection references a feeling that is all too familiar. Inspired by the nostalgic feeling of never getting to go anywhere on holiday. Having waved off countless colleagues and friends as they escape the city for a few days in the sun I have instead spent the holiday season beavering away in the capital. In the midst of my own cabin fever I can truly appreciate Shannon's wanderlust of trips he is yet to take.

Holiday and festival snaps taken by friends and family combined with images from his parent's adventure to Nairobi all form the backdrop. Subtle nods to Passa Passa raggae videos, knock off ethnic tourist trinkets and raggae artist Dillinger collide to create pieces rich in depth and texture. Shannon's signature graphic prints and bold colour palette are omnipresent, be it through his experiments with camo prints on jersey and denim or the juxtaposition of optic white against sunshine friendly pastel shades. As the crowned Prince of London sportswear, the collection showcases breathable fabrics and nylons against crisp cotton shirts, while mesh shorts sit over dyed denim. Multi-textured knitwear in odd proportions sits alongside block coloured anoraks and the latest incarnation of the hugely popular Eastpak collaboration. Lauren Macaulay once again picks out everything that caught my eye during the show and brings back a real sense of the show with her illustrations...

Illustrations by Lauren Macaulay

Illustrating Menswear Day SS11: Lou Dalton

For SS11 Lou Dalton took inspiration from the nomadic lifestyle and the unconformity of the Romany people whilst giving a nod to the work of D.H Lawrence and Emily Bronte's Wuthering Heights. A sense of travel and fascination with different cultures was a common theme of Menswear Day and Dalton was particular taken with a nomadic lifestyle. There was a definite sense of crumpled classics throughout the presentation. Each garment, while showcasing Dalton's signature craftsmanship had a lived in quality. A life on the road doesn't allow for much other than essentials. However, the make do amend attitude of their threadbare clothes does not detract from the eccentricity of an aesthetic which is full of passion and pride for their cultural identity. The traveling life forgoes luxury, yet the utilitarian functionality of their garments embrace the breadth of cultural diversity encountered along the road. With a magpie's eye for detail, simple wears have life breathed in to them as Dalton draws on influences from their wide travels, from India through to North America and onwards through Europe. Throughout the collection there is the sense of a traveller, picking up and adapting things to suit his lifestyle along the way. As the grey damp skies loom over the city this collection and the lifestyle is celebrates are pretty inviting. Once again, Lauren Macaulay's illustrations help bring the collection to life...




Illustrations by Lauren Macaulay.

Illustrating Menswear Day SS11: JW Anderson


Each season Menswear Day gets stronger and stronger. For SS11 it was particularly exciting to see stalwarts of Savile Row sit comfortably alongside high street regulars and established designers and exciting new talent alike to help cause a sartorial stir or two while collectively flying the flag of menswear. Presentations, catwalk shows and film screenings all celebrated the exciting diversity of menswear design talent which uniquely exists in this capital of ours. Now that the dust begins to settle on the day itself and I've suitably recovered from fashion flu I want to dissect the day. the Going to the shows is a wonderful experience, but looking over catwalk photos afterwards can be a bit mind numbing. So, to help bring the day to life we decided to cover the shows a little differently and enlisted the help of Lauren Macaulay. I first met this talented illustrator wildly sketching on the front row Graduate Fashion Week. As I awkwardly scribbled the odd note or two, Macaulay had managed to pick out each collections key parts on the pages of her sketchbook. Thankfully she agreed to loan her talents and sketchbook to us for Menswear Day.

One of the real standout collections of an eclectic Menswear day was undoubtedly JW Anderson’s SS11 show, which for the first time showed both his menswear and equally desirable womenswear together. The Devoured and I, SS11 collection takes inspiration from three photographers and their view on subcultures in the 1950s through to the 1970s: Danny Lyon, William Gedney and Karl Heinz Weinberger. The driving focul point is youth and a sense of adventure exploring an unknown land. In recent seasons JW Anderson's designs have explored the beautiful transience of youth but none more effectively than here. There is a sense of fragility and wonder throughout the collection and this is best seen in the multi-layering of broken down elements. The combination of these elements is what truly left me excited. I often complain that Spring/Summer collections are overly simple, stripped from the element of dress that interests me most, layering. There were no complaints during this show. Trousers are patch worked and faded, lace doilies adorn t shirts, Liberty prints are bleached out and tulle and florals are borrowed from the girls. As I sat in my seat I marveled at the heady cocktail of prints and textures on display. Thankfully these caught Macaulay's eye as well and her illustrations highlight them far better than my words could describe. We hope you enjoy them...

Illustrations by Lauren Macaulay.

Braille SS11

Following the success of Braille’s A/W10 debut collection, A Gentle Wake, founders Benjamin Vorono and Samuel Kientsch return with zeal for SS11. The labels sophomore collection is a celebration of freedom, speed and optimism. Inspired by the modernist design of Palm Springs juxtaposed with the natural landscape of Agua Caliente Canyon. 

Entitled Colt, it reflects the mountainous, desert landscape of the region as pleated blazers, jackets and rain coats incorporate the contours of the pleated Blazers, Jackets and Rain Coat. Shirts in sheer cotton in sun-faded shades of husk, loosely reference the palm tree oasis. Luminescent tweeds give visibility to the night explorer, whilst maintaining elegance and subtlety. Waxed cotton outerwear is used to protect from heavy rain and extended sleeve plackets to ease motion for the adventurous and active gentlemen...





To celebrate the launch of their new online store, Braille screened a film of the collection throughout LFW on a mobile cinema. You may have seen driving from show to show, and party to party but if not, don't worry (I missed the mobile showings too), we can share it with you. The film showcases the collection’s modernist lines, clean cuts and natural desert hues while helping to celebrate the launch of the brands online store on 1st October.


For the film, Sam and Ben created four additional showpieces made from the scraps of the collection. This included the creation of a silk/hemp fabric which was manipulated to reflect a texture of raindrops which was then hand dyed and waxed to form a tiered raincoat. The design duo also created an offset checkered board blazer assembled with rectangles of Wolf Fish leather and Luminescent tweed. 


Showroom Next Door SS11: Final Few


Over the last ten days I have been reminded why menswear design is so exciting here in the capital. My London Fashion Week began with a three hour exploration of the Showroom Next Door. The Showroom has managed to improve on the success of its debut season and for SS11 the larger showroom space welcomed Hannah Martin, Armando Cabral, Cherry Brown, BUNNEY and Tigersushi Furs alongside a few old favourites. The expanded Showroom Next Door was an interesting and vibrant place where fashion, art and craftsmanship can be appreciated side by side. These are exciting times for menswear and I'm so pleased that there are platforms like the Showroom Next Door that help to showcase the obvious and abundant talent that calls the capital its home. After a trio of single brand focused posts and the need to begin reviewing Menswear Day in more detail, I thought it best to summarise the remaining brands. 


One of the first things that caught my eye was Cherry Brown. The designer, Keiko Ishikawa previously worked as a flower and interior designer and is now a self-taught jewellery designer. In 2006 she launched Cherry Brown. The range builds an original cocktail of jewelery and corsage as it focuses on the theme "creation with joy". The collection showcases hand craftsmanship throughout and the delicate paper flower pins (pictured above) would brighten up any lapel.


The H by H by Harris label heralds the new school in desirable contemporary accessories. Launched in AW09 to great success, designed and manufactured in the UK, the brainchild of stylist Harris Elliott.  Regular readers will recall that the debut H by Harris collection comprised itself of two lines, the Q hand quilted nappa leather and the SH wax hide leather collection. Both left me wanting to sell an organ or turn to a life of crime just to have one hanging off his arm.


Harris' personal need to find a stylish yet practical laptop case has continued to evolve into a thoroughly modern, yet understated luxury luggage brand which is designed and manufactured in the UK. Appealing to men and women the style savvy and classic consumer alike, meeting practical and aesthetic desires. Harris designs using the term 'luxury fatigues' to define his unique style. 


Known as a knitwear brand The Inoue Brothers have been searching to further their endeavors in creating relations in communities where craftsmanship and cultural heritages are rich. The communities found for their projects are purposely chosen for their less enriched history of financial stability and opportunity. Progressing from their collaboration with the indigenous Andean knitters of Bolivia, the brothers have ventured to the continent of the century - Africa, their starting point being the township of Khayelitsha, South Africa.


In Khayelitsha, the Brothers have formed a relationship with a community and a co-operative of beading ladies who use their unique skills to create beautiful beaded pieces original to South Africa. Using eco friendly organic hemp material as canvases for these beading pieces, the final garments are produced through an uncompromising process commissioning local artisans and seamstresses around Capetown. The spirit of “Ubuntu” is the message.


For the Ubuntu Project, the Inoue Brothers changed their focus to hemp fabric. Hemp fabric is not only more durable while offering the same qualities as cotton – it is also close to 100% naturally grown. With hemp they found a fabric that could progress and expand their product line and at the same time act in accordance with their core values and beliefs.

The beading used so well throughout the the collection has great profound heritage with colour combinations, patterns and shapes. This heritage is much greater than our comprehension, however, the Inoue Brothers are determined to learn more about the culture of this magnificent continent and share it to their best capabilities. In an earlier interview with us, the brothers conceded that they have only just scratched the surface of what crafts and skills lie beneath. They will continue to work hard to ensure the dignity and empowerment of all people that sincerely need it. And as such plan to continue to work with this community and at the same time keep expanding our reach as far as they can – all in the true spirit of Ubuntu.


Subtlety, elegance, and innovation are the three defining features of Bruno Chaussignand Lunettes. His collection was born from the fusion of style and comfort. Each spectacle is hand made in France and is polished for three days to provide the finest quality finish. It is instantly apparent that Bruno Chaussignand takes great pride in the exceptionally high quality of materials and workmanship that goes into producing each individual frame. The moment I first put them on back in August last year I fell head over heels and invested in a pair. Now that I've seen a few additions to the offering, I might just add to my collection.


The Showroom Next Door embodies everything that I find exciting about menswear design in London; namely it's diversity and constant sense of sartorial evolution and revolution. As one season closes, I look forward to seeing what the Showroom will reveal in the next. If it grows much larger I'll easily spend the whole day there...if only I could move in.