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Showing posts with label Craft. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Craft. Show all posts

Inspired... Erïk Bjerkesjö AW13

Back in January my imagination was ignited by the discovery of Erïk Bjerkesjö. It was impossible not to fall for the charms of his debut, an assortment of exquisite handmade treasures, quintessentially beautiful with an added dash of unmistakable traditional mastery. Showcased as part of the inaugural Polimoda Future Lab at Pitti Uomo 81, the design talent sparkled in the splendour of Villa Favard. Considered yet exciting, classic yet modern, the remarkably accomplished collection told the personal and professional story that began in Sweden and grew up amidst the great craft traditions of Italy and Tuscany. Next month, having been awarded Who is On Next? Pitti Uomo, the designer returns to Florence as the New Performer to tell the next chapter in his blossoming tale.

"The starting point for me is always the search for fabric and materials," explains Bjerkesjö as he travels across a snow covered Swedish country side by train. "I always feel inspired when I visit the shoemakers in Tuscany. From the leather that they use and the materials they have lying around, the machines to the way they dress." His enthusiasm is infectious. As the snow continued to fall outside, the designer daydreamed about his inspiration and offered a teasing narration of what to expect in a few weeks time...

When I grew up in Sweden I always looked for real and authentic things, from music scenes to art and architecture to food. I get the same feeling living and working in Tuscany, the attitude towards making something real, based on tradition. This season I wanted to create something that is really close to my heart. It is a warm collection that takes clear inspiration from Gotland, the island that I grew up in outside Stockholm. It is also the same island Ingmar Bergman lived on. I opted to name the collection 'L'île' which means the island. 

"This season the garments are made to complete the hand made shoes. Starting from this season I have been working with tailors that also work with Ann Demeulemeester and Valentino, which is just the perfect combination because my aesthetics are far from both but they understand both sides, for me, that is going in another direction. It is basically the same thing with my shoemakers, they are making more classic men's shoes, and I am working with them, putting my own aesthetics in to the construction. But most important, they know about quality and structure, which for me is what I always want to work with. But also, I am making all knitwear and some leather and stone parts made in Gotland, because that island as Tuscany has it's own tradition and special materials they are experts in and craftsmanship and way of work that they are unique within.

The collection is what I picture Marcel Duchamp would have worn if he were alive today. Something with both structure and warmth. Last season (AW12) was my first real collection and I made it over two years whilst I launched my footwear, and it was inspired by the shoemakers, what they wear and how they look. It was washed with shoe-polish, ink and waxed, and the collection can be worn when you are making shoes. This collection is more about the craftsmen of the Island. It's not just rooted in the shoemakers but looks to writers and painters, and explores how Ingmar Bergman lived and look on the island. It is kind of what I have been wanting to present for years. To be the New Performer at Pitti Immagine Uomo 83 is a great honour and to present the collection at Villa Favard just makes perfect sense...

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Snapshots of Erïk Bjerkesjö's inspirations, evolution from last season and a peek at AW13 taking shape.

Every time that I've spoken to Erïk Bjerkesjö, his enthusiasm, interest and love for the individuals that combine to realise his handmade shoes and their complimentary wardrobe, is contagious and his longing to learn, develop and evolve in inspiring. Ever keen to develop these relationships, I end our conversation by asking how has they've developed since we last spoke.

"A great deal. I have made my things by myself, by hand, together with them and they have also made different parts that I was not allowed to work with. Today I have taken a step closer with them, and I am working more naturally and I feel more secure with the whole process. But they still keep me inspired, their way of life and knowledge, the way they dress while working and the attitude toward fashion today and yesterday, it's healthy for me. It sometimes feels like you're at your grandparents home and they are recommending me reading a special book, and when I do it, I feel my knowledge grow and I find a new direction." 

Bjerkesjö's hunger to develop, hone and further traditions appears insatiable. I cannot wait to watch as this hungry talent continues to craft his modern classics.

Introducing (ki:ts)


At this time of year it is difficult to resist the temptation to take a step back and assess the moments that have materialised over the last twelve months. With this in mind, a year in menswear summary will certainly be posted before we wave goodbye to 2010 but there are still a few moments to experience, labels to discover and collections to covet before. However, I can hint that our review will include my thoughts on a revived retail scene in London and indeed beyond. I have visited a myriad of newly opened stores in recent months and my faith in the future of menswear retail has been restored. During two of these visits a certain accessories brand has caught my eye. Up till now I have merely hinted at my admiration for (ki:ts). No longer. Trunk Clothiers first brought the label to my attention and and then 3939 duly reminded me of the fine leather accessory range. This weekend I met up with the man behind the label, Takaharu Osako to be talked through the current offering.

A look inside Trunk...
Woven belt by Ki:ts, boots by Common Projects, bag by BAG'n'NOUN and scarves by Drakes.

After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2003, Osako learnt his trade at Alexander McQueen before taking a design position at Jas MB. Last year, driven my his passion for handmade craft, he set up his own clothing and accessories brand. Taking its name from the dictionary pronunciation of the great English Romantic poet John Keats and Osako's desire to kit out the modern gentleman, (ki:ts) was formed. The label is an all too tempting cocktail of old, authentic elements mixed with modern technology and the pursuits of modern life. The accessory range takes its inspiration from the materials and craft which help create each accessory. These beautiful leather accessories are hand finished one-by-one in order not to ruin the natural feeling of the leather. Each season Osako makes up to one hundred and fifty belts and bracelets. The variety of fine Italian leathers are teamed up with sundries and buckles inspired from British horse riding and falconry detailing...

The Ki:ts range in 3939

Retrowood buckle bracelet.

Double Small Buckle Leather belt.

A close up of beautiful leather.

Black leather belt.

Surprisingly, the label is currently only Osako's fruitful hobby. He still works as an assistant designer at Jas MB by day and then dedicates his spare time to create each carefully crafted (ki:ts) product. The range itself, in addition to the stockists who buy in to the label slowly grows each season and this is how he wants it to remain. It was a pleasure to see his passion first hand, it was contagious and I could not walk away empty handed. During our discussion, the designer noticed that I was particularly taken by the retrowood versions. Up till then I had never seen such a leather in person. Amazingly, at the end of the range run through he gifted me with a bracelet version...

The wood effect bracelet in front of my Christmas tree.

Just look at the detailing...

I could not resist buying a belt for myself and opted for the stunning double buckle belt. I can't remember seeing anything quite like this before and I certainly do not own anything similar so it is a welcome addition to my accessory options.

The double buckle belt.

A closer look at the double buckle.

Osaka sources vintage fixtures for many of his belts.


I find it nigh on impossible to resist the charms of a label such as (ki:ts) and why should I? Takaharu Osako dedicates his evenings and free time to create each accessory by hand. Each accessory is carefully cut, shaped and polished and driven by his passion for fine leather craftsmanship. I'm looking forward to watching this label continue to slowly and organically grow over the coming seasons and beyond.

Fox and Flyte

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An assortment of goodies from Fox and Flyte.

Trawling through markets and auctions for that perfect something can be a lot of fun but it can also be a nightmare of pain and wasted hours. During this time of widespread festive fuelled consumer abandon in particular, the thought of physical shopping is not that enticing. Thankfully, the recent unveiling of Fox and Flyte, a new online purveyor of well chosen vintage collections, can help you unearth a hidden gem of an item from the comfort of your home.

Fox and Flyte began as an idea between three close friends with a shared aesthetic, a passion for beautifully made things and a longing for grandeur. Duncan Campbell, Haeni Kim and Luke Edward Hall do the hunting and the user gets the handpicked and lovingly restored treasure. The trio combine their vast knowledge in the careful selection of the finest, most charming objects they can find. Abiding by William Morris' belief that having beautiful things in your home can improve the quality of your life, and the love and skill put in by the maker can reside in the object, and contribute to the life of the person who ended up with i, the friends certainly have a respect for craftsmanship and stewardship. From butter knives to taxidermy to Church's loafers, the site is a wonderfully curation of surprises but however different the items first appear they are linked through their shared quality, craftsmanship, value and an enticing beauty that forces you to click. Shortly after the store opened, we caught up with the trio behind it to talk shop, antiques and collaboration...

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SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams, and the driving catalyst behind Fox and Flyte?
Fox and Flyte: The three of us have been friends for a long time and it was our dream to work together on a project one day. It was really about spending time together at the beginning and creating something. We spent a lot of time going to markets and auctions before we started Fox and Flyte and have always had an interest in beautifully made things and interiors so right from the outset that was a driving force.

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Of course when it comes to antiques, you can spend your whole life devoted to the study of one small area or period, so we were never claiming to be experts but we felt that antiques are generally perceived to be stuffy and expensive and thus inaccessible to many, which doesn’t have to be the case at all. It was very important to us that the Fox and Flyte website not only presented these beautiful objects in a user-friendly fashion but also made them available and attractive to a new audience. The internet is such a great medium for it because it opens this world up to everyone. The potential outreach is limitless but in our experience, we found lots of great antiques dealers but not many great antique websites so that's what got us thinking. Lastly, we started Fox and Flyte with very little budget, no investors and no premises to open a shop, so a website that was clear and easy to use felt like a good idea.

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It was much more about an aesthetic we love, combined with a way of working that tries to be a tiny bit altruistic. We live in an era of outsourced production, landfills and everything made of plastic. While it would be naïve to think that we could change this on our own, it didn’t feel like we wanted to contribute further to this situation. One of the most amazing things about antiques is that they are already here! It is very exciting for us to think about a time when things were made with care, skill, and even love. William Morris believed that having beautiful things in your home could actually improve the quality of your life, and the love and skill put in by the maker would actually reside in the object, and contribute to the life of the person who ended up with it. This might be a bit over the top if you’re talking about a teapot or a butter knife as opposed to a tapestry or a sculpture, but it’s really about a respect for craftsmanship and trying not to fill the world with more rubbish unnecessarily. I think we wanted to see whether we could introduce a new audience to this way of thinking, who perhaps may have never known it existed before, or felt they couldn’t be a part of it, as well as to appeal to those who are already interested.

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SS: What does Fox and Flyte mean to you?
Fox and Flyte: It’s about bringing beautiful things to a new audience, showing young people that these things don’t have to be stuffy or prohibitively expensive, and hopefully, as time progresses, the opportunity to work with and support smaller producers and artisans working in traditional ways and keeping their expertise alive.

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SS: You seek out objects with a story that have been made with passion and in many cases lovingly restored? Could you talk us through your sourcing methods?
Fox and Flyte: As we found out very early, dealers will never reveal their sources! Every time we bought something for the site, we would innocently ask the dealer where they found their stock, only to be met with a disdainful look. As we fit our work on the website around our other jobs, much of the sourcing takes place at the weekends, in the evenings, or sometimes very early mornings. There are a few auctions we have got to know quite well, as well as markets and fairs but it very much depends on what you find on the day. An auction that had great stock one week could have nothing the next week but that’s the nature of the business and part of the fun! Now that people know we’re doing this, we’ve also started to receive offers both from friends and strangers if they have something curious they think we might be interested in.

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SS: From butter knives to taxidermy to Church's loafers, the site is wonderfully curated. I appreciate that this might be difficult to answer but which are the items that you are most excited and/or proud to have on site?
Fox and Flyte: The taxidermy peacock naturally wins the first prize. He really is a beautiful specimen and we went on quite an adventure to get him. We had been looking for years to find one and when he came into our lives it felt like it was meant to be. When looking for items to stock on the website, we try to hunt out the most curious of objects, and strike a balance between things that are beautiful and purely decorative (and sometimes ridiculous) and pieces that are more useful. We also love the mother of pearl plates we had recently and anything made of interesting materials like shagreen. When we designed the site, we added an archive section so that people could see what we had sold and the kind of things we’re likely to have again.

We love the idea of stewardship, which is particularly relevant to older things, with the idea that they were here before us and will be here when we’re gone, so the time you spend with an item, you’re really only looking after it. Because we don’t have a warehouse space, everything sold on the site lives at home with us before it’s sold. People sometimes ask if we’re sad to see things go, but if we’ve had an adventure finding something, fun photographing, cleaning and restoring it, and then the pleasure of living with it for a few days or weeks, there is almost a feeling of pride when someone buys it because it is moving to a new home and onto the next stage of its life.

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SS: The site is launched with antique pieces, but you have started to collaborate with small producers on special one-off projects. What can you tell us about these?
Fox and Flyte: As we mentioned above, when we started the site, we really wanted to let it take its natural course and just wait to see what happened. The response was better than we could have hoped, but for us it’s very important to continue to develop, to innovate and of course, grow. We love the idea of working with small producers, initially in the UK, and finding people who we could work with to create small runs of products especially for Fox and Flyte, In our minds, the best collaborations are when both parties come away happy, and you create something better than either one of you could have produced alone. So it’s not about putting a Fox and Flyte label on someone else’s product but sharing our expertise and ideas to create something new. We have a few of these projects in the works but nothing is signed yet, so we won’t say too much, but for us it was really about thinking what would we want to see that we can’t find. If we’re looking for the perfect martini glass, or the most charming pocket square and we couldn’t see it anywhere, then why not make one ourselves? It goes back to our thinking at the very beginning when we sat down and thought to ourselves that we can’t be the only people in the universe who like this stuff!

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We’d love to collaborate with skilled craftspeople who work in a variety of different fields. We’re thinking about curious objects for the home and person, so eventually we’d like to begin stocking and creating accessories and clothing. One third of Fox and Flyte, Luke Edward Hall, is currently in his final year studying Menswear Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins. He has been producing a small number of shirts and ties in Liberty print fabrics for the website, and we hope to incorporate more of his work into Fox and Flyte when he produces his final collection next year. We have also created a limited run of screen-printed posters with our friend Nicole Thompson, who is an excellent designer and prints all of her work completely by hand. As well as this, we’ve been working quite closely with the architectural designer Ben Pentreath, who has a shop in Bloomsbury, which has been a brilliant experience. We had a pop-up shop there for a few weeks in the autumn, and we plan to work with him again next year. He’s been an excellent mentor for us so far.

For future collaborations it’s important for us to find the right people to work with because it’s about sharing ideas. We can offer a platform to sell, as well as a new audience, and the collaborator can offer a wealth of expertise.

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SS: What can we expect from Fox and Flyte in 2012 and beyond?
Fox and Flyte: I think as we learn more about this business, hopefully the website will get better and better. One of the comments we get most often is great website, wish there was more stock! Because we fit it into our working lives, and the way we source, clean, style, photograph and describe everything ourselves, this process takes a little bit of time but going into 2012 we are looking at ways to streamline this a bit and to become more efficient. We are also going to start working on more coherent collections of products to launch together, so it could be picnic, or brunch, or the Fox at sea, but it will be twenty or so products all relevant to the theme, all uploaded together. Finally, we are very excited to be getting underway with a few of our first Fox and Flyte product collaborations, which we think people will love. Details to be announced early in the New Year so watch this space!

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All imagery supplied by Fox and Flyte

Inspired... William Richard Green AW13

As one of the designers headlining a new era in British menswear, William Richard Green continues to fuse his British influences with a willingness to celebrate the diversity amongst the well sourced manufacturers and suppliers of these rich isles. Over the last few seasons, each collection has showcased the craftsmanship of home grown British manufacturing whilst feeling anything but heritage. As so many have talked up the 'British-ness' of their products, Green has quietly and assuredly gone about his business of building relations with suppliers and crafting pieces that are decidedly British, both inside and out. "One of my points is that the collections are British made and predominantly use British fabric. Over the life of the label, I've amassed an extended family with the guys in Nottingham and beyond but working to the deadlines of the fashion calendar can be testing. They're all characters. I love spending time with them. I'd much rather visit them than go to your typical fashion party," confirms the designer before taking a sip of his early morning coffee.

For Spring/Summer 2013, the design talent celebrated 'Home' and explored the concept of Britishness, for Autumn/Winter 13 Green sartorially examines family. From dysfunctional households to his relationship with his suppliers to the points gangs, Green pores over and plays with ideas and dynamics of family. Before leaving his Old Street base for a day at the studio, the designer talks us through his collection of research images...

"I began thinking about odd family dynamics. My parents are in the process of deciding whether or not they want to sell the family home and move to Cornwall and there's a strange mood that's developed. My family are so close and it's full of real characters. I started by looking at Moonrise Kingdom. I don't tend to look at such obvious references but I just love how Wes Anderson's always creates these intriguing family set ups. His parents divorced at eight and I think that's one of the reason why, in every one of his films from The Royal Tenenbaums to the Life Aquatic, there's this idea of separation and dysfunctional love. I became obsessed at looking at family portraits, especially the awkward ones. I was looking at how people identify themselves through repetition and then searching for the odd bit of individuality and point of difference. 

In the end, I've accumulated a vast number of images that all have an association with each other through pattern and clothing. From the uniforms of gangs to football kits that were ridiculed by friends to Lucky Luke. I've always loved Lucky Luke. Whilst I was at Central Saint Martins, I did a big project around it. I just love how clumsy the lines are and how graphic it is.

I'm really looking forward to showing this season. I'm in the process of working on a film with Morgan O'Donovan that will help tell the story of the different characters in the collection. As long as the garments come back from the factories in time, we'll be shooting between Christmas and New Year in the countryside. Despite the early start for this season I'm prepared and just waiting on production."

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A snapshot of William Richard Green's visual research for AW13.
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Sunspel blows out one hundred and fifty candles


Sunspel have spent the last one hundred and fifty years perfecting the art of timeless clothing. This national institution has been making the finest English underwear and t-shirts since 1860. All of Sunspel's clothes are handmade resulting in wardrobe staples that feel deeply luxurious yet have an understated elegance and sophistication. Throughout their history they have experimented with new styles, fabric structures, knitting techniques and have collaborated with the likes of Paul Smith, Margaret Howell, Thom Browne and Kris Van Assche to name but a few. With the appointment of JW Anderson at the creative helm and the opening of their first stand alone store on Redchurch Street, 2010 has undoubtedly been a great year.  

To help them blow out one hundred and fifty candles, they have invited several leading lights from the world of design to dig deep into their archives and offer a fresh interpretation of a few of their much loved staples. Jean Touitou, the creative brains behind A.P.C has designed a classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 while the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.  Much loved Aussie skincare brand Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas. Local esteemed tailor Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polos that Sean Connery wore in the sixties whilst playing 007. Derek Harris, of Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee, designed to be worn under, you guessed it, motorcycle leathers...

A.P.C  designed classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 whilst the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.


Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polo.

Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas.

Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee.

All in all this is celebratory capsule collection that I'll happily raise my glass to for now and hopefully get my hands on at the end of the year. Here's to Sunspel.