Exclusive: Casely-Hayford SS10 Look Book and Interview

The Casely-Hayford duo applying the finishing touches to their wonderful offering at Menswear Day.

Before the festive break we mentioned that we would have an exclusive gift for you on the 29th and right on time, we can now deliver our late Christmas present to you....the first look at Casely-Hayford's SS10 look book along with an interview with our favourite design duo. One of the real highlights of the extended Menswear Day back in September was Casely-Hayford's collection entitled Kings of the Kings Land. Inspired by the raw energy of Kingsland Road (where their studio is based) they unveiled a new style tribe, the 'Afropunk.' For the benefit of those who live outside of London, this seemingly unique and unconventional corner of the city is where original EastEnders co-exist with the more recently landed public school boys. This incongruous social mix conjures up a rich sartorial vocabulary which the Casely-Hayford's have used to create a new English style.

The first look at Casely-Hayford's SS10 look book.

Steve left the Fashion East Menswear Installations inspired by what he had seen but was impatient to learn more about this collection in particular. With this in mind, we caught up with Charlie and Joe to talk about the collection in more detail and to find out about their exciting plans for the year ahead whilst revealing their SS10 look book for the very first time...

A new form of sartorial mix. English Wedgewood style fused with Turkish Ottoman prints.

SS: The collection was inspired by the sights and sounds of Dalston's infamous road, Kingsland Road. What is it about this part of East London which makes it so special and so inspiring?
Casely-Hayford: We've always been interested in the idea of 'the trans-cultural' - an enriched summation of many cultures to create a unified whole, forming a sartorial mix which is unique to the UK and possibly at it's most direct in London. For us, this area of London perfectly captures the spirit simply by walking from one end of the Kingsland Road to the other. It is possible to experience some of the worlds most prominent cultures, and we wanted to echo this mood in our collection. We are excited by the way that new conclusions are drawn from this cultural fusion.

The English DNA of the brand is fused with the colour and ornamentation of beautiful prints and hard-egded far-eastern embellishments.

SS: Your first two collections have seen you fuse elements of traditional English tailoring with facets of sportswear and this one sees you continue this sartorial cocktail with the unexpected addition of African elements to the mix. Do these combinations reflect the two of you in anyway, or perhaps the interchange and evolution of your own aesthetics?
Casely-Hayford: It wasn't so much the African element that initially enticed us - it was the similarities between the powerful youth culture of London Punks and the age-old aesthetics of traditional tribal wear. The synergy between the two seemed interesting and relevant to an emerging subculture that was as of yet undefined. We were able to retain the English DNA of the brand whilst fusing it with the colour and ornamentation of these beautiful prints and hard-egded far-eastern embellishments.

A unique combination of the delicacy of the Casely-Hayford aesthetic mixed with the raw energy of the anarchic youth created a trans cultural sartorial punk that we came to define as the 'Afropunk'. All the essential Casely-Hayford elements are still central to our statement, we are simply introducing another facet.

We have spent a lot of time discussing how we define culture and both agree that it is something which is not static. For each generation there is a defining point. We felt that with this collection we could begin to touch on an aesthetic shift from one decade to the next.

Introducing the Afropunks

SS: You unveiled the 'Afropunk', as part of the extended Menswear Day at LFW, how has the reaction been to your new style tribe? And did you have a chance to enjoy the day at all?
Casely-Hayford: The reaction has been overwhelming! We didn't really expect it. It's funny that through making a stronger visual statement we seem to have connected with a wider audience. People have been keen to embrace our vision. The Casely-Hayford sartorial mood prevails but through countering cliched notions of luxury we have been able to celebrate fine craftsmanship in a modern context.

It is always difficult presenting a personal statement to the public where the designer's intention transcends the power of the viewer's interpretation, but throughout the day we were pretty surprised by the positive reaction we received from a wide and diverse range of individuals.

Rather than doing a runway show, from the very beginning we made a decision that our seasonal statement would be in the form of a selection of images that reflected the brand identity. We are interested in creating something for the few, rather than reaching out to every man. Last LFW was an exception that appealed to us because it was the 25th anniversary. The Menswear Day was significant in finally creating something credible for buyers and press in London that wasn't dominated by womenswear.

Relaxed, luxurious tailoring... English Wedgewood style.

SS: The moment Steve walked in to your space inside Somerset House's East Wing, he was struck by how meticulously styled and cast the collection was and this has been continued through to the look book. Do you enjoy the styling aspect? What was the inspiration for the ornate embellishment of Turkish prints?
Casely-Hayford: I think there are very few designers that style their own collections. But it is a major part of the process for us. There's such a strong narrative behind each garment, the story would be incomplete if the stylistic vision was not carried through with exacting measure. We felt that the ornate patterns formed the perfect cross over point between English Wedgewood style and Turkish Ottoman prints.


The "hankersleeves" featured in the look book and presentation seem to have caught a lot of people's attention. We were looking at tribal notions of beauty and wanted to utilise the metal hoops that various African tribes use to elongate areas of their body such as the neck and arms. We used colourful hand rolled silk handkerchiefs from Suffolk to anglicise the look and make it our own.

A closer look at the much talked about 'hankersleeves'.

SS: 2009 has been a huge year for Casely-Hayford, what have been the highlights for you both?
Casely-Hayford: It's been an amazing year. Being approached by several top international retailers was a major endorsement of what we are doing. Collaborating with Swaroskvi on their first ever menswear project along with Lanvin and Phillip Lim has been really exciting... and working on this new project with John Lewis has been so fulfilling. I don't think there's been anything like it before - it's essentially a celebration of 'the Best of British' under one umbrella. Each season my father will be designing a complete wardrobe and collaborating with some of the most highly respected British heritage brands for John Lewis to create new unique garments. We received some of the samples just before Christmas and they look really strong. The first items should be in store from the end of February. Lulu inviting us to take part in London Fashion Week as part of Fashion East was obviously also another highlight of the year.

We are sure to replicate Casely-Hayford'd styling when the warm sunshine returns next year.

SS: What are you looking forward to in 2010? And...can you share any hints as to what you'll be showing in February 2010 and beyond?
Casely-Hayford: 2010 will hopefully be a year of greater international expansion for the brand. We've been approached by some interesting stores over the last few months who we hope to work with in the near future.

Autumn is a little darker and harder than previous collections, Focusing more on craftsmanship and quality... but once again pushing the boundaries of English sartorialism and British anarchy.

Two final looks at SS10 before we begin looking forward to the year ahead.

Sunspel blows out one hundred and fifty candles

Sunspel have spent the last one hundred and fifty years perfecting the art of timeless clothing. This national institution has been making the finest English underwear and t-shirts since 1860. All of Sunspel's clothes are handmade resulting in wardrobe staples that feel deeply luxurious yet have an understated elegance and sophistication. Throughout their history they have experimented with new styles, fabric structures, knitting techniques and have collaborated with the likes of Paul Smith, Margaret Howell, Thom Browne and Kris Van Assche to name but a few. With the appointment of JW Anderson at the creative helm and the opening of their first stand alone store on Redchurch Street, 2010 has undoubtedly been a great year.  

To help them blow out one hundred and fifty candles, they have invited several leading lights from the world of design to dig deep into their archives and offer a fresh interpretation of a few of their much loved staples. Jean Touitou, the creative brains behind A.P.C has designed a classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 while the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.  Much loved Aussie skincare brand Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas. Local esteemed tailor Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polos that Sean Connery wore in the sixties whilst playing 007. Derek Harris, of Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee, designed to be worn under, you guessed it, motorcycle leathers...

A.P.C  designed classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 whilst the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.

Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polo.

Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas.

Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee.

All in all this is celebratory capsule collection that I'll happily raise my glass to for now and hopefully get my hands on at the end of the year. Here's to Sunspel.

Gareth Pugh To Showcase Menswear in Paris

This afternoon Vogue.co.uk (closely followed by Brandish) posted some news that made me choke on the leftover garlic naan bread I was nibbling on for my lunch (which was probably a good thing because stale naan is never good!). Known for his imaginatively dramatic designs, Gareth Pugh's first menswear collection will be showcased as part of the upcoming Paris menswear shows in January and is scheduled to take place on Sunday 25 at the Palais de Tokyo (which is one of my favourite places in Paris and where the designer presented his Parisian debut collection back in September and can be seen here). On the release of the news Gareth remarked..."It just feels like an organic progression and yes, I am going to be very busy working over Christmas!"

His solid, architectural aesthetic melds progressively with the Gothic, the futuristic, the treacherous, and the peculiar, all of which are things men's fashion has been crying out for! Whatever you think about his designs (I for one dream of wearing the Elizabethan Stormtrooper look he presented in Paris last time round and I was a little surprised to read that Marilyn Manson is also a fan), Pugh never fails to put on a great show whilst creating much discussion and this is just what menswear needs right now because it has to be said that not many menswear designers have managed to charter new territory in recent presentations...in fact I can only think of Thom Browne as the only menswear designer who brings a little theatre to the runway. Following two seasons of mediocre fashion weeks with little to talk about it is about time something came along and mixed things up a little bit. As Gareth Pugh has a busy Christmas (as I will no doubt put on a few pounds eating an excessive amount of roast potatoes...I guess you could call that busy) I just can't wait for Fashion Week...which is something I didn't think that I would type given the yawn inducing previous two seasons.

I will certainly return to this piece of news in a future post but I just have to digest the information and that naan bread a little more, plus I wanted to spread the news. What do you make of the news that the Dark Prince is venturing into menswear?

Advent - Day Thirteen

'ello Guvnor! Today is Dick Van Dyke day. Today is also the day when Style Salvage's partners share a birthday with this loveable but ultimately terrible cockney...Happy Birthday to Rob, Susie and Dick, we love you all!

Here is the man of the moment (back in 1965) on the cover of Showtime after they made him their man of the month following his awesome leading man performance in Mary Poppins.

You beat me to it! Very happy birthday wishes to one and all... and also to Steve Buscemi and Malta. What an auspicious day!

Catering for the Modern Gentry

What started out as started as a conversation between Patrick Grant and Hannah Martin about bringing together different facets of handmade British gentleman’s kit has resulted in a fabulous pop up store. Whilst waving the flag for Great British luxury, jewellery designer Hannah Martin, ready to wear tailor E. Tautz and shoe maker Lodger have come together for a one-off collaboration called The Modern Gentry. The idea is to gather, exclusively under one roof, three brands which encapsulate the true definition of luxury. The result is my idea of retail heaven. This pop up store offers a Christmas shopping experience far removed from the manic scenes on nearby Oxford Street.

Inside the Modern Gentry Lodger shoes sit under E. Tautz tailoring with Hannah Martin's jewellery complimented by a beautiful light sculpture courtesy of Yorgo Lykouria.

The London based trio have set up camp at the Alma Showroom (just a cufflink's throw away from Savile Row) for talks and appointments until the 5th December. Representatives from each brand will be on hand to explain the detailed processes involved in creating each of these unique products. Under the cloak of Dazed Digital I caught up with Hannah Martin, Patrick Grant of E. Tautz and Lodger's very own Nathan Brown to find out more about the project. The Modern Gentry explores the definition of the modern luxury and I asked each of them what British Luxury meant to them. For Patrick, luxury is about 'scarcity... the things that many men want but very few can have." For Nathan Brown it means "beautiful design, thoughtful craftsmanship, impeccable service." Similarly for Hannah Martin it is "about integrity, timelessness and craftsmanship." The interesting thing here is that in all of the responses not one of these ideas touch on the concept of 'modern' because the values of true luxury are timeless. It should be about creating something that will last, both in terms of quality and style. When we discussed the perceived decline of luxury back in March it was clear that many luxury brands had lost sight of these virtues. It should provide pieces which can be handed down to the next generation. We are surrounded by fast fashion and impossibly cheap products. For these three brands, British luxury is the antithesis of this. In short, the Modern Gentry is a wonderful one-off project borne from a shared commitment to the creation of gentleman's requisites... I just wish that it was around for longer.

BoF and Nick Knight Livestream

Tomorrow is a day of talk.  As part of Liberty's shoe weekend, I am hosting the Q&A session with Mr Hare in the men’s shoe department between 5pm and 7pm (please do come down if you can and keep me company. Around the same time, inside London's Hospital Club, Imran Amed of The Business of Fashion will sit down for an in-depth interview with Nick Knight. This will be the third in their series of Fashion Pioneers speaking to a small, select live studio audience in London and livestreamed to thousands of people around the world. This groundbreaking series features innovators at the heart of the constantly evolving, ever fascinating and all consuming fashion industry and gives the audience a rare opportunity to understand fashion from a behind-the-scenes, professional point of view.

There are few individuals who have participated in fashion's digital revolution with the same passion and foresight as Nick Knight. With Amed's knowledgeable direction, Nick Knight will discuss the evolution of fashion image creation in the digital age and reflect on ten years of the groundbreaking website, SHOWstudio.com. Not only has Nick Knight created some of the most memorable fashion images of our time but his use of the internet has been truly groundbreaking. There is no doubt that Knight is a true fashion pioneer and I for one am keen to hear his thoughts on where he sees fashion communication moving forward now that we are well in to the digital revolution and to hear what he has learned from his experience with SHOWstudio.

We invite you all to tune in. And while you are watching, please send questions for Nick Knight to the @_BoF_ Twitter account using the hashtag #BoFLive

LCF and Diaghilev's Ballet Russes (Part Two)

To coincide with the major retrospective at the V&A and the centenary of the Ballets Russes, London College of Fashion and English National Ballet have spent the past year working together on a unique project which examines the Ballet Russes and the incredible legacy of artistic director Diaghilev on dance, art and, of course, fashion. To mark the culmination of this exciting collaboration we decided to talk to Rob Phillips, the Creative Director of the School of Fashion Design and Technology to learn more about the project. In the first part below we set the scene and learn how the project evolved over the course of the year. Here, we learn about the creative and design processes displayed by the students throughout the course of this very special project.

Tailored trousers and jersey drape T-shirt by Deema Abi-Chahine

SS: The project began in 2009 with LCF students having the chance to explore the Ballets Russes through English National Ballet’s performances, rehearsals, set design and importantly, giving students a unique insight into costume design for dance. I'm really intrigued to hear more about the creative processes that the students explored and demonstrated. Could you talk us through some of the processes displayed?

Rob Phillips: The project gave the students amazing opportunities to explore the rich heritage of English National Ballet. The students were given access to Marden in Kent where ENB have their storage facility of costumes and sets. It is a treasure trove of all the performances past and present that ENB have been involved with. We were lucky enough to be given a guided by Head of Costume Wizzy Shawyer. Marden is also where new costumes and sets are made so it really was an unique visit.

Students also visited the rehearsals at the ENB studios in London Kensington where they were preparing for the Ballet Russes season in June 2009 at Sadlers Wells. Some of the students that went along sketched and recorded what they saw.

Fleur Derbyshire-Fox Director of Learning at the ENB gave the students a lecture about the history of Ballet Russes and the ENB which helped the students start to put into context what they were seeing. It also provided them with inspiration for what the ENB was all about. During June 2009 students were able to see performances at Sadlers Wells – for some of them this was the first time they had seen a ballet performance and was a great inspiration for them. So the students really had many experiences to draw upon when they set out on their design process whether this was through drawing or watching and listening to what was around them.

Despite the fact that it was a very creative brief – it was important the outcome was relevant to fashion. One particular menswear student was very inspired by the set, colours and lights and how all of this goes in motion with the movement of the ballet dancers - so her garment was designed to have movement in it, rather than a garment that can be danced in – in fact although the garment looks as though there is movement in it is actually quite restrictive!

The whole process for students is to create and negotiate their own path to answer the brief. The process from there is all about the individual student and the world they create from their own view point. The brief is there to give structure but the outcome is like a jigsaw, it can be played with and essentially it is all about the autonomy of each student and how they decide to interpret the brief.

Ivy printed multi-layered Vest and trousers by Tomi (Wai Yee Ho)

SS: Ultimately, the project has brought together three cultural powerhouses with spectacular results. Looking back over the finished designs and the project as a whole, how proud are you that the students have managed to the incredible legacy of Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes and the significant impact the company continues to have, not only on dance but also on art, design and fashion? I know this must be difficult but do you have any particular highlights?

Rob Phillips: The highlight for me has been watching how each student has developed their ideas. Through this process the students come to realise, that through people such as Diaghilev, elements such as fashion, art, costume, theatre ballet and dance all intermingle – they all affect each other and lend themselves to each other.

This project has opened up the mindset of the students that fashion is not just about wearing clothes and that in the design process other factors come into play – they have seen that fashion designing can be more fulfilling by using different approaches. They have become enriched when given an opportunity which isn’t just about producing designs which are for the everyday – this project showed them about creating an impact and pushing the imagination to be inspired by other practices, such as Diaghilev was. It is great that the students will now take this experience and new ways of working into their final collections – so watch this space!

Appliqué Cotton Top and shorts by Tristan Lahoz

Full Credit list for the shoot is as follows: Creative Director - Rob Phillips. Photography - Sean Michael. Assisted by - James Finnigan. Hair & Make Up -Dora Veronica Simson & Marina Kerecsanyi using M.A.C. Models - Jay, Abella and Jodie all at Nevs. Location - English National Ballet - Marden.

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The finished designs will be displayed at the V&A for one night during the landmark exhibition ‘Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, 1909-1929’. The display is part of a special evening entitled Ballets Russes Design Perspectives – which takes place at the V&A at 8pm on Friday 19 November and is free (hurray!) to the public.

LCF and Diaghilev's Ballet Russes (Part One)

To coincide with the major retrospective at the V&A and the centenary of the Ballets Russes, London College of Fashion and English National Ballet have spent the past year working together on a unique project which examines the Ballet Russes and the incredible legacy of artistic director Diaghilev on dance, art and, of course, fashion. Diaghilev imaginatively combined dance, music and art to create 'total theatre'. A consummate collaborator himself, he worked with Stravinsky, Chanel, Picasso, Matisse and Nijinsky, there's no doubt that Diaghilev would have approved of this celebratory collaboration.

The students have been able to immerse themselves in the fantasy and couture world of Diaghilev and let their imaginations and creativity take over. To showcase the results of this hugely successful collaboration, twenty five students have been asked to take their designs, including garments, footwear and accessories, into production. These finished designs will be displayed at the V&A for one night during the landmark exhibition ‘Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, 1909-1929’. The display is part of a special evening entitled Ballets Russes Design Perspectives – which takes place at the V&A at 8pm on Friday 19 November and is free (hurray!) to the public.

To mark the culmination of this exciting collaboration we decided to talk to Rob Phillips, the Creative Director of the School of Fashion Design and Technology to learn more about the project. Our chat is supplemented with an exclusive look at the students' work with a fantastic look book shot by photography Sean Michael on location at English National Ballet. As we have bombarded you with lengthy, text heavy posts in recent weeks we have decided to split our discussion in two. In the first part below we set the scene and learn how the project evolved over the course of the year...

Jacket, shirt and external front pocket trousers by Sungkyun Yuk

SS: You have spent the past year working closely with the English National Ballet on this wonderfully unique project which examines the Ballet Russes and the incredible legacy of Diaghilev on dance, art and of course fashion. How did the collaboration arise?

Rob: Phillips: The collaboration was formed over a year and half ago when the ENB first approached London College of Fashion through the Fashion Business Resource Studio (FBRS - regarded as a one stop shop for the fashion industry, sharing the creative, business and technical expertise of London College of Fashion with the fashion and lifestyle industries).

ENB essentially came to the table with the idea of the collaboration to partner on a project to celebrate the centenary of Diaghilev. They were keen to work with an educational body with fashion expertise, LCF as the country’s only college to specialise in fashion education, was a natural fit.

Exaggerated contour fit, jersey marl stirrup trousers By Mishaal Mansoor

SS: How did the project evolve throughout the year

Rob Phillips: The aim of the brief was to inspire students through the work of Diaghilev and the Ballet Russes and celebrate the centenary and create a project that fused dance and fashion. The brief was tailored by me to ensure the collections that were produced were not ballet costumes made to dance in – but garments that reflected the beauty, movement and excitement of a Ballet Russes performance.

The brief allowed the students the freedom and autonomy to be creative – a key component of a brief of this kind. The project began back in Autumn 2009, it was a complex process which involved multiple pathways and courses – it is one of the rare projects that was a real cross school collaboration, and involved designers, photographers and illustrators which really enriched the whole process. Initially over 150 students took part and submitted work before Christmas 2009. The final stage of the process was the difficult task of shortlisting – which was undertaken by LCF and ENB staff to decide on which students work would be taken forward for production.

In the true spirit of Diaghilev, we prepared the shortlisted students to present their work in a number of ways including: static exhibition, photoshoot, a live salon show and documentary film. This cross genre execution also echoed the cross course collaboration. The whole project was scheduled to finish with an event at the V&A which would showcase these various outputs.

Devore striped vest and trousers – by Ng Chun Bong Julio

SS: Rarely do students have the ability to immerse themselves in such an exciting world. What was the reaction of the students to the task?

Rob Phillips: The students were really inspired by the rich history of art, music and image that they had access to. The whole Diaghilev scene was so imaginative and ‘out there’, the students celebrated the fact they could just indulge themselves in their designs which were not about being worn or designed for the high street – this project was actually about designing something to honour Diaghilev rather than a practical, wearable garments.

Circle cut sleeve shirt and hook'n'eye shorts by Tomi (Wai Yee Hoo)

Full Credit list for the shoot is as follows: Creative Director - Rob Phillips. Photography - Sean Michael. Assisted by - James Finnigan. Hair & Make Up -Dora Veronica Simson & Marina Kerecsanyi using M.A.C. Models - Jay, Abella and Jodie all at Nevs. Location - English National Ballet - Marden.

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Please do come back later on today for the second part of our discussion where we hear about the creative and design processes displayed by the students throughout the course of this very special project.

Hosting Mr Hare at Liberty's

On Friday 26th November, as part of the Liberty’s shoe weekend, Mr. Hare will be holding a Q&A session in the men’s shoe department between 5pm and 7pm. Remarkably, he has asked me to host the evening. *Gulp*. There's no doubt that I will need your moral support so please join us for our fireside chat and cocktails evening. Weighty shoe subjects such as Blake construction in wet climates, the new male sartorialism, shoe styling and the relevance of shoe classicism in a modern world will all be tackled. However, if you have a question for Mr. Hare on shoes or any other subject for that matter please do ask it.

The evening will also feature the first public viewing of the forthcoming SS11 collection ‘Ain’t No App For That’. With this collection, Mr. Hare continues to push and explore the boundaries of footwear with spectacular effect. The collection showcases shapes and materials that I've never come across before (including soft Napas, hard Vachettas, Shrunken Goat, Eel, Salmon and Ostrich shin hides). These style long, nay need to be touched and loved. We might have previewed this lust inducing collection back in September but this event will be the first public unveiling of new styles on the cubist Jopling last as well as news of other work and collaborations scheduled for the near future. If that wasn't reason enough to come down, attendees will be granted the one off opportunity to pre order styles from that collection, from the man himself, at a 15% discount. Below are a few of the many highlights of this collection...

Look book images by Marley Lohr.

So…just to recap. On Friday 26th November there will be shoes, chat, cocktails, fireplace, new stuff, discount, questions, answers, me, Mr. Hare and last but not least, you guys! If for whatever reason you can't make it but are itching to ask a question then please email us at stylesalvage@gmail.com.

Happy Birthday Fine and Dandy!

We might have differing opinions when it comes to men's style at times but both of us here at Style Salvage are united in our love and admiration for an eye catching dandy- a point hammered home when we spent about 20 minutes not-very-subtly staring at one such chap in the pub on sunday. It was inevitable then that we would fall for the accessory charms of online store Fine and Dandy. Back in June we caught up with proprietor, Matt Fox, for a transatlantic natter. Like us, Matt has an appreciation for the well dressed gentlemen of yesteryear and is inspired by their unabashed use of accessories, so this is what he stocks in his marvelous online store. Fine and Dandy is a shop which provides all the finishing details to truly be fine and dandy. One year on since launching the online store, Matt Fox and his dapper team decided to mark their anniversary by releasing a look book showcasing their 2009 offering. After congratulating the fine and dandy chaps we just had to share it with you...

Black Derby Hat, Burgundy Striped Houndstooth Bow Tie, Silver And Paisley Pocket Square

We are fortunate enough to receive quite a few look books in our inbox each week but very few leave us in a state of mirrored head nodding. This one left us marveling over the dapper accessories and the humorous photography shot by Patrick Roxas. Yesterday, Valet declared that the 'preppy-but-playful images pair nicely with the shop's new pieces' and we couldn't agree more. Dressing each morning should be fun and accessories like these provide the required pomp and colour.

Grey Diamond Hat, Purple Melange Silk Tie, Purple Handkerchief (part of set), Silver Fleur-De-Lis Cufflinks, Brushed Stainless Steel Pocket Watch

We love the fact that head wear is involved in every single look. As EJ mentioned in her campaign for hats, 'just look at the street scenes in almost any film made the 50s or earlier to see how commonly the hat used to be worn and how much better it makes almost everyone look.' Where would a dandy be without his felt ivy cap, black derby hat or grey diamond hat? The styling showcased here is inspirational for anyone looking to add a few new touches to their wardrobe this season. From the grey Herringbone Newsboy cap to a small gold key tie bar (our favourite) to an array of handkerchiefs the look book displays an array of finishing touches for the dapper amongst us.

Grey Herringbone Newsboy Cap, Grey With Red And Silver Bow Tie, Beige Handkerchief (part of set), Wood Pen, Leather Portfolio

"It’s actually really fun to spend a little bit of time every morning putting your clothes on, picking a tie, picking a handkerchief, choosing a shirt from your wardrobe, picking a jacket and a pair of trousers and putting it all together and feeling great in your wardrobe. It’s really a lovely thing to do each day." Ever the dandy, Patrick Grant, from a recent interview with SwipeLife.

Looking at the men walking the streets outside it seems a large number have men lost sight of how much fun it is to be well dressed. This look book clearly prescribes to the belief that dressing each morning should be anything but a chore or a bore. It is time to have a little fun each morning and this look book provides the required facets. This past year the chaps at Fine and Dandy have shown the way.

Brown Flecked Newsboy Cap, Grey Melange Silk Tie,Dress Stewart Wool Scarf, Gold Key Tie Bar

As we are separated by an ocean we weren't able to present the FineandDandy team with a cake complete with a single lit candle. So, we caught up with Matt Fox for another transatlantic chat and to wish the store a very happy birthday....

SS: The look book celebrates one year of Fine and Dandy. Congratulations on reaching this landmark. How has the last year been?
Matt Fox: Amazing. The response has been wonderful and we feel confident that we've set a great foundation for our brand.

SS: What has been your most fine and dandy moment?
Matt Fox: Shooting the look book was a major fine and dandy highlight. We really felt that everything we've been working on came together in that shoot and we're so pleased with how our new photos represent the Fine And Dandy look.

SS: Talk us through some of your inspirations for the look book..
Matt Fox: We wanted to have a diverse mix of formal and less formal looks. And we wanted to show how a little dandy style can be infused in most any outfit.

SS: What are your favourite pieces for AW09?
Matt Fox: Some favorites: our Brown Fleck Newsboy Cap, our Buffalo Nickel Cufflinks, and our new collection of handkerchiefs.

SS: What can we expect from you in the coming year and beyond?
Matt Fox: The big news for our European fans is that we've begun making plans to ship to Europe in the new year.

Black Crushable Felt Ivy Cap, Purple Paisley Bow Tie, Blue Multi-colored Pocket Square

Tell us more!

Hello all!

Just to let you know that we've put up a little poll on the sidebar. We're curious to know a bit more about our readers, so starting with the basics- are you manly men or foxy ladies? We've been surprised by the number of women reading the blog (you're all welcome, of course!) and wanted to find out exactly what the ratio of men to women is. If you could take a second to let us know, we'll be very grateful. The poll's going to be open for 2 weeks.

Many thanks

Steve and EJ

Happy Halloween!

Kawakubo on her collaboration with H&M

Now we’ve all seen the full Comme des Garçons for H&M collection a number of times across the online world but put aside your personal opinion of the collection and read the reasons behind the collaboration. The Independent has an interesting article chronicling the collection which includes a number of quotes from Rei Kawakubo herself.

Image courtesy of mensrag via Selectism.

"The collection is constructed around Comme des Garçons' style. Rather than aiming to make clothes that no one has ever seen before, it is very much Comme des Garçons goes [back] to its roots." Rei Kawakubo

When asked why she’d do this collaboration she answered, “I was interested in selling Comme des Garçons in a new place where it has never been sold before and to people who may never have heard of it. Usually, Comme des Garçons only sells in places where people who understand it go.” There we have the reason behind most designer collaborations: to extend the audience and potential customer base for the label. "The first objective of high-street fashion is that it sells. Designer fashion is more about new creation. In some respects, the high street represents the bad side of democracy, the lowest common denominator, but it certainly appeals to me that many people may be able to discover Comme des Garçons through H&M."

As the article points out, there is always a danger within any designer-high street collaboration that it might detract from the main event, causing customers to buy into the more reasonably priced line at the expense of the original that inspired it. However, by reverting to classic pieces, Kawakubo has ensured that this will not be the case. In fact, it is more likely that by working with H&M she will bring a whole new customer into her own, more rarefied fold.

Now that you have seen the collection and had a chance to read the thoughts from the designer herself what do you make of it all? For me personally collaborations can only be a good thing. However, I still have my doubts about the quality of the garments but that is become of my deep rooted scepticism of H&M fabric choice and garment construction (buttons should not be missing from shirts which are still on the rack!).

Buck - First Issue News

We featured the launch of the online side of the magazine earlier in the month, we are now mere days away from the global launch of the actual magazine and I've been invited to the launch! From the 30th October the magazine will be available nationwide throughout the UK as it is will be stocked in the usual places including Borders and WHSmith and even Tesco, Marks & Spencer and ASDA! OK, so I know most of you live outside of the UK but don't worry it will be available internationally! It will be on sale in 35 Barnes & Noble stores in the US, and independent retailers in New York, San Francisco, Tokyo, Paris, and Milan from issue!

BUCK is apparently the first monthly men’s magazine in the UK to feature global street style in every issue and the first to combine fashion and design articles with significant food coverage (it caters for all my favourite needs (excuse the pun)). Most admiringly and interestingly, the magazine will be a showcase for new creative talent and will feature up and coming artists, bands and actors talking about their own style and tastes. Hopefully BUCK will become a must read for me...I'm eager to get my hands on it and judge it for myself and of course I'll share it with you. My magazine addiction will no doubt continue to bankrupt me...

Chase is the VMAN but Testino Takes Over

The latest cover VMAN features Gossip Girl star Chace Crawford, shot by Mario Testino

The latest issue of VMAN (which is the first ever winter issue!) is now available. As yet I've not managed to pick it up myself but I just had to remark on the cover. The cover boy is Chace Crawford, who if you don't know stars in one of my (many) guilty pleasures TV shows (I really should get out more and more importantly not admit to these things), Gossip Girl wearing D&G plaid. I have to admit though that when I first saw the cover I asked myself 'Why is Zac Efron' on the cover of VMAN...'Is VMAN turning into TeenVogue' (another guilty pleasure). I'm not 100% sold on the styling but I've certainly had enough of Efron for one lifetime.

For the magazine's first Winter Issue Mario Testino is guest editor. Within the issue he explores the extremes of masculinity. Testino explains “masculinity has come to be determined less by a man’s exterior than by his kindness, his fairness, his taste, his behavior. Now, you can look like one thing and be completely the opposite. I’m quite fascinated by this, so I decided to do a study of the extremes of masculine identity today.” Testino photographed thirteen extreme male archetypes, including Extreme Sun (the beach bum), Extreme ink (tattooed men), and Extreme Macho (bearded men), the other ten are a mystery until I get my hands on the issue. Have anyone read it? Should I hit the streets in search of it?

Goggle Jacket: Past and Future

Back in May we featured the most exciting collaboration of the year. Style Salvage favourite Aitor Throup was asked to design the anniversary edition of C.P. Company's most iconic jackets, the 1000m Goggle Jacket. Last night, I was able to examine it up close and I've still got a smile on my face today. Ever since I encountered his mind blowingly good graduate collection back in 2006 my heart races every time I see or hear his name mentioned. Since graduating, Aitor continues to push the boundaries of technically advanced clothing and utilitarian menswear in to fresh and exciting directions. Back in April, the exciting design talent curated an exhibition to showcase the Goggle Jacket's past and present at the International Furniture Fair in Milan way back in April. Of course I was able to see much of the exhibition virtually, thanks to the wonders of the Internet , but I longed to see the showcase of design innovation up close. Thankfully an even stronger and more impressive exhibition has opened up at the RCA and I was fortunate enough to see it last night. The exhibition is now open to the public for a limited period of two days (today and Saturday, 10am until 4pm both days) so you'll have to be quick!

Exhibition folk enjoying two of the twenty iconic designs on show...

The Mille Miglia Car race, was a one thousand miles open-road endurance race that started in 1927. From 1977 until nowadays, the name was revised in 'Mille Miglia Storica', with all competing cars being pre-1957. In 1988 C.P. Company sponsored the race and for this special occasion Massimo Osti exclusively designed and produced, as a promotional piece for the Mille Miglia competitors, the very first Goggle Jacket. The Past and Future exhibition features twenty archive designs including this very first jacket. A way to celebrate C.P. Company's route through the different steps of this iconic item which, season after season, has been subject to continuous experimentation and evolution. This marvellous exhibition is a story of materials, special treatments and shape research.

One of the exhibition highlights, the evolution of Aitor's designs...

As mentioned every time I jot down the designer's name, I was fortunate enough to listen in to his conversation with Sarah Mower at the V&A last Summer and during this chat Throup's face lit up and his passion took over as soon as he started talking about this iconic jacket. Growing up in Burnley in the 90s, Aitor first became aware of the jacket adorning the backs of the football casuals. Anything connected to Massimo Osti had the most aspirational value for the terraces. As a long term fan and collaborator with C.P Company, Aitor was the natural choice for the brand to approach to redesign the anniversary edition of their cult jacket. For his own innovative design, Throup has analysed all of the original elements of the first Goggle Jacket and has looked deep into the aspects of postural anatomy. He has gone deeper than the aesthetics and functional approaches of previous designs and has created a garment even more focused on the concept of driving. Aitor Throup had this to say on the 1000m Goggle Jacket: "I have taken a literal approach to driving ergonomics and functionality, with the aim of creating a piece which is even further informed by its driving concept than the original." The most distinguishing features are goggles, watch viewer window and detachable driving pouch. Aitor truly has pushed function and ergonomics and this is evident as much in the design process as it is in the finished design. I'm certainly not aware of any other driving jacket whose shape shifts in to a driving position when required!

The look of the past and the future. Two looks used in the recent issue of i-D.

For Aitor Throup the brand has not had the respect and attention that it's iconic designs deserve. This exhibition will surely change a few people's perceptions and understanding of C.P. Company. If you are unable to make it down to the RCA in the next couple of days, hopefully my excited ramblings combined with the below video help. Thanks to James Yeomans, Aitor Throup and the whole crew at C.P. Company, Being Hunted were able to provide us with this great time-lapse video that will show you how the installation was set-up...

C.P. Company Past and Future. from James Yeomans on Vimeo.

Hear the RA all the way from Antwerp

Peeking behind the reclaimed foam curtain of RA's changing rooms.

Susie might have beaten me to the punch on this and pick pocketed my memory card for a couple of shots to rub salt in to my wounded features but this concept store is too good not to mention here. RA13 will officially open next week but we were given a sneak preview of the huge space (800 sq metres) which is already crammed full of wonder and intrigue even thought most of it was still packed in boxes. When we arrived at the store we were greeted with a dust and sawdust plume as the builders were still frantically working (even on a Sunday) on creating a truly magical space complete with a thatched cottage buying area, reclaimed cinema seating for a music area and an outdoor forest to name but a few features.

It is when we entered the fashion space that we quickly realised how exciting this store was. Not just for the city of Antwerp but for anyone close enough to hop on to a Eurostar to make the trip. Dan The Scout walked us through the huge space and talked us through the array of design talent which left both of us motionless, tongues out, salivating like two hungry stray dogs who had just wandered in to the finest butchers in town. The full lineup is mind blowing and in truth I am too lazy to type them up so I will just give you a few of the names which are currently creating quite the stir my loins; Gareth Pugh, Damir Doma, Juun J, Frank Leder, Ute Ploier, Material Boy, Makin Jan Ma, Peter Jensen and Katie Eary. I was able to nose through the well stocked Frank Leder rail and it was the first time that I had seen his designs up close and I was particularly taken with the outerwear and accessories.

The designs reminded me of the designer. In all honesty, he is a deisnger I'm not too familiar with as I've never been able to buy his design. For this season, Frank Leder continues to weave the story of the ordinary man into the fabric of his own label and this time focusses on the Bavarian poacher. The collection incorporates authentic elements from the inspiration and Dan pointed each feature out to me as we . For example, the designer crafted horn closures from deer antlers (which I'm assured are naturally shed each winter) and shirts were made from antique sheets from the 1960’s. It was great to be able to feel (and possibly buy) designs which previously I had only ever seen online.

In addition to the bounty of design talent hanging on the rails throughout the three hundred square metre fashion space, the store is going to be home to a music area, a bookstore, exhibition area, food area as well as a designer vintage section. Ra promises to be a melting pot for fashion, art, design, music, books and even fine fine food. A quick shopping visit here will no doubt turn in to a long stay as each one of my senses is treated. The experience will start in the Kloosterstraat 13 in the heart of Antwerp giving one persuasive reason for my swift return but then the team wish to extend the experience throughout the virtual world of soon to be relaunched http://www.ra13.be/. I have previously mentioned that my ultimate dream is to one day open my own menswear store and I even have blueprints bouncing around in my brain. Well, it seems that two recent Royal Academy of Antwerp graduates, Romain Brau and Anna Kushnerova, who came together at a party and dreamed up this project have infiltrated my inner thoughts and are about to unleash a store which is a doppelganger to that of dreams (albeit on a much larger scale). I just cannot wait to shop here...