My Coat, My Gift from Wooyoungmi

After seemingly months of mild, indifferent weather the first real signs of winter have induced more than a few 'brrrrr, it's a bitt nippy out' exclamations. As the mercury tumbles, I've been reaching for the neglected knits and trust winter warmers. Others might complain about the cold spell but I love these chilly mornings. These moments to layer, wrap and protect in an assortment of comfortable and practical fabrics are some of the most exciting and interesting. However, I've had to wait on my winter coat until now...

Now, you should recall that I took part in the London edition of a Wooyoungmi's collaborative project, My Coat, My Gift. Whilst raising money for Art Against Knives, the label joined forces with Selfridges in a celebration of both the classic Wooyoungmi coat 'No. 51' and the rising creative talent the city. Amazingly I was asked. The auction might have long passed but last week my own version of my collaborative coat arrived. Oh, I love it so and this weekend saw its first outing...

My own My Coat, My Gift coat from Wooyoungmi made extra warm with the addition of a wool scarf from COS, worn with thick wool trousers from Topman Design and my British Remains creepers.

I've already rambled about my creative inspiration and input in a previous post  but the simple reason why I love the jacket so down to the skills of Wooyoungmi's design team. The talented bunch managed to interpret my excitedly blurted out key words and fabric ideas and create my ideal version of their classic coat. My own My Coat, My Gift is full of texture, layers and fabric play...

A few detail shots.

Of course, it is amazing to have had the opportunity to rework one of my favourite designer's most recognised pieces (not to mention meet the lovely sister's themselves) but the real reason for this whole collaboration was to raise money for Art Against Knives, a charity using creativity to tackle knife crime in the capital. Now, I've only worn the coat a few days now but I've already been greeted with more than a few "oooh nice coat!" Moving forward, for every compliment  the coat receives, I'll donate a pound to the charity.

Details: Textured Tracks

Christmas came early last week when these Auckland Racers were left in my stocking one night last week. Missoni and Converse is a match made in dreams and the fruits of their latest creative coming together were previewed on the runway in Milan earlier this year. The unique textured upper made from black Missoni space-dyed wool is highlighted by metallic copper lamé thread for a festive feeling.

Details... New Shoes

A bright December morning like today demands wrapping up in all manner of comforting and protective layers before exploring the wintry landscape. Today's outing saw me match the crisp white wedge Airwair soles of the latest addition to my growing shoe collection, the tasty fruit of the satisfying collaboration between Dr Martens and A. Sauvage, with the frost tipped pavements.

Tweed Runnings

This weekend I joined an army of tweed clad enthusiasts for a cycle through London for the latest instalment of the Tweed Run. For those of you unfamiliar with this undeniably British celebration, the Tweed Run is a metropolitan cycle with more than a dash of style, fun and dress up. Each year, it serves up a leisurely jaunt that explores the capital all in the name of promoting cycling, gentility and the love of all things tweed. This third instalment was a special edition that celebrated the opening of the first Rugby Ralph Lauren store in Europe and took place on Saturday. The extravaganza kicked off from the new Covent Garden store before hundreds of tweed cloaked cyclists embarked on a twelve mile spin through London's streets. The route saw us explore some of the city's finest landmarks, and included a short stop off for that quintessentially British treat, a tea stop. Throughout our route, traffic and passers by alike grounded to a halt to wave us on and were greeted with a chorus of Tally ho, good morning, thankyou's and much cap doffing. It was a surreal experience all round but bloody good fun. My body might still be aching, moaning and groaning but it was well worth it.

For such a burly and utilitarian fabric, tweed is all of its glorious forms often evokes a great deal of romantically nostalgic feelings. So, it should come as little surprise that some of the outfits on show had a dash of retro about them. However, that was not the whole story as so many put their own spin on tweed. What truly excites me about this cloth is how its hues are redolent of the landscape of these Isles. Each wonderfully individual piece echoes the sea, the grass and the rugged life of where it was spun. From Berwick to the Outer Hebrides of Scotland to Ireland and beyond, this special cloth is woven throughout the British Isles. Thankfully, the outfits on show were a true celebration of this truly special, yet sadly all to often neglected cloth. I'm tempted to describe the Tweed Run as Pitti Uomo on two wheels because there is undoubtedly a peacock element to proceedings as people preen and strut in Prince of Wales check, herringbone and houndstooth with consummate ease and grace.

When I was not navigating the streets of London on my borrowed Pashley, I was taking photos of the sartorial spread on offer. Before we set off on the bum numbing journey, I took a number of portrait shots that will shortly appear on Rugby's blog but as I was captivated by the sights on show, I ended up shooting an SD card full of shots for my own personal use. Below is just a small selection of the details that caught my eye...a festival of tweed.

Had to end this roundup with a close up of the Mallory jacket from Nigel Cabourn.

Ultimately, the Tweed Run is a bit of fun. It reminds us to that dressing each morning should not be a chore or a bore. We might not take it to this extreme everyday but we should all have a little fun each morning while putting in a little extra thought in to each outfit. It’s surprisingly fun to spend a little bit of time in the morning putting your clothes on.

Style Stalking (Snapshot)... Andrew Green

Perfectly nestled inside a railway arch just off the creative hub of Kingsland Road, Primitive is a boutique, gallery and intimate event space, stocking underground designers from London and Tokyo. from the mind of Lui Nemeth and Andrew Green, this ever surprising space strives to showcase the most innovative and original creative talent through a myriad of mediums and projects. Both Nemeth and Green lived in Tokyo in a past life and the moment you walk through their giant red threshold, you feel as though you've been transported to Aoyama or Koenji. Last weekend we popped over to have a good nose through the likes of Cassette Playa, Ambush, Cottweiler and Nadir Tejani and couldn't resist shooting Andrew because he brings the rails to life...

Andrew Green outside his arch wearing... 
cap by nukeme, sweatshirt by Cottweiler, shorts by Cassette Playa, leggings and a pair of Nike Airmax Sunsets.
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Details... Hands on

Rotate for function. Tender's very own William Kroll modelling his own Hands-On mechanical wristwatch. Taken from early Twentieth Century drivers' watches, the dial is rotated by 45° to make the watch easily readable without taking your hands off the wheel of a car. Genius.

Details... Fabric mix

A closer look at one of my recent purchases. Henrik Vibskov reimagines a single breasted cotton blazer with the addition of high shine quilted fabric detailing and ribbed cuffs.

Details... Ready for a downpour

The soon to be style stalked Harris Elliot was caught layering jackets and textures for the unpredictable season. With the addition of the Christopher Raeburn Parallel Parka, Elliot is ready for everything a great British Autumn can throw at him.

Details... Leather collage

Whilst bouncing from store to store on her recent jaunt to Tokyo, Susie hopped in to the sidecar of the Blackmeans bike. As she whizzed through the bustling city she became transfixed on the Japanese label's very own Yujiro Komatsu's outfit and snapped a few detail shots of this fast moving collage of leather...

Utilising the experience of Japan's finest leather craftsmen, Blackmeans takes great pleasure in reinterpreting historic, ethnic cloth-cutting techniques in an innovative way that has kept it at the forefront of the 'New Tokyo' movement since its inception in 2008. Unsurprisingly, Yujiro Komatsu wears it well.

Gee Whiz

During my time in Tokyo this Spring, I enthusiastically pinballed my away across the sprawling city and discovered a myriad of concept spaces both large and small. One of the real highlights was Yuichi Yoshii's The Contemporary Fix. The two floored space takes a gallery approach, installing limited-time exhibitions that spotlight individual brands. The ground level is an inviting cafe and bar that rewards and rejuvenates customers with a welcome respite from consumerism whilst the second is dedicated to offering a selection of the finest Japanese labels. During my visit I was afforded the opportunity to examine a vast offering from Phenomenon, Visvim, Bedwin and The Heartbreakers, Facetasm and SASQUATCHfabrix to name but a few. However, atleast one label slipped under my radar. Thankfully, Susie was recently dispatched to cover Japan Fashion Week and on the very last day she was wowed by the Yoshii curated series of shows, Versus Tokyo. It was here that she was properly introduced to Whiz Limited.

Hiroaki Shitano launched his label in AW 2000. First as simply “Whiz”, then opting to add “Limited” three years later. His line, originally consisting of handmade printed tees for his closest friends, slowly grew in popularity and encouraged him to expanding his 'individual clothing' concept. Inspired by his native surroundings, Shitano is ever evolving his own Tokyo streetstyle outlook. Whilst being impressed with Whiz Limited's colourful parade for SS12, Susie was inspired to revisit The Contemporary Fix to treat me to a little present from the label's AW11 offering. The collection showcases a heady cocktail of prints and patterns, ranging from plaid to Native American tribal designs, to help breathe new life in to familiar staples. 

AW11 look book shots courtesy of Whiz Limited

Even confronted with the well stocked rails of The Contemporary Fix, Susie still managed to keep a clear head and plumped for the item (having had a chance to look at the entire collection) I would have snapped up for myself. A breton reimagined with the simple addition of a tribal knit trim.  

For me, the real beauty of menswear is in the details. After all, it is the small details which are so often overlooked and neglected which can transform any mediocre outfit in to something special. I've said this many times and will ever tire of saying it opting instead to celebrate the designers and individuals who take as much pleasure in celebrating and exploring them as I do. With Whiz Limited, Shitano is one such designer.

Details... Autumn layers

Thus far, Autumn has delivered unpredictable days. Warm sunshine is followed by a chill and the odd downpour. The simple way to relieve sartorial frustration is layers. Here, J. Lindeberg's very own Sam Wilson layers tweed over wool and a crisp white cotton shirt.

Minimal metamorphosis

As our eyes prepared to focus on the spring/summer 14 catwalks of New York, Converse and Maison Martin Margiela treated us to teasers of their much publicised creative coming together. For their first confident stride forward, Converse Chuck Taylor All Star and Jack Purcell trainers were drenched in Maison Martin Margiela's iconic white paint. Covering all canvas, eyelets, laces and soles, the old favourites are altered simply yet radically. All white everything. A palette and sole cleanser. For me, the French writer and aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry best defined minimalist design as being “not when there is nothing more to add, but when there’s nothing left to take away.” This is a makeover from a true minimalist iconoclast. However, what interests me most is that the white washing is just the start. As soon as the paint filled brush leaves the Converse classics, they naturally crack and shed their outer coat to reveal their original selves beneath. So simple and transformative, the hand painted act is the beginning of a unique dialogue between both brands. As they advance with age with each step forward and evolve in the everyday, they reveal their true selves in their own way. Wear and tear is rarely so intriguing and so obvious.

From well loved wallets to beautiful brogues, the gentle ageing of leather is a an ever absorbing process but it takes its time. The blank Converse canvas encourages change. Thankfully, after following fashion's conveyor belt through from London to Milan and Paris, two pairs of ice white Jack Purcells were waiting for me at the office. A few weeks of pacy peddling, puddle plummeting and pavement pounding has seen a rich burgundy hue peek out from beneath the cracks on one pair (black, blue and an exclusive yellow are also hidden behind the white wash) whilst the other is still perfectly wrapped in its thick blanket of white. Minimal metamorphosis. Using a recent paint tin spill in the car park as the ideal backdrop, I couldn't resist documenting their difference.

New new and old new. 
Converse and Maison Martin Margiela
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