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Showing posts with label Labels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Labels. Show all posts

Style Stalking...Ca


It has been far too long since we've lurked in the shadows to partake in one of our favourite past times, style stalking. The reason for the delay was finding a subject that could match our previous subject, Imelda Matt. After a few months of fruitless voyeurism we finally stumbled across an old favourite who has thankfully resurfaced on the blogosphere. Ca's previous blog, The Cablog, was a constant source of inspiration and it was a sad day when he decided to pause blogging. A number of months later and Ca has returned and we are pleased to declare that he lost none of his style. Ca is a man who knows how to use colour and play with textures to make truly wonderful, multi faceted outfits. He is a man who knows how to balance vintage, high street and labels in such a way that the admiring observer has absolutely no idea where he shops. We could wax lyrical about his style but that would only delay you from the real treat of the below visuals. Without further ado, here's the man himself introducing his diary...

"I suppose the series below is representative of my style. At least for winter here in Norway at the moment. I have always been more of an autumn/winter person in terms of clothes and fashion. The crisp cold weather makes it ideal to layer favourite pieces and bundle up. Some may find it challenging during the cold season to stay both warm and stylish, but I thing it's quite amusing. As long as you have the basics, especially quality woolen pieces, in place then I believe you can always look well put together...

All photos by my good friend Sirin Winge"

When the six day diary dropped in to our inbox our week was made. No doubt his style diary will brighten up your week too...
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Day One
A simple and casual outfit, this is how I typically look at home or school. I enjoy focusing on collar/lapel details and love to collect pins and brooches from flea markets and vintage shops. Such an easy way to add a bit of fun. These ones, however, are from a regular high street store. The moment I saw them this summer I completely fell and had to have them. Such a sucker for the nautical theme.
The jumper is from H&M, the shirt is from Zara and pins are from Accessorize, the trousers are by These Glory Days, the glasses are from Burberry and the shoes are by Massimo Dutti.
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Day Two
Another simple outfit for a regular day running errands around town. This jacket is one of my vintage gems which I waited almost three months before purchase. Warm and with the perfect fit, it's such a great piece to throw on while rushing out and about.
The hat is from H&M, the scarf is by Burberry, the jacket is a vintage Wrangler, the shirt is secondhand, the jeans are by Monkee Genes, the bag is secondhand as well and the shoes are by Vagabond.
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Day Three
Ok, so I study library science and work at an eyewear store. Sometimes I get carried away. So much for breaking down the stereotypical view on nerdy almost corporate way of dressing. But I like it and this is how I look most of the time. I try to believe that this soft floral shirt makes the look less "dusty". Anyway, the shirt reminds me of a watercolour painting and I got it dirt cheap at a secondhand store. Win win situation. If you're wondering, I am clinging onto the precious and latest issue of Monocle, one of the few magazines I actually buy.
The cardigan is from Brunns Bazaar, the shirt is secondhand, the trousers and bag are both from Zara while the bag is by Bertoni.
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Day Four
Me at my most dandy. I enjoy wearing bow ties, especially during festive Christmas season. The small leather bag around my neck is the latest obsession. Very practical to keep keys and wallet safe in place. And the coat is Lanvin for H&M, this year's winter coat purchase. The deep blue colour is wonderful. I like the long lean look and how the length makes it completely reasonable for me to make swooshing sounds while wearing it around.
The coat is from the Lanvin for H&M range, the jumper is from Gap, trousers are by Topman, the hat is from Dressman, the bowtie is H&M, the bag is from Monkee and the suspenders and shoes are both secondhand.
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Day Five
Beside collar decoration I have become fond of elbow details. This woolen/angora/cashmere mix jumper is warm, cosy and perfect for winter. Also, the colour scheme keeps the elbow patches subtle and barely noticeable. My infamous binocular bag is making an appearance here as well.
The coat is from Victor & Rolf for H&M, jumper by These Glory Days, as you can probably tell the shirt is from Burberry, trousers are by Velour, shoes from Zara and the bag is secondhand.
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Day Six
Another piece of outerwear I've found secondhand and altered at my seamstress. I like to switch between several coats during winter to keep things interesting. I find brown softer and easier to create less strict winter looks than classic black and grey.


In case you're wondering, the answer is no. I am not doing publicity for the label These Glory Days. At least not paid publicity that I know of. I have been following the label's design for a while and truly enjoy it's casual style, small sizes, simple details and finally the reasonable price level. This winter I went all out and got hold of several pieces from the autumn/winter collection. Whatever the hype, the Swedes know fashion. And as a Norwegian citizen I am making a patriotic statement for Scandinavian design. Yeah.

Final note: I am having breakfast (cranberry scones) while doing Christmas shopping here. Do forgive the silly expression.


The coat is secondhand, the hat and shirt are both from These Glory Days, the jeans are Monkee Genes and the shoes are from Zara.

All photos by Sirin Winge.
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Advent - Day Eighteen


London based stylist and consultant Stephen Mann has had a busy year. Chances are, he has had a hand in creating your favourite look book, magazine editorial and consulted on your favourite labels. Highlights of 2010 include his work with oki-ni, Hostem, Heritage Research, Inventory, The Green Soccer Journal and Arc'teryx Veilance to name but a few. Despite a hectic work schedule, Mann thankfully has enough time to update his wonderfully simple blog, thenonplace. The carefully selected assortment of products accompanied by simple text frequently offers welcome procrastination during my working day in front of the computer screen. Having enjoyed his conveyor belt of all things covetable for a number of years now, we just had to include him in our festive feature. Here's what's on his Christmas list...
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RECYCLED YARN SCARF FROM THE SOLOIST


"Under the tree I would like to find this recycled yarn scarf by Takahiro Miyashita 'The Soloist'. A scarf has fast become one of my favourite items this winter. I have been wearing cashmere silk Faliero Sarti scarfs pretty much daily for the last two months. However, this beautiful recycled yarn scarf from the fantastic 'The Soloist' line by Takahiro Miyashita is high on my list, in fact if I found anything from this line in my stocking I would be over the moon. The attention to detail and finish on this line is right up there with the best of them. Gentle shapes and fabrics and a great silhouette. It has to be one of my favourite lines of the year."
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Sunspel blows out one hundred and fifty candles


Sunspel have spent the last one hundred and fifty years perfecting the art of timeless clothing. This national institution has been making the finest English underwear and t-shirts since 1860. All of Sunspel's clothes are handmade resulting in wardrobe staples that feel deeply luxurious yet have an understated elegance and sophistication. Throughout their history they have experimented with new styles, fabric structures, knitting techniques and have collaborated with the likes of Paul Smith, Margaret Howell, Thom Browne and Kris Van Assche to name but a few. With the appointment of JW Anderson at the creative helm and the opening of their first stand alone store on Redchurch Street, 2010 has undoubtedly been a great year.  

To help them blow out one hundred and fifty candles, they have invited several leading lights from the world of design to dig deep into their archives and offer a fresh interpretation of a few of their much loved staples. Jean Touitou, the creative brains behind A.P.C has designed a classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 while the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.  Much loved Aussie skincare brand Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas. Local esteemed tailor Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polos that Sean Connery wore in the sixties whilst playing 007. Derek Harris, of Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee, designed to be worn under, you guessed it, motorcycle leathers...

A.P.C  designed classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 whilst the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.


Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polo.

Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas.

Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee.

All in all this is celebratory capsule collection that I'll happily raise my glass to for now and hopefully get my hands on at the end of the year. Here's to Sunspel.

Advent - Day Fourteen


So, here we are, day fourteen of our Advent calendar and I am full of cold. Despite my incessant sniffles and grumbles, the show must go on. Today we feature the commercial desires of one of the most active men in the industry, Steve Monaghan. Sane Communications is an agency for a selection of some of the finest fashion and lifestyle brands and covetable products on the market. His client list reads like a who's who of menswear and includes oi polloi, Lavenham, Bedouin, Happy Socks and Penfield to name just a few. Here's what's on his Christmas list...
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DARK HORN HANDLE WALKING STICK


"A walking cane and a field spaniel. The field spaniel would be called Murdoch X and the cane would come from here."
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Advent - Day Ten


When we mooted the idea of asking our favourite figures of menswear to take part in our Advent feature we wanted to think big. Well, they don't get much bigger than Paul Smith, do they? Having fallen in to the world of fashion by accident he opened his own boutique in Nottingham in 1970. Forty years on and there are twelve different collections bearing his name and his impact on British fashion is immeasurable. Sir Paul Smith is a living legend and amazingly he (via his pr) agreed to take part in our feature. Here's what's on his Christmas list...
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CANON POWERSHOT G10



“I would really like a Canon Powershot G10 camera for Christmas. I always carry a camera around with me because I like to take a lot of photos and you never know what you are going to come across.”
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Veja's Centre Commercial


The two founders of Veja have embarked on an intriguing retail project located in a neighbourhood that favours slow shopping, a few steps away from the Saint Martin Canal, and its cafés, and terraces. The space is a natural extension of the values behind the label and combines fashion with social commitment and artistic projects with environmental concerns. For those of you unfamiliar with the label, the origin of the Veja project can be summed up in one question: is another world possible? 

Over the last six years Veja have helped put forward their answer by creating a global chain that emphasises solidarity and the environment, from the small producers in Brazil to the European concept stores that sell its growing product range. Centre commercial offers labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark and houses second-hand bicycles, vintage furniture and art works. It is a collective space, uniting local, social and environmental initiatives. The retail space showcases their varied but ultimately complimentary influences. Here we speak with Veja's Aurélie Dumont to learn more about the store and the brands plan for the future. 


SS: Centre Commercial instantly feels likes the antidote to fast paced retail. Was this one of the driving catalyst for the project?
Aurélie Dumont: Yes, Centre Commercial has been thought of as a place to slow down.  Reminiscent in the ways of our grandparents, we wanted to favour know-how and continuity. Rather than mere products, Centre Commercial will curate genuine projects.

SS: How did the project arise, was it always part of the Veja plan, if not how did it evolve?
Aurélie Dumont: Veja was created in 2004 with the intention of proving that it is possible to work differently. We have created a strong social, economic and, ecological chain from small producers in Brazil to the doors of European stores. During these past two years we have started adding a cultural dimension to Veja having been inspired by people we have met along the way: designers with really great projects going far beyond the ecology or meeting artists with fascinating messages. We started organising art exhibitions and a series of unconventional talks, and we soon felt that we needed a space to feature those messages.

Centre Commercial is meant to be a place to slow down and to question what we consume through a selection of locally made clothes and accessories, furniture sourced by antique dealers, committed installations and artistic projects, bicycles revamped by a social charity and shortlisted books and publications.

SS: What does Centre Commercial mean to you?
Aurélie Dumont: In a way, the name itself refers to mass consumption. The name is a nod to the works of the French philosopher Bernard Stiegler and suggests questioning our consumption habits. Centre Commercial is a shopping center. A selection of clothes, accessories, furniture, bikes, cosmetics, books and publications has been put together…. a shopping center then …but modeled after us. 

SS: Like the Veja label itself, the space manages to combine fashion with social commitment and artistic projects with environmental concerns. It is a space infused by your varied but ultimately complimentary influences. How did you curate the store?
Aurélie Dumont: Centre Commercial is meant to be a place to slow down and to question what we consume through a selection of locally made clothes and accessories, furniture sourced by antique dealers, committed installations and artistic projects, bicycles revamped by a social charity and shortlisted books and publications.  Among the selected wardrobe for both men and women you will find brands such as Knowledge Cotton Apparel whose shirts are crafted in Denmark using organic cotton, Saint James who has been knitting their fisherman style jumpers in Brittany since the 1950’s or La Botte Guardiane whose boots and shoes are hand-made in the French Camargue following traditional methods.

An enticing mix of product from labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark.

SS: Centre Commercial offers labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark whilst housing second-hand bicycles, vintage furniture and art works. Are the brands and individuals involved friends of Veja? How did you find the right mix of products?
Aurélie Dumont: Our ambition was to create a space which would work as a catalyst for projects and initiatives we like.  Ties between those projects will probably arise where we don’t expect them.  From fine artists to fair trade certification bodies, we will feature individuals and companies which work differently.

Veja and Gloverall

SS: Would you be able to talk us through some of your favourite products currently in store?
Aurélie Dumont: One of the most interesting discoveries so far has been the quarterly French XXI publication. XXI features seasoned novelists, recognized investigative journalists and major graphic novelists depicting our current world through well-documented and in-depth articles. Both the latest issue and the 11 back issues are available at Centre Commercial.

SNS Herning knits

SS: Aside from fabulous product, what do you hope the consumer will take away from the store?
Aurélie Dumont: We hope that they will take away the feeling that trade can be done in a different way while experiencing a certain aesthetic. Centre Commercial aims to be a place where minds can meet. The book selection for example, contrary to what is on offer in a traditional library, counts only ten books in total. These have been carefully chosen by a French editor, they are his current selection of great books he’d like to share. That selection will be periodically renewed by each new literary specialist.

Knowledge Cotton Apparel whose shirts are crafted in Denmark using organic cotton


SS: The store sounds far from static, the curation of product and art is an on going endeavor. How would you like to see the store evolve? Is there anything that you are particularly looking forward to in the near future (for example a particular delivery of product or upcoming exhibition?
Aurélie Dumont: Centre Commercial opened last week featuring the fine artist Kleber Matheus from São Paulo, whose works are made from neon light tubes. More exhibitions will be unveiled in 2011. For the coming months we will have more ‘made in France’ garments, some promising accessories and a new exciting project around bikes.


Centre Commercial aims to slow down the retail experience.

SS: Finally, what's next for Veja?  
Aurélie Dumont: 2010 has seen the launch of Projet Numero Deux, our debut line of day bags and accessories in collaboration with London-based store Darkroom and the exclusive web platform oki-ni.com. Vegetable tanned-leather wallets and laptop sleeves made of organic cotton have just been released. For 2011 we have worked on new exciting styles and an exclusive collaboration with French Trotters which will be soon uncovered!

Centre Commercial is located at 2 Rue de Marseille in Paris.

Advent - Day Nine


Under the design stewardship of Pierangelo D'Agostin, J.Lindeberg has continued its endeavour of redefining modern classics with a Scandinavian point of view. By respecting old traditions and combining them with the technical advancements of today, D'Agostin has helped to create collections to covet. Having recently had the pleasure to talk through the SS11 collection with the man himself, it was clear how important fabric development was to both his design process and the energy of the revitalised label. So, when we asked D'Agostin to take part in our Advent calendar it came as little surprise that the designer was dreaming of his latest fabric swatch...
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FABRIC SWATCH PROTOTYPE


Tokyo 08 12 2010


"I have just arrived from Beijing. I have been developing cashmere yarns and have been designing knit items for more than twenty years.

I met Mr. Duan who has just come back from the Inner Mongolia. He brought me a trial of the finest raw yarns in pure cashmere, I have never seen.

I was thrilled. This cashmere is shed from the goats living at an altitude of 3000 and 3500 meters in the sustainable ecosystem.

We made a swatch and it was like a Shahtoosh. Now he is testing a prototype. I wish to receive it in time for Christmas."

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Discovering London Cloth Company and Purposeful Activity

Based in the heart of Hackney, the London Cloth Company in a wonderful surprise. Over the last few months, whispers of the existence of this flourishing micro mill located just a short jaunt from my flat have increased to sincere shouts to go and visit it from the likes of S.E.H Kelly and Daniel Jenkins,  both of which use the fabulous tweed that it produces. Having had the opportunity to travel seven hundred odd miles to experience Harris Tweed first hand, falling in with the craft in the process, it would have been ludicrous to fail to hop on the Overground for a few stops. So, as soon as I admired its fruits used in a stunning tobacco wool tweed peacoat, I popped along to explore the goings on behind its unassuming door during a festive open day at the mill last weekend.  

Nestled in a quiet residential area, the workshop is a hive of activity and a treasure trove of machinery. Daniel Harris, the one man-mill behind it all, is part weaver, part engineer. This is his passion, his life. He’s restored old equipment, gleaned advice from masters of the loom and has learnt on the job to develops fabrics for designers, tailors and interested individuals alike. "We prefer not to issue extensive swatch books as we tend to work directly with our customers to create bespoke fabrics," Harris excitedly rolls out as his mind imagines the possibilities. Possibilities that are beginning to be realised as a growing band of designers fall for the charms of his unique mill.

The workshop is home to reclaimed machinery dating from as early as 1850, and includes an ever-growing number of power looms and bobbin winders, and even a warping mill. This gives The London Cloth Company, the capability to facilitate the weaving process from start to finish. "There have been traumatic moments," admit Harris before taking a sip of mulled wine and continuing, "When I was searching for the ideal loom initially, I got a call from a man in Scotland who was retiring, 'Right, you can have it but you've got come and get is soon'. How soon I nervously asked. 'Today' came the emphatic response. Off I went, as soon as I possibly could. We left London at 6am, drove 630 odd miles and arrived at 10pm. Bearing in mind that I'd never seen such a loom in person before, I found them all grinning in the car park, pleased with themselves at taking the machine to pieces. I had to look at a few pictures." Little dampens Harris' passion for quality.

The space is home to a trio of Hattersley looms, the likes of which I've only previously seen in the shed of Donald John MacKay as I experienced Harris Tweed two years ago now, a Frankenstein's monster of a loom built from leftover parts (from the 1920s, the wartime era and the 60s or later) and a three and a half ton, semi automatic beast from Herbert Brown that caused another logistical nightmare. "We had to move this one seven hundred miles. Again, I wanted a slightly smaller one but this beauty was the only one available. It was on the third floor of a mill. I had to hire a crane to lift it out of the building, part of the roof had to removed and it then it had to be broken down into smaller parts to get it to the new home." And what a home. I can't imagine a better guardian than Daniel Harris. Allow me to take you on a little tour of his well crafted world...

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Exploring Daniel Harris' impressive space and snapshots of the weaving process from a pedal powered single loom to a semi automatic monster. 

Used to travelling for my love of documenting craftsmanship, I never dreamt that I would be able to explore and document a flourishing mill located in the heart of my adopted city. As Daniel Harris' vision and capabilities evolve, I'm sure this will be the first of many visits to the London Clothing Company and the hunt begins to find similar individuals located closer to home. Helping me in this search could well be Daniel Jenkins who has just unveiled Purposeful Activity, a considered label made from British materials and with British makers, including London Clothing Company, that will sit alongside his buy from the likes of Lou Dalton, Tender and Baartmans & Siegel. Considering his pursuit of celebrating British menswear, this is a natural and well thought out evolution.

"Time and time again, I was becoming increasingly depressed by the constant chatter that you couldn’t produce unfussy, garments in this country using British materials without having to charge high prices. I felt this to be nonsense. Therefore I decided to show the fallacy of that notion." Jenkins explains. As the first few pieces go live on his site, the British menswear retailer is certainly proving a worthwhile  point.

"I don't want this to become a seasonal fashion label. If we can source a great cloth or come up with an interesting garment then we will put it into production. When it is ready, it'll go online. That's pretty much what happened with Daniel Harris. I happened upon a French blog post about him and thought I would drop him a line. Half an hour later I was stood in the factory and ten minutes after that I had ordered some fabric with no idea what to do with it. To me that's how the best things in business work. Having too much of a plan is a silly idea. It's nice to have an idea but, the ten year business plan idea doesn't apply to fashion. Ten hour business plan more like it. 

The cloth we are working with is exceptional. Same with the shirting. The best thing about both is that they will improve with age and aren't filled with an artificial story. I live - as you know - five minutes from where our cloth was woven. Our first store was about half an hour's drive from where the shirts were sewn. The factory we use in London for tailoring is great, the guys who run it know everything there is to know. Our garments made along side the biggest names."

Having known Jenkins for a number of years now and seen his unwavering support of British menswear, it is a pleasure to see him take it to the next stage. "This is truly a culmination of what we've done for the past five or so years. A chance to show off a different side of the fashion industry that many don't get to see." A side that we love to see. The fact that he was wearing two of the first items under the Purposeful Activity label, the Byron shirt and Nelson Jacket, as we explored Daniel Harris' workshop couldn't have been more perfect and I, of course, had to document it. Also, it was great to see Harris' delight at the sight of his tweed tailored in such a way...

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Daniel Jenkins wearing the Byron shirt in wine Bengal and the Nelson jacket.

Daniel Jenkins has always strived to offer a retail platform for the best of British menswear and the launch of this considered collection of wardrobe staples is a Goodyear welted step forward. This might only be the beginning for Purposeful Activity and I'm keen to see how it evolves as Jenkins uncovers more makers to support and to collaborate with. But more than this, he hopes it will inspire others. I'll leave you with the below war cry.

"I'm amazed by how far British menswear has come but it still has a long way to go. Anything I can do to help I shall. Hopefully this will play a small part in getting the message out that our cloth is great, our factories fantastic and we as a nation are ready and willing to create things which will blow the world away."