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Highlights of 2010

Now, we couldn't wave goodbye to 2010 before highlighting a few of our favourite posts of the year. Over the last twelve months we have posted three hundred and something times but below are a selection of the very best...
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Style Salvage Speaks To...Hannah Martin - We set out to learn more about her and the craft of jewellery design and what better way than to visit Hannah Martin at her studio for a cup of tea and a chat. Here we talk to the designer about her work placement at Cartier, Russian gangsters, the influence of Count Saint Germain on her next collection and seeing her at LFW through her collaborations with Carolyn Massey and Hannah Marshall.
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Dr Martens: The craft of an iconic shoe - On April 1, 1960 the first pair of Dr. Martens was produced by the Griggs factory in the village of Wollaston in central England. Eight eyelets, ox blood red with distinctive yellow stitching, the design was dubbed "1460" after the date of its creation. More than one hundred million pairs of Dr. Martens have been sold since that first pair was unveiled 50 years ago. To help celebrate reaching landmark Dr. Martens invited a few of us bloggers up to their Wollaston factory to help cover the event.
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The Craft of Cheaney -  Cheaney represent the height of English Bench Made shoe making. It takes eight weeks to make a pair of Cheaney shoes, it involves around one hundred and sixty hand operations, from cutting the leather through to finishing, combining the best of contemporary design with superb quality. Given how much of a factory pervert I am, you can only imagine how many photographs I took as William Church guided me through and in to the nooks and crannies of this well oiled assembly line of true craftsmanship.
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Experiencing Harris Tweed - The story of Harris Tweed is one of a remote island community that lies between the Highlands of Scotland on the north west tip of Europe and the North Atlantic Ocean. I have lusted over this truly unique fabric and have longed to visit the beautiful setting in which it is created for some time now. Thankfully, the launch of the Nike Air Royalty Harris Tweed meant that myself and Susie were invited up by the sportswear giant.
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Nigel Cabourn's Studio -  Nigel Cabourn has worked in the fashion industry for forty two years, yet his clothing has very little in common with most people’s understanding of fashion. Cabourn is a designer who is driven by his longstanding passion for vintage clothing, fabric and details. He has collected vintage clothing since the 70s after falling for their charms on visits to Portobello Road with Paul Smith. Since then he has amassed an archive of over four thousand pieces. It is this ever expanding vintage collection that is the cornerstone of each collection, not a response to a particular trend or demand. Each collection has a real story, is grounded in history and integrity underpinned by the highest level of quality.
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Style Stalking...Imelda Matt - You might think that the phrase 'style stalking' is an exaggeration, but this time you'd be wrong. Ever since we laid eyes on Imelda Matt in a gold suit we knew we just had to get him to do a style diary for us. After months (no, really) of chasing, cajoling and downright begging, he agreed to let us showcase seven days of Imelda style.
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Style Stalking...Ca - After a few months of fruitless voyeurism we finally stumbled across an old favourite who has thankfully resurfaced on the blogosphere. Ca's previous blog, The Cablog, was a constant source of inspiration and it was a sad day when he decided to pause blogging. A number of months later and Ca has returned and we are pleased to declare that he lost none of his style. Ca is a man who knows how to use colour and play with textures to make truly wonderful, multi faceted outfits. He is a man who knows how to balance vintage, high street and labels in such a way that the admiring observer has absolutely no idea where he shops.
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A Visit to Trunk - The year has seen a number of exciting menswear stores open their doors in the capital but Trunk Clothiers is something quite special indeed. Located over two floors on Marylebone’s Chiltern Street, Trunk introduces a much needed new style to the menswear retailing scene in the capital which I was able to experience for myself. The seventy square metres brings together a carefully curated selection of the finest menswear and accessories from across the globe. Trunk is a store that sets the standard for gentlemen seeking modern classics of the highest quality matched with impeccable service.
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Trousers sandwiched by the seasons

My current favourite in-between look

Through a combination of the somewhat confused and unpredictable weather over the last few weeks and the influx of Spring/Summer 09 editorials and look books (with a few sale purchases thrown in to spice things up a little bit), there seems to be a confrontation between what I should wear and indeed what I want to wear (which at times becomes more than a mere scuffle in my mind and wardrobe)...The bedroom is often transformed in to a well fingered H&M display, much to the annoyance of Susie...

Today it was the turn of my Unconditional Wrap trousers to take the sartorial punches and accessorising hair pulling...


In the winter corner we have a pile of knits, including a bargain of a Uniqlo jumper, the recently acquired huge cowl by Yokoo, shiny Lanvin boots and black M&S leather gloves which were of course a Christmas present...


In the Spring corner we have white sheer shirt by Handmade in England, navy blue cardigan jacket from COS (a sale buy) and white Chukka Boots by Vans.

Am I suffering these somewhat schizophrenic attire choices alone or are you feeling as confused as I am?

British menswear in 2010 and beyond


Now, I had started to embark on an epic review post and spent a few hours revising bookmarks and admiring saved images. I began reminiscing over the colour rich Jil Sander SS111 show which was held in the elaborate garden of a spectacular villa in the far hilly reaches of Florence, the dazzling lazer display at the culmination of JW Anderson's SS11 show, experiencing the making of Harris Tweed in the Outer Hebrides and my numerous retail discoveries throughout the year. The last twelve months have been fruitful and have seen us enthuse, reveal and discuss a myriad of menswear subjects over the course of three hundred and eight posts. However, having seen the gluttony of 'Best of' lists clogging the arteries of the blogosphere, I have decided to take a different stance. Yes, 2010 has been a good year but how can we make 2011 a great year?

Having given the subject more thought than any of the other aforementioned volume of posts, I decided to look at the state of British menswear. Menswear Day during London Fashion Week has certainly  continued to grow over the course of two schedule packed days in 2010. Presentations, catwalk shows and film screenings have all celebrated the exciting diversity of menswear design talent which uniquely exists in this capital of ours. It has been hugely exciting to see stalwarts of Savile Row sit so comfortably alongside high street regulars, established designers and enthralling new talent alike. Both  days helped cause a sartorial stir or two whilst collectively flying the flag of menswear and tiring me out in the process. Dense, exciting schedules and flag waving aside, I have found myself with more questions than answers when I come to give British menswear design the once over. Have these ever evolving moments really pushed British menswear design forward as far as they can? Is Menswear Day enough? Are retailers really supporting the talent? Can the design talent that I celebrate forge viable and successful businesses? Are we, as consumers, doing enough?

In moments of questioning, it is always helpful to turn to a different voice.  As I have enjoyed so many discussions with menswear retailer Daniel Jenkins this year, it was fitting to hear his thoughts on the subject... 
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"What is the point of British menswear? Now I must confess to being redhanded and place my cards upon the table. Anyone who receives a Christmas or birthday present from me is accepting ill gotten gains funded by British fashion.

Confession aside I have no interest in using this article to promote the labels that we already sell and those that we will sell in the future. I believe in what we buy and therefore if it doesn't sell I take full responsibility. This leads into my main point, Steve mentioned the end of year review to me a few months ago. I'll admit I was slightly wrapped up in finding the best flat white in London (Woman in Present if you are interested always go for the 6oz). Dalston cliche aside it made me think. So much so I had a rant which I have managed to slightly temper. Two days later I was fortunate to be invited to take an economist around the Whitechapel Gallery with the aim of ignoring the art and discussing the future of British fashion. The question was should British fashion be 'saved' or not. I spent two hours arguing for its survival then received a text message about something far more important and realised the charade was up. Perhaps it shouldn't be 'saved'. 'Saving' as it currently stands could in fact damage it further.

I see it like this. I understand that many within the industry disagree with me and think me a fool for expressing my views however, I simply cannot go on any longer labouring under the pretence that this situation is adequate, normal or acceptable. Despite this year having spent more time with my head in books than look books trying to figure life out, I have seen enough to realise that in terms of sheer design the industry in the UK is in rude health. I don't care who you are or what you do I simply cannot understand any argument claiming that there is better design talent outside of the United Kingdom. Yesterday, Steve and Eliza ran a feature on Joe Casley Hayford, a sublime talent who along with Charlie is changing how the world dresses. This is what we do in the UK. We set the parameters. Yet the press discussion about the best labels, the most exciting stores, the items that men truly would sell their girlfriend for always includes items predominately from outside of this sceptred isle. Why is this? The power of paid for advertising or a deeper and more dangerous issue? We are in real danger of losing a lot of talent which if given a little bit more of a push could really achieve something.

We have a dedicated 'Menswear' day at London fashion week. This I applaud for its intention and execution - this year it was highly professional, but it isn't enough. I'm bored with the conversation that the menswear industry in the UK will simply never be profitable enough. This is sheer nonsense perpetuated by those unwilling to take a risk. We need to ask ourselves why isn't it working. Why are labels having trouble cementing themselves? Each time I read an article about how rosy British menswear is I'm reminded of John Le Carre's words in 1963 'men condemned to death are subject to sudden moments of elation; as if, like moths in the fire, their destruction were coincidental with attainment'.

Please don't confuse me with someone wishing to do damage to the industry. Yes my suit may be painted black and I might admire and enjoy  Auden's poetry noir whilst taking a wistful glance through memories but, I just want to give those with talent in this country a fair and level playing field. If they fail then so be it. They would always have done so. To deny them the opportunity to succeed or fail because they aren't immediately commercially viable is criminal. I understand the financial implications better than most. We are funded solely by sales. If we do not sell we cannot continue operating. I believe that we have a duty to promote those that perhaps would not be given the chance elsewhere. Yes we profit from it, I run a business and I attempt daily to challenge Tony Wilson's mantra regarding history and money  - failing probably on both counts - because someone once took a chance on Ralph Lauren, Alexander McQueen and anyone you could care to mention. Yes, these were business decisions but they were also seven inch leap's from heart to head.

There are those making a difference and there are solutions which have been proffered from greater communication between independent stores and the BFC, increased presence at Paris fashion week - London falls outside of the majority of foreign buyers' schedule each season. An understanding that talent in this country does occasionally need guidance in making sure that they aren't let down by manufacturers, stores and other parts of the 'fashion chain'. If these steps were undertaken I'd be part way to happiness and if the BFC or anyone with ideas regarding how we can turn 2011 into a watershed, wishes to contact me then I'm ready, daniel@danieljenkins.co.uk"
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I don't know about you but I found myself nodding quite a bit throughout this rant. More, on a number of different levels, can be done. For me, one of the real positives of the year has seen the real gems of British menswear take important steps towards Paris. The LONDON ShowROOMS have been successfully running for five seasons now but SS11 saw it extend to include some of the best emerging menswear talent in the UK. The scheme, a joint collaboration by the British Fashion Council, Fashion East and The Centre for Fashion Enterprise took fourteen designers to show in Paris. The likes of Bernstock Speirs, Blaak, BOYOstudio, Carolyn Massey, Christopher Kane Men's, Christopher Raeburn, Miharayasuhiro + Husam el Odeh eyewear, James Long, Katie Eary, KTZ, Lou Dalton, Omar Kashoura and Tim Soar were all present. Their designs showcased at a time in line with the real buying season. Regardless of talent, in order to survive, our favourite designers require sales and even though Menswear Day is wonderful theatre, I'd love to see the very best of our talent continue to charm the world. Here's to British menswear design talent winning over buyers and consumers in the same way that it has won critical plaudits in recent seasons.

Losing it

Since reading this post over on iCiNG I have been mulling over the topic of losing your hair. I was racking my brains all over Christmas for some good bald/balding icons, only to kick myself for my stupidity when I caught a bit of The King and I on TV. Yul Brynner is surely the most obvious choice?
YulAnd while he is probably best known for his completely bald look (above) as sported in the King and I, I think he looked quite dashing in his younger days when he still kept a bit on top.

This is a Beaton picture I think

The supreme neatness of the hair he does have is vital to the look. And this just set the ball rolling. There are so many balders (not yet baldies, you see?) out there to admire! The trick to it, as always, is excellent grooming.

Lunching in styleThis is perfectly illustrated here by Mr Astaire. While he does have his hair reasonably long it is slicked down and back at all times with no attempt to hide the arches of his hairline. His skin is clear and healthy looking and, as usual, he is clean shaven.

I've noticed quite a few indie boys trying to disguise a receding hairline by growing a long sweep of hair to use as a fringe. I hate to break it to you boys, but I'm beginning to feel that this the the modern equivilant of the comb-over... you're fooling no one my dears. I did consider finding a picture to illustrate this point but I thought that would be a little bit too mean. Maybe your new influence, if you don't like the swept back look should be Brandon Flowers? I think he's giving you evils

His hair is short here and ever so slightly pushed forward. I'd be interested to see what he will do once it REALLY starts going though. I was also going to use Jude Law as a muse here but, if I'm honest, he creeps me out nowadays.

Inspired... Lou Dalton AW13

Since launching her own line in 2005, Lou Dalton has refined a well crafted reputation for rebellious English sportswear with a keen eye for and attention to detail whilst establishing herself as the real shining starlet of British Menswear. As London menswear has demanded an ever increasing presence at LFW and respect far beyond the perimeter of the capital, evolving from an afternoon in to three full days of shows, presentations, previews, installations and exhibitions under the umbrella of London Collections: Men, Dalton has matured in the spotlight, built a brand and helped pave the way forward. 

One week today, all eyes will be on the blossoming design talent once more as she opens the sophomore edition of London Collections: Men. Having had a sneak preview of the collection which includes an exciting shoe collaboration, tactile knitwear and soft tailoring to obsess over and further evolved signatures,  I'm certain she will take more confident and assured steps forward, beckoning the rest of London menswear to do the same. As a little teaser to what Dalton will unveil in seven days, we sit down with the designer to talk through the narrative and influences behind the season. Sitting in her East London studio I was quickly transported six hundred odd miles to the coastlines of Shetland as the designer excitedly talked me through her mood board. Escape with us...

"This season I returned to one of my favourite films, Local Hero. I had watched it a while back but shortly after showing Spring/Summer 2013, my partner Justin was away and I rummaged through all of my old DVDs and found it again along with Ryan's Daughter. I have referenced Ryan Daughter to a small extent, there's just one scene from the film where the freedom fighters are on the beaches pulling in the illegal arms and they're wearing these oil skins in the pouring rain and I was drawn to the scene's rawness and how dark it was, in particular the Irish terrain and the backdrop that it is set against. The small village that the film is set shares characteristics to that of Shetland as captured in Bill Forsyth's feature. For me, Local Hero is one of the best films that I've ever seen, set in a place that I have such fond personal memories of. I met Justin in Shetland over nine years ago and I spent three years commuting back and forth from the area during the early years of our relationship. It it is quite simply one of the most amazing places that I've been to. I think Laurence Ellis' film (that he shot for my autumn/winter 2010 collection) captures the essence of how Shetland is, it's this open, amazing, wild place but it is so warm and welcoming. I absolutely loved spending time there and I have this crazy dream of owning a croft at some point. It will always be an inspiring place to me.

When I watched Local Hero again with Burt Lancaster playing a Texan oil worker who goes out to this rural town in the Scottish highlands with the desire to build a whopping big oil rig but soon falls in love with the special place. Theoretically, that's what happened to Shetland. At one point, it was the biggest oil port in Europe. I latched on to this development in a sense but it had much more to do with the characters, the terrain, the rawness and everything about the area. I loved everything about the film and it reminded me about my own experiences. I started pulling references from there, from utility and work wear after looking at the boy on the rig, the city boy in the country feel influenced the tailoring and there's a particular fabric that we've pulled from an Italian mill that reminds me of the flock and rawness of the sheep whilst the knitwear takes inspiration from the identification markings on the sheep which has this form of branding. 

I know that when I talk about being inspired by Shetland, people will think "oh, this is Lou being right country, a heritage feel' and there might be an element of that but once you see the collection, you'll see that there's much more to it than that. This particular collection feels even more personal whilst the fit and shapes are very much from spring/summer. I want the guy that is buying Lou Dalton to feel confident and trust in the continuation from season to season..."



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Snapshots of Lou Dalton's mood board for AW13.

"I do feel the pressure of showing first (at London Collections: Men). Everyone has been so supportive and I never do anything half heartedly. This collection means an awful lot and there's shedloads of work still to do. I won't settle until it is all done, to the level that I want it to be at. I said it to Charlie Porter previously but if I could get the label the point of being a self financed menswear designer from the UK that can compete with those big boys then that would be a massive achievement. It's unchartered territory. I think the label is at the point at which it could soar to the next level or stagnate and I desperately want it to fly on. I feel as though I've pushed myself harder than ever for this collection and we've also been pushing at the same time with production of Spring/Summer 13 which was the largest that it has ever been. It'll be quite special if I pull everything off."

I have every confidence that she will. Long may London menswear follow the lead of Lou Dalton. Here's to London Collections: Men and beyond.

Looking back with the help of Penthouse

First things first, we hope you all had a very Merry Festive Break! Secondly, as we prepare to bid farewell to 2008 our thoughts are often preoccupied by the promise of a New Year (I was reliably informed by Charlie Brooker that they will call this new year 2009...to be honest with you I'm a little disappointed, my fingers were crossed for it to be named Steve...the Year of Steve has a much better ring to it) but lets be different. We often look forward at this stage in the year but one of my Christmas presents has helped me challenge this usual festive occurrence and I've decided to swivel my neck owl like and look back...way back. The presents in question were two old issues of Penthouse - The Magazine for Men (from 1968 and 1969 respectively). and unfortunately, it is safe to say that they don't make them like that anymore. The content is wonderfully diverse, for example articles include; an interview with Steve Abrams who champions the campaign to legalise cannabis, The Promiscuity Myth which discusses how homosapiens have always 'gone in for' marriage, The Do-It-Yourself Capitalist, an interview with Otto Von Habsburg who was once heir to the Austro-Hungrarian empire and became a political author and lecturer. I would love to unearth a magazine which covered such an eclectic mix of issues today (with the odd shot of a natural breast or two thrown in as well) but for now I will just have to settle for Monocle but will write to Tyler Brûlé in the New Year requesting a few bare breasts. As well as great articles there are a couple of interesting editorials, not to mention a few classic advertisements which will provide inspiration for the coming year.

Apologies for the poor image quality (I really need to invest in a scanner)...

Skin Game is my favourite editorial and sees a wonderful combination of monochrome, smoky /soft focus shots with sheepskin jackets and a pigskin suede trench coat. Accompanying the imagery was the following blurb which seems hell bent on ensuring the readers knows where the materials came from...Button out the cold this winter in sheepskin and suede. Bulk has been sheared away with body-shaping and closer-fitting cut. There are many exciting new colours this season, too. After all, once the original owner has died there is no reason why its and coat shouldn't be dyed, too - makes it more individual for the next owner. As for wear and warmth, that remains built-in. Lasts a lifetime-and it did for the previous owners.

I've never seen this many buckles in one shot...

Something Afoot
sees an organised pile of varied shoes used to breathe new life into the old adage that 'you can tell a gentlemen by his shoes' by suggesting that you can now (well since 1968) tell
that the gentlemen is in fashion. I adore this double page spread but rather than inspire me to put my best foot forward, I have to agree with the title that there is something afoot and it seems to be the penchant of double buckles and too much tanned leather...

There were just sooo many poses to choose from but here are two of my favourite looks

Get in the picture with ICI Fibres depicts Seth Cohen's style icon in an album of leisurewear made from a combination of relatively new fandangled fabrics ranging from bri-nylon, bri-nova and crimplene...but I love the poses more than anything else and will certainly try a few in my upcoming style posts...

So, rather than let your thoughts get distracted by the promises of tomorrow why not take some time out and have a look back at the past. You don't have to look at old porn magazines but I would certainly recommend it!

In discussion... 2010


The desire to develop a dialogue around men's style and fashion has always been one of our key motivations to blog and this year we embarked on a new series that aimed to stoke the fires of menswear conversation. Each month, starting from May, we invited a cross section of thoughts on and around a range of subjects from the most stylish men they've ever known to the best piece of style advice they had ever heard. Over the course of the year, we heard from a mixed bag of knowledgeable folk air their thoughts and responses came from designers, store owners, PRs, journalists and a few fellow bloggers alike. With this in mind, we couldn't turn the page on the last twelve months without hearing from a few of our favourite figures of menswear on their highlights of 2010...
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"My highlight of the year for menswear would be Dries Van Noten's Fall 2010 collection. Never before have I wanted so much from one collection and I've been buying quite a bit."
Tommy Ton, photographer and blogger.
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"I think personally, making the film that we did for SS11. I find fashion film difficult, its often horribly self indulgent and pointless with it, with little or obvious narrative. We wanted to make something interesting, odd and beautiful, and I'm my harshest critic, but I think we came up with something pretty special there."
Carolyn Massey, designer.
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"Collaborating with Mogwai and Woolrich Woolen Mills for The Rig Out short film was the highlight of my year. A week spent in the north of Norway in July, messing about on glaciers and the odd weird effect of 24 hour daylight was very cool. Plus, the film's not bad too. Check it out!"
Glenn Kitson, co-founder of the Rig Out magazine, PR and brand consultant.
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"My highlight of 2010 was getting let loose in the RRL showroom for the first time. The environment was incredible and with everything RRL no stone had been left unturned. The collection was authentic Americana Vintage and one of the best I had seen all year. I can’t wait to see it launch in store in February in the first RRL shop in shop in Europe."
Stephen Ayres, Menswear Buying Manager at Liberty.
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"The best find of 2010 for me is Japanese brand Sasquatchfabrix. We are the first to bring this over from Japan and I have no doubt that in the coming years this brand will be on peoples radar in a big way. I absolutely love the aesthetic and the raw feeling of this brand."
Dan Mitchel, Buyer at LN-CC
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"The highlight of my fashion year has to be the number of decent menswear stores that have opened up in London over the past 12 months. It is the first time in many years that London has a retail landscape which reflects some of its unique energy."
Joe Casely-Hayford, designer.
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"The most exciting Fashion find of 2010 was all the fatboy fashions coming for SS11. Mr. Hare is only a healthy, bon vivant, size 54, yet even stores in which my shoes are stocked only keep there ranges up to a 52, which in the week before fashion week, due to stress and over work I can just about squeeze into. A few Parisien steak tartares later though and I am back in the land of ass. But this coming summer whether it is Prada's tie front (Karl Kani) jeans and shorts or Diors " I used to be fat but look at me now yo!! Lost 60lbs in sixty minutes at the LIPO-Fatty spa." Or even Haider Ackermans Opium den proprietor/Lothario apparel Fat is where it's at. And our style icon, yes, we wish you were still here...Fat Joaquin!"
Mr Hare, shoe enthusiast and designer.
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We will be posting our own review of the year tomorrow which will include the thoughts of Daniel Jenkins. In the meantime, why not tell us about your menswear highlight below...