Bluebirds are so natural...

I hope you all had a very merry Christmas and are gearing up for your new year celebrations (be that expensive or cheap, hangover guranteed or a quiet night in). I am now back in London where I belong after having a quiet Christmas with the family by the seaside and eating far, far too much. This festive season is all about excess but the January belt tightening is on it's way (oh dear) but fortunately we have the sales and the fashion weeks not too far away.

After my recent blog post you might have concluded that I would be out savouring the sales all day every day fighting over the rails and piles of so called bargains but that just hasn't been the case. I hate shopping in crowded shops, during the sale madness the clothes are scattered across the rails and floors and fellow consumers take on a more panic stricken animal attitude, either fearful eyes and a look of terror or they come out fighting, elbowing their way to the reductions. Sales can be a scene of desperation, style at times is forgotten. Some people enjoy shopping in this madness, sifting through all of the rubbish just to find that nugget of a bargain but not this consumer.

My first full day in London was spent wandering around Selfridges with EJ and the girlfriend, where last year I was fortunate enough to find some great things but this time I just wasn't in the mood. I'm sure there were some great bargains among the racks and rack of clothes but from my half hearted glances I didn't see anything, only the very fortunate or those who put in the most work succeed in arenas like the Selfridges sale. My mind was made up to vist b Store and the Shop at Blue Bird the following morning. In the interim I did venture into Liberty's and was seduced by some of the reductions, for example a Maison Martin Margiela navy suit jacket which despite the substantial price cut was still a little out of my grasp. A couple of APC items were tempting but my will power was strong enough to dissuade me buying things that I didn't really want or need.

Now onto more happier and successful tales and the wonders that were to be found within the Shop at Bluebird. Adam Green once chirped 'Bluebirds are so natural' in his song 'Bluebird' and it the shop felt very natural to me. It felt so far away from my previous shopping experience at Selfridges which left me questioning the whole sale thing. I walked out of the shop at Bluebird with a huge smile on my face, I had a bagged myself a white Givenchy shirt for £55 and a pair of wrap trousers from Unconditional for £125 but had also enjoyed myself within the shop, which is well presented and has attentive and extremely pleasant staff! There was so much to choose from, ranging from Raf Simons tapered trousers and that metallic shirt, Omar Kashoura cardigans and shirts (check out the scary myspace music) alongside rails of countless items that were great!

The sale purchases teamed up with a pair of old but quite rare converse (black with red trim).

The Unconditional trousers are unlike anything I have in my wardrobe. Wrap fly, tapered bottom, they are a play on proportions and so damn comfortable.

If you like me are dissuaded from most sales I would recommend visiting the Shop at Bluebird which was fruitful for me alongside ventures inside b Store and Concrete.

Let us know about your own success stories or nightmares with the recent sales.

Style Stalking...Ca

It has been far too long since we've lurked in the shadows to partake in one of our favourite past times, style stalking. The reason for the delay was finding a subject that could match our previous subject, Imelda Matt. After a few months of fruitless voyeurism we finally stumbled across an old favourite who has thankfully resurfaced on the blogosphere. Ca's previous blog, The Cablog, was a constant source of inspiration and it was a sad day when he decided to pause blogging. A number of months later and Ca has returned and we are pleased to declare that he lost none of his style. Ca is a man who knows how to use colour and play with textures to make truly wonderful, multi faceted outfits. He is a man who knows how to balance vintage, high street and labels in such a way that the admiring observer has absolutely no idea where he shops. We could wax lyrical about his style but that would only delay you from the real treat of the below visuals. Without further ado, here's the man himself introducing his diary...

"I suppose the series below is representative of my style. At least for winter here in Norway at the moment. I have always been more of an autumn/winter person in terms of clothes and fashion. The crisp cold weather makes it ideal to layer favourite pieces and bundle up. Some may find it challenging during the cold season to stay both warm and stylish, but I thing it's quite amusing. As long as you have the basics, especially quality woolen pieces, in place then I believe you can always look well put together...

All photos by my good friend Sirin Winge"

When the six day diary dropped in to our inbox our week was made. No doubt his style diary will brighten up your week too...

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Day One

A simple and casual outfit, this is how I typically look at home or school. I enjoy focusing on collar/lapel details and love to collect pins and brooches from flea markets and vintage shops. Such an easy way to add a bit of fun. These ones, however, are from a regular high street store. The moment I saw them this summer I completely fell and had to have them. Such a sucker for the nautical theme.

The jumper is from H&M, the shirt is from Zara and pins are from Accessorize, the trousers are by These Glory Days, the glasses are from Burberry and the shoes are by Massimo Dutti.

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Day Two

Another simple outfit for a regular day running errands around town. This jacket is one of my vintage gems which I waited almost three months before purchase. Warm and with the perfect fit, it's such a great piece to throw on while rushing out and about.

The hat is from H&M, the scarf is by Burberry, the jacket is a vintage Wrangler, the shirt is secondhand, the jeans are by Monkee Genes, the bag is secondhand as well and the shoes are by Vagabond.

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Day Three

Ok, so I study library science and work at an eyewear store. Sometimes I get carried away. So much for breaking down the stereotypical view on nerdy almost corporate way of dressing. But I like it and this is how I look most of the time. I try to believe that this soft floral shirt makes the look less "dusty". Anyway, the shirt reminds me of a watercolour painting and I got it dirt cheap at a secondhand store. Win win situation. If you're wondering, I am clinging onto the precious and latest issue of Monocle, one of the few magazines I actually buy.

The cardigan is from Brunns Bazaar, the shirt is secondhand, the trousers and bag are both from Zara while the bag is by Bertoni.

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Day Four

Me at my most dandy. I enjoy wearing bow ties, especially during festive Christmas season. The small leather bag around my neck is the latest obsession. Very practical to keep keys and wallet safe in place. And the coat is Lanvin for H&M, this year's winter coat purchase. The deep blue colour is wonderful. I like the long lean look and how the length makes it completely reasonable for me to make swooshing sounds while wearing it around.

The coat is from the Lanvin for H&M range, the jumper is from Gap, trousers are by Topman, the hat is from Dressman, the bowtie is H&M, the bag is from Monkee and the suspenders and shoes are both secondhand.

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Day Five

Beside collar decoration I have become fond of elbow details. This woolen/angora/cashmere mix jumper is warm, cosy and perfect for winter. Also, the colour scheme keeps the elbow patches subtle and barely noticeable. My infamous binocular bag is making an appearance here as well.

The coat is from Victor & Rolf for H&M, jumper by These Glory Days, as you can probably tell the shirt is from Burberry, trousers are by Velour, shoes from Zara and the bag is secondhand.

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Day Six

Another piece of outerwear I've found secondhand and altered at my seamstress. I like to switch between several coats during winter to keep things interesting. I find brown softer and easier to create less strict winter looks than classic black and grey.

In case you're wondering, the answer is no. I am not doing publicity for the label These Glory Days. At least not paid publicity that I know of. I have been following the label's design for a while and truly enjoy it's casual style, small sizes, simple details and finally the reasonable price level. This winter I went all out and got hold of several pieces from the autumn/winter collection. Whatever the hype, the Swedes know fashion. And as a Norwegian citizen I am making a patriotic statement for Scandinavian design. Yeah.

Final note: I am having breakfast (cranberry scones) while doing Christmas shopping here. Do forgive the silly expression.

The coat is secondhand, the hat and shirt are both from These Glory Days, the jeans are Monkee Genes and the shoes are from Zara.

All photos by Sirin Winge.
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Sale, Sale, Sale

Long before the presents have been unwrapped (or in my case wrapped), some days before the turkey has been reduced to a carcass and I've eaten my own body weight in roast potatoes and even some time before the family are sick of the sight of each shops up and down the high street and beyond are going into/or have gone into sale mode. The time to splurge on myself is fast approaching. I've been ever so good this December during my Christmas shopping. On previous years I buy a present for someone and then get something for myself but not this year. This could be down to maturity or maybe it was that visit from the Ghost of Christmas Past that made me see the error of my ways...anyway, whatever, I've been well behaved and the time has come for me to spend money on myself as it is sales time!

Here are a few of my picks for the sales

Selfridges
For me this is the best place to go to find bargains in the New Year. I am chomping at the bit to rummage through the rails. Last year I picked up a Preen jumper which is nothing short of a talking piece and two Unconditional items that have bolstered my wardrobe significantly (a very successful trip by all accounts). Be warned though over 3,000 people are expected to queue starting at 5am, so get there early if you are insane/desperate enough. I will wait until I return from my family Christmas and explore the treasures within this great institution on the 28th.

b Store

The b Store sale is already on...what am I doing writing this, I should be running towards Savile Row!

Browns

I've never ventured to Browns but I am told this store can be home to many bargains. If I have time and more importantly any money left I will pop in. Sale starts 26th December.

Liberty
Great discounts of up to 50 per cent on a huge range of products across the store. Expect a large selection of men’s clothes from Paul Smith, Maison Martin Margiela and co. There will also be money off beautiful homeware pieces from brands including Lladro, Kenzo and Missoni.

Topman
After years in the shadows, Topman has finally reached the dizzy heights, formally confined to sister brand Topshop. The sale could be well worth a look.


H&M
Whilst we are on the subject of the High Street why not mention this store which is a staple for many men (I personally have never had too much good fortune at any H&M but often here how great it can be). With a huge range of items all reduced by up to 50 per cent, prepare yourself for the stampede of bargain hunters over the festive break...The sale started on the 18th but I've not been brave enough to go within 50 yards of any H&M store.


Start
Stocking some of fashion’s most-wanted labels for men and women, this great Shoreditch store will be making reductions of up to 50 per cent. The sale has already started so if you are around the area at the weekend (I like going East on a Sunday) I would recommend looking at the reduced pieces like this Commes des Garcons single breasted jacket.

Concrete
This store just off Carnaby street is home to some beautiful things. On previous visits I've been known to cling on to garments that I just can't afford but hopefully this sale should rectify this problem. Sale already on

Dover Street Market
This is not normally the place to pick up bargains but it is still worth the trip, to have a wander the great space around if nothing less.
Starting December 27

I could go on and on but I won't. For a more extensive list than what I have here visit Urban Junkies who have an excellent guide. I am resigned to the fact that both my bank card and my body will be exhausted come the beginning of January. My month of January will go down in memory as the one where I had to survive off Iceland meals and Baked Beans but all my planned bargainous consumerism will certainly be worth the consequences. Happy shopping everyone.

Topman lens focuses on Australian designers

I am quite late in reporting this bit of news, mainstream magazine wrote about this last Friday but I wanted to say a few more words on the subject. Elliot focused his attention on Material Boy but I am more excited about seeing Mjolk's designs.

Mjolk:

Directional designers Lars Stoten, Danmarks DesignSkole graduate, and ex-Central St Martins College of Art and Design, John Clarke, combine to design and produce Mjolk. Founded in southern Sweden in 2003 and transplanted to Australia, the label dares Australian men and women to take a risk with their dressing.

I love the red shoes against the grey suit. I am not too sure what my office would say if I walked into work wearing shoes that red but then again I don't think I care...

Refreshing and fun, yet still dedicated to attention to quality construction, detailing and fabrics. Mjolk is known for its masterfully crafted men’s suiting, with slim silhouettes and rock and roll edge in bright colours like purple, yellow, apple green and fireengine red. They also produce beautifully finished stovepipe indigo jeans, skinny fit blazers and primary coloured striped shirting and tees.

Material Boy:

Mic Eaton, an ex-pro surfer, launched the label in 2003 in Perth but now divides his time between Melbourne and Indonesia. This label pushes menswear out of its comfort zone and those inside and outside the fashion industry continue to admire the label’s originality. Their breakout season in AW06 - ‘Honey I shrunk the Boy’ was where the now famous exaggerated silhouettes and bold colours first grabbed the attention of the Australian fashion scene. Their next s/s collection is titled 'Celebration of your inner gay'.

I am always excited by new Lens collections (it is such a great idea!) and the next one should not disappoint. I will ensure that I allocate some of my clothes budget to the release of the next batch of Lens.

DIY - Cardigan Reborn

EJ certainly raised the bar with her wonderfully executed and amusing Tache Gloves (these would make a great, inexpensive Christmas Gift). For my DIY Project I wanted to create a double layered cardigan because I have been crazing one ever since I saw them strut down the LS Lowry inspired Burberry AW 08 runway but could not find a more affordable version anywhere. The colour palette that Bailey used in that show made me want to rush out and play in imaginery piles of crispy red and brown leaves...and I wanted to achieve something similar. Then I remembered about my well worn Reiss cardigan which was lying somewhat unloved at the bottom of one of my drawers. Susie actually featured this cardigan on her blog long before we started going out and it was the first time that I took notice of style and fashion blog...more importantly it was the first real opportunity for me to speak to her at work (for those of who don't know we used to work at the same office) and of course great things have later blossomed. Therefore, this Reiss cardigan deserved a much better life than the one it had found itself in. So under the guise of the Men Represent DIY Challenge, I just had to breathe fresh life into this special piece of knitwear.

What you will need...

- Two cardigans, preferably battered and old. I actually decided to treat myself to an extra fine Merino Wool Cardigan from Uniqlo in a complimentary shade because my deep aubergine Reiss Cardigan deserved a fine companion.
- Needle & thread
- Pins
- A steady hand and patience...neither of which I have!

What I did...

1) It seemed that the bottom drawer had not been too kind on the Reiss Cardigan and a repair job was needed on a few rips, tears and loose buttons, so out came the needle and thread to make some fat fingered amends.


2) Following the repair job, I carefully cut along the seams of the sleeves to create a sweater vest out of the Uniqlo cardigan. To maximise my thrifty-ness I kept hold of the sleeves because these could quickly be turned into arm warmers.

3) I've really never seen the appeal of sweater vests so continued to cut until all I was left with were the two front panels.

4) Now came the fun part. The joining of the two. I overlapped each panel and played around with it until I was happy with the appearance of the overlap (two inches at the bottom, thinning out to the top) and pinned the garments in place. All that was left now was to sew where the two seams met and the cardigans were now entwined.

Apologies for the brightness in this shot. I will post styled pictures of the cardigans later today...

I'm ashamed to say that this was the first time that I've held a needle and thread since Primary School (we took basic textiles classes in Year Four) and my technique certainly improved as the morning developed. Now that I have awoken my crafty side, I have taken the needle and thread to add leather buttons to my Angels find. Over the course of a few hours, I had breathed fresh life into two garments and hopefully this inspires you to at least think about doing the same.

The package which saved winter

The package from Daphne has saved me from the cold!

Over the course of the last month or so I have wasted a great many hours wandering the desperate stores on the High Street (30% Off Sales Signs have become a regular feature) in the hope of finding an assortment of accessories which will keep me warm this winter. Last year Topman gave me my black ribbed arm warmers (I don't think I took them off between Christmas and the end of February) and a few other bits but this year this usually reliable source just didn't offer good quality, chunky knitted goods and neither did the others. My feet were tired and my eyes ached from the ridiculously brightly lit stores and just when I could not take any more punishment up stepped etsy seller, dlittlegarden to fill the gap in the market! Whilst I was bemoaning the lack of options on the High Street, the lovely Daphne (who as well as knits has a great blog) has been busy working on the men's knitted pieces for her etsy store and was kind enough to send a few of the items across for me to try out and model. The items she sent me were the...

"Brawl on Bowery" mitts - these are chunky knit fingerless gloves and exactly what I've been looking for over the last month. My fringers hands can now be nice and toasty!
"Christopher Street" Cowl - this is the first time that I've ever worn a cowl and I Love it. This chunky knit ribbed cowl scarf is dressed with brown leather buttons and is my favourite piece because it is so unexpected.
"Triangle Below Canal" Cap -I've recently described how I'd like more men to wear hats and in weather like this a chunky knit cable cap like this is the only answer.

My essentials to combat the cold - Knitted accessories by dlittlegarden worn with long sleeve Heatech tshirt by Uniqlo.

All of her hand knits are made out of a soft, squishy, pure wool/alpaca blend yarn that feels great against the skin and works perfectly to combat the cold. I have had great fun wearing these pieces over the course of the last week and below are my two favourite looks...

Don't be fooled by the bright sunshine. It was damn cold...not that I felt it!

The Angels Sale find was given a new lease of life by teaming it up with dlittlegarden's accesories and a HeatTech t shrit by Uniqlo. I am really enjoying mixing different shades of grey at the moment and think that it works perfectly for a winter warming look. The outfit was finished off with a Tokyo print pocket square by Muji and a Tote bought from Hurwendeki.

My second favourite look involves the current favourite items in my possession. A large purple checked pea coat from Uniqlo (I managed to find the only small in all of London!) and dlittlegarden's "Christopher Street" Cowl. If I could wear these items all day everyday I would be a happy man indeed.

The winter saving package arrived last week and it certainly made my day...in fact it made my week because I'm not sure that I could have coped with the recent cold London weather if it wasn't for her beautiful, knitted creations. From my experience, there is definitely a gap in the market for good quality, well priced knitted accessories and even though the High Street has proved fruitless for me this season, there is rich pickings on etsy thanks to crafty folk like dlittlegarden.

The Style Salvage Advent Calender

Can you believe that we have entered into the busy month of December...where has the year gone? As we have now awoken to the month of giving we wanted to mark the occassion by giving something back to you and what better (and tacky) way than to give each and everyone one of you an advent calender!? Instead of opening up those little jagged edged flaps each day to uncover a piece of stale chocolate-like-substance shaped into something vaguely reminiscent of a reindeer or a christmas tree, we will offer something alot more useful and tasty to you, our esteemed reader. Our aim is to warm you up on these cold December mornings. First up, uncovering box number one...

Under box number one is an image of a Uniqlo branded vending machine...which signifies the UK launch of Uniqlo Heattech. Apparently, one in three people in Japan own a Heat tech garment...so it is certainly a staple over there and the Japanese know a fair deal about practical, good quality clothing so we should certainly take notice! After braving a very busy and slightly depressing (due to the sorry excuse for Christmas lights and the air of desperation exuding the shop fronts) Oxford Street and venturing into the Uniqlo flagship store, it is easy to see why it is so popular. As the mercury falls it is time to layer and these surprisingly sheer garments provide a solid base to create efficient layered style. I'm not one to be fooled by pseudo science (typified by TV advertisements within the hair and beauty industry making up words to confuse and bewilder one and all) but whatever you make of Uniqlo's claims (apparently the fabric absorbs moisture and converts it into heat, whilst with an exciting mix of milk proteins ensures a snug fit) I can assure you that I am wearing pieces of the line now and I am quite toasty. and the fit is indeed snug. As always with Uniqlo, the pieces come in a rainbow of colours. Step aside American Apparel, in 2009 I predict that Uniqlo will completely conquer the retail lansdcape.

A.P.C. oh when will you open a store in the UK?

Paris label APC has dedicated fans the world over..I am becoming one of them (it wouldn't be accurate of me to describe myself as a dedicated fan yet because I've only flirted with buying a number of items) but it seems to have found its natural home in Japan, where shoppers lap up the brand's sharply functional style. Along with Katayama (the Tokyo store designer) APC have revamped their store in Daikanyama (which has been open since 1992) creating a much fresher homme store. Reading this news has made me question whether or not APC are ever going to open up such a store in London...they even have a store in the Philippines but not in the UK! Oh well at least they are stocked here and Paris is even closer with the new Kings Cross link! I do find the prices a little steep (the reason that I've not bought anything as yet) but I am getting over this the more I see the clothes up close. Before I was fooled by the seemingly similarity between the offerings of H&M which is always extremely reasonable (cheap) in the price stakes and those of APC which cost so much more but (on the whole) deservedly so.

This post also gives me the excuse to show images from the recent Winter catalogue featuring the effortless chic of stylists Camille Bidault Waddington and Christopher Niquet.

I adore this shot of Bidault and Niquet!

I really like the autumnal colour tones here.

Current APC favourite are the Plaid bag (as shown on The Staple), cotton checked shirts, their denim of course and the blazer shown in last Sunday's observer magazine (which I lost so cannot show you, please accept my sincerest apologies!) I will leave you with images of their famous jeans and that bag.

The Comme des Garcons x H&M Drop Crotch Trouser Challenge

So I didn't quite make it to launch day of the Comme des Garcons x H&M collaboration but by a number accounts it was not as crazy as we all thought that it might be (in the UK anyway - I'm not aware of any polka dot scarf fights) - some of you have even told us that in places the launch was extremely low key. If you have been (un)lucky (delete as appropriate) enough to snap up any of the collection, please let us know what you think of it? One of the reasons that I stayed away was my fear for the quality of the pieces and this fear seems to have been confirmed to me by comments of a number of blogs - wool on jackets wearing thin just after a day of use, buttons falling off etc. Are the accusations of poor quality grossly exaggerated? Aside from the quality issue, the other reason that I didn't venture down was sheer laziness, Susie left me at ridiculously early o'clock to cover the launch (footage of which can be seen here). Susie did pick up a pair of extreme drop crotch wool trousers for the very reasonable price of £35 (I was impressed by the quality of the finish). On her post about her new purchase Susie challenged her male readers to send in pics of themselves wearing the same trousers after seeing a number of guys snatching them off the rails. Therefore, when she wasn't looking I tried the exact same pair on...squeezing myself into them with a degree of difficulty....

The outift - Cardigan by Carola Euler (Stills Collection), white t shirt by Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons x H&M drop crotch trousers, shiny black boots by Lanvin.

The trousers gave me an opportunity to try out one of my recent purchases...the Carola Euler cardigan and it works perfectly here. As you can see I decided to style the trousers by turning myself into the offspring of a Samurai and Obi-Wan Kenobi...I just wish I had a lightsabre. I'm not sure that I would actually wear these out...they are a little tight in the calf for my liking (I need a 12 - curse my muscular calves) but I enjoyed wearing them for this post regardless.

Were you one of those guys pilfering the womenswear rails? Please let us know if you were and send us your pics!

Topman reveals my insanity

Dearest EJ

Sorry I've been quiet this week but I've been feeling a little under the weather.

I tagged along to the Spring Summer 2009 Arcadia Collections and it was nice to catch a glimpse into the world of next season. Even though I love this time of year a part of me cries out for the sunshine. It feels like a lifetime ago when I saw the MAN show in a Car Park in Soho and to be honest with you I couldn't recall the Topman Design collection aside from the neon outfits complete with matching backpacks. After seeing the garments up close this week I came away wanting a number of items but the highlight for me was...

...a navy soft leather, zip up shirt. It takes a lot to type these words but my brain is screaming out, why, what and why agin and again. I like a zip up, leather shirt. Either my tastes are changing or I have been taking crazy pills. Other highlights include Topman's version of the classic desert boot and those colourful backpacks.

Steve

Hola!

I think you've been taking the crazy pills. Short sleeved and leather? So the tops of your arms can be terribly sweaty while your forearms stay cool? Perhaps it looks nicer in person, but in that picture... no. The colourful backpacks are alright, especially the blue one, so long as they're not going to try charging 80 quid for them. The desert boots just aren't as nice as the Clarks ones. If they're significantly cheaper they might be an acceptable substitute, but they're just not cutting it for me at the moment.

Wow, this is a very disagreeable saturday morning for me so far!

EJ

Collaborating with Harris Tweed

Following on from lengthy visual love letter to Harris Tweed I wanted to ponder the future of the Champagne of fabrics. For me, the second collaboration with Nike merely scratches the surface of possibilities for this fabric. Having well and truly fallen for this special textile I began to ask myself what more could be done to continue its revival. I asked this very question to the director of the BBC4 series Tweed, Ian Denver, last year. His response still rings true...

Interestingly, this season sees another intriguing collaboration with the iconic 'Orb'. Harris Tweed Hebrides, the Shawbost-based company who I visited earlier this week have recently welcomed a major collaboration with high street powerhouse, Topman. The award winning company have been working closely with Topman's design team over the past year or so to create a stunning new men’s range, which extends from gloves and bow-ties to coats, trousers and jackets. The choice of tweed and the cut on the designs are exquisite and will no doubt attract a new audience. The fact that Topman are promoting the range on their US web-site as well as the UK one is great news for the fabric.

Collaboration will undoubtedly play its part in the continued revival of Harris Tweed. This season also sees Fred Perry, The North Face Purple Label and Norse Projects use the fabric in their collections. Now that you've seen exactly what makes Harris Tweed so very special, how would you like to see it used in the future? I'd like to see everyone from ASOS to Nigel Cabourn and Bill Amberg to Lou Dalton experiment with it. Which high street brands and designers would you like to see elevate this fabric further?

A flirtatious glimspe at Spring

I have to admit that during this lazy weekend I have been thinking about next seasons aesthetic, which will completely confuse me (I'll end up wearing a light blue jacket over a white t shirt, paired with thin grey trousers and polar blue shoes tomorrow and freeze to death walking up to the tube station!) but I just wanted to re-examine some of the s/s 08 shows and to seek inspiration for the future. As discussed on Male Mode, winter is upon us and I (as he does) need to buy a winter coat, or atleast supplement my current wardrobe with clothes that can offer me more warmth but I've gone one foot in s/s/ 08 already. The early bird catches..and all that. One of my favourite shows was Jil Sander. It was Simons' fourth presentation for the label. Simons himself referred to it as “phosphor,” where color was pared away until all that remained was a hint of eau de nil or gray or blue to shade his spare three-button suits.

The collections underlying theme was light. It gave both a sense of weightless-ness and a glow akin to that of the arctic. Simons achieved it by layering translucent nylon jackets over shirts, or using leather so fine it might have been paper for T-shirts, shorts, and suits.

A high street store with a similarly clean and light look is COS, who I have to blog about soon so won't go into too much detail. Of course the tailoring and detail will not be up to Simons standards but I have been impressed by this store. It offers a real challenge to the other high street stores out there and that can only be a good thing in my opinion.

I've also been thinking about Christmas presents, for myself, no one else (HA!) and have stumbled across Raf Simons Redux. Santa if you are reading this I would like this book please because I know an actual piece of Raf Simons' work would be too much to ask from you. Thank you.

Weekend Therapy Part 1

It has been a lazy weekend for me but a fulfilling one. After cooking EJ steak and chips (oven baked as opposed to deep fried, which is a first but they were lovely) on Friday night I went to Dover Street Market on Saturday. I was meant to be going to the V&A to see The Golden Age of Couture Exhibition but it is still too popular and the tickets were sold out. In a way this was a good thing because it allowed me more time to peruse and marvel at the various floors inside arguably the best retail experience in the UK. Dover Street market won the ‘best shop’ award appointed by the British Fashion Council in 2006, Next time you are in London it is definitely worth a visit. In the meantime you can get a taster on their online site.

“I want to create a kind of market where various creators from various fields gather together and encounter each other in an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos; the mixing up and coming together of different kindred souls who all share a strong personal vision”
Rei Kawakubo

Aside from having the greatest selection of Comme Des Garçons and of Kawakubo’s protégé Junya Watanabe, the store also features designer collections from Lanvin, Margiella, Raf Simons...the list goes on. All in all this multilevel store houses most of the designers that i love. It allows me to examine the exquisite pieces, for example the Raf Simons tailoring and use of unusual fabrics in hit suits and the perfectly stitched leather of Pierre Hardy shoes.

The biggest hit for me was the third floor which contains the Alber Elbaz designed Lanvin space and some quite beautiful Pierre Hardy shoes. I've already mentioned about my love for Pierre hardy footwear so I won't go into too much details again but I did some quite breathtaking black zip up boots. I just wish i had my camera to show you my favourite pieces. Oh well, you are just going to have to go for yourself. Now it is time for me to resume my lazy weekend. The Sunday Times is calling me which I will read whilst munching on a cinnamon and raisin bagel topped with peanut butter and gulping down some lady grey tea. Oh the good life.

Dover Street Market is located at 17-18 Dover Street London W1S 4LT, for further information and to purchase selected products, visit www.doverstreetmarket.com.

Style Salvage (Steve) Needs You

Is the queuing worth it? I don't think so...but maybe you do!?

Judging by previous high street and designer collaboration launches, not to mention the above pictures from the Tokyo launch, the queue for the much talked about Comme des Garcon collection for H&M will be knee tremblingly long along Oxford Street on November 13th. What frightens me more is that the fight to the best items will be a hard one...the chances of an elbow to the face or a kick to the shin will be extremely high (there will be some die hard, blood thirsty collectors amongst the hungry hoards). This is where I need one plucky volunteer. If you haven't noticed already, I am quite a lazy individual and as I'm being honest with you all, somewhat indifferent to the Comme des Garcon collection for H&M (that said, I would still like to get my hands on a few of the pieces (namely the polka dot items).

So I am looking for plucky volunteers who are eager to stand in line for me. To save time, I've started an imaginary conversation with you...

Me: Who would like to stand in line for me?

You: What's in it for me? I mean the wait will be long and knowing London it will certainly be raining...

Me: You want a reward other than my admiration and appreciation?

You: Um...Yes...

Me: OK...how about a Kinder Egg?

The ball, or rather the Kinder Egg is in your court. Upon reading this post EJ has suggested two smarter options but I find them just too sneaky but for those interest in the cunning workings of her mind, they were:

1) call H&M and see where else (other than the flagship store) the collection will be available and therefore bypass the crowds

2) Use Susie's power and influence to see if she can locate the polka dot pieces for me without going near a physical store.

The craft of Moon

As mentioned just over a week ago, this season sees sees John Lewis unveil its fourth yet first full scale exclusive collection designed by the great Joe Casely-Hayford. Recognised for his innovation and ability to produce definitive future classics, Casely-Hayford's range celebrates the best of British sartorialism through a series of unique collaborations with some of the UK's leading heritage companies. For AWll, Casely-Hayford continues to build on the strong foundations laid in the three previous capsule collections. Having established a strong following through exclusive collaborations with some of the UK’s finest heritage manufacturers. From key seasonal outerwear created out of fabric woven in England by the Abraham Moon Mills in Yorkshire to a great Fair Isle pattern Yoke pullover that is knitted in 100% Wool by crafts people in the Donegal Mountains and shirting showcasing one of the first ever Liberty prints to be digitally created, the collaboration celebrates all that these islands have to offer. Through this series of collaborations with specialists and true craftsman, the range showcases unique cloths whilst reintroducing a few updated British classics to the wider audience of the high street. During my excited ramblings I mentioned the fact that I was invited to watch the Moons craftsmen at work at their Guiseley factory. I eagerly followed and snapped away at each well honed and practiced process from start to finish. 

Before I offer an abundance of 'factory porn' and talk you through the processes of what makes Moon fabric so special I have to acquaint you with the brand and give you a little background. The name might not feel that familiar on first reading but I'm quite sure that you've seen or indeed worn their work without even knowing it. In addition to apparel, its textiles are used for growing accessories and furnishings arms. Abraham Moon and Sons is a family owned company that assures luxurious quality whilst continuously evolving to meet the ever changing needs of the industry. The current Managing Director is John Walsh, the fourth generation of the family which succeeded the Moon dynasty. Since 1837 when Abraham Moon founded the company, bales of raw wool have been arriving at their factory to begin the process of creating beautiful fabrics. Located in Yorkshire, traditional home of the English cloth mills, the company is unique in being a fully vertical mill, with dyeing, blending, carding, spinning, weaving and finishing processes all taking place on one site. State of the art manufacturing allied to a highly skilled workforce enable a wide diversity of fabrics to be manufactured at competitive price levels – a prerequisite to success in today’s market place. The craftsmanship and well honed skills are essential to the product and it was a pleasure to be able to watch it all unfold in a space that has seen the same processes come together for over two centuries. It is little wonder why Casely-Hayford partnered with them.

As a self confessed factory pervert, you can only imagine how many photographs I took as I was guided through the nooks and crannies of this well oiled assembly line of craftsmanship. I have managed to hone them down and will now use them to guide you through the main processes to turn fleece in to stunning fabric.

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From fleece to fabric

The first stage begins with the delivery of the finest raw wool which is from sought across the globe and delivered to their site in Guiseley. The merino lambswool is predominantly from South Africa and the Shetland quality pure new wool is from New Zealand. The raw wool then goes to the dye house, to be dyed using precise combinations and a secret cocktail of dye, pressure, temperature and time. They can currently dye their wool in over five hundred different shades and colours. Within the Dye House they keep a library of shade standards and recipes to ensure continuity of each glorious colour year and year.

Huge bundles of tightly packed fur are delivered to Guiseley.

I was infatuated with the texture of the fleece as I watched the men unpack it before on embarking on the dyeing process.

Part of me wanted to throw myself in to the dyeing cauldrons.

Just one of the hues that caught my eye,

Now, the real secret to creating beautifully rich colour is in the blend. During this stage up to seven different coloured wools can be used in the recipe for each yarn. It is this process that gives tweeds, heathers and plaids their wonderfully unique and rich texture. Moons prides itself on its arsenal of hues and I was dazzled by the spectrum on offer...

Once dyed it is transferred in to the blending rooms by this giant vacuum.

The blending process is particularly beautiful

Once blended, the mix is then transferred to the carding area.

The next process, carding is essential in producing soft, smooth fabrics. The blended wool lubricated with a little water and oil is run through a series of combed rollers that tease the fibres one way and then the other. Whilst providing alignment and conformity, the process also rids the wool of any last impurities and ensures the finished fabrics are smooth and soft to the touch.

A close up of the blended wool before it is passed through the carding rollers...

The carding machine

A close up of the candy floss like excess.

The carding process in action.

A sea of rollers teasing the fibres each and every way.

The rich web of coloured wool is then spun in to a huge range of dazzling yarns. Their six frames draw out the wool and put a precise number of twists per inch in to the wool, resulting in a fine but ultimately strong thread ideal for fabrics used in clothing and furnishings alike. The yarn is then wound on to cones going through a check to ensure continuity. Any faults are cut out of the thread and the ends are thermally joined together to produce a yarn that will weave in to smooth fabrics. The cones, holding up to sixteen thousand metres of yarn are then ready to be sent to warping and weaving.

The intricate movement of the yarn as it is fed from one machine to another is quite breathtaking.

The wool begins to take on a more familiar appearance.

The cones of yarn are then wound over a swift and a warp is made for weaving. This can be a complicated process depending upon the intricacy of the pattern in the finished fabric. I was treated to a to a variety during my time in the mill. Precise lengths of different coloured yarn can be required in a single vertical thread and up to two thousand threads may be required for a width of fabric. Mind blowing. These have to all be held in exact order to ensure accurate and uniform patterns and designs. The warping process is one of the most beautiful...

Feeding the yarn over the drum or swift.

The precise lengths of different yarn are fed on to the drum.

A spiderweb of yarn.

A close up of the warping process.

Exacting standards.

Warped fabric ready to be weaved.

The weaving process is the loudest and is where the real magic happens. The space is filled with a percussion of machinery. The work here might be less hands on than it once would’ve been but it is no less impressive and bewildering to the eye. It is here where many different yarns are woven together in intricate weaves to create stunning fabrics. The mill uses Rapier looms, to take the weft (horizontal thread) across the warp threads and they are capable of weaving up to thirty thousand metres of cloth per week. The machines work at a dizzying pace and volume but the below shots document the process in a much more peaceful light...

An array of fabrics were being weaved during my time in the mill.

Now, we are almost there. Newly woven fabric is then scoured, milled and dried. The oils that were used to aid manufacture of the fabric are removed. This is when the wonderful and luxurious feel of these fabrics begins to become apparent. The final step sees each length of fabric finished by careful pressing, using steam and specialised equipment to remove any shrinkage and complete the process of creating remarkable fabrics.

A selection of heritage fabrics on display.

As I walked through and looked on at each process of construction, the balance between old but proven techniques and machinery from various eras since the industrial revolution, really left a lasting impression on me. Quality begins on the sheep farms, the water used in the mill and Moons' honed processes from dye house to finishing. Each inch of fabric is inspected at the three main stages of the manufacturing process, when it comes off the loom, after finishing and again before it leaves the factory. With Moon you can be sure that you get nothing less than quality wool. I'll leave you a few close up shots of the finished lambswool fabrics used in the collaboration...

Moon is a company that continues to learn and strive for the highest quality. It was a real pleasure to watch them work and after spending a few hours there, it is obvious why Joe Casely-Hayford and John Lewis chose to work with them once again for this project. Next year Moon celebrates its one hundred and seventy fifth birthday, here's hoping to many more successful years of great British fabric production.