British menswear in 2010 and beyond

Now, I had started to embark on an epic review post and spent a few hours revising bookmarks and admiring saved images. I began reminiscing over the colour rich Jil Sander SS111 show which was held in the elaborate garden of a spectacular villa in the far hilly reaches of Florence, the dazzling lazer display at the culmination of JW Anderson's SS11 show, experiencing the making of Harris Tweed in the Outer Hebrides and my numerous retail discoveries throughout the year. The last twelve months have been fruitful and have seen us enthuse, reveal and discuss a myriad of menswear subjects over the course of three hundred and eight posts. However, having seen the gluttony of 'Best of' lists clogging the arteries of the blogosphere, I have decided to take a different stance. Yes, 2010 has been a good year but how can we make 2011 a great year?

Having given the subject more thought than any of the other aforementioned volume of posts, I decided to look at the state of British menswear. Menswear Day during London Fashion Week has certainly  continued to grow over the course of two schedule packed days in 2010. Presentations, catwalk shows and film screenings have all celebrated the exciting diversity of menswear design talent which uniquely exists in this capital of ours. It has been hugely exciting to see stalwarts of Savile Row sit so comfortably alongside high street regulars, established designers and enthralling new talent alike. Both  days helped cause a sartorial stir or two whilst collectively flying the flag of menswear and tiring me out in the process. Dense, exciting schedules and flag waving aside, I have found myself with more questions than answers when I come to give British menswear design the once over. Have these ever evolving moments really pushed British menswear design forward as far as they can? Is Menswear Day enough? Are retailers really supporting the talent? Can the design talent that I celebrate forge viable and successful businesses? Are we, as consumers, doing enough?

In moments of questioning, it is always helpful to turn to a different voice.  As I have enjoyed so many discussions with menswear retailer Daniel Jenkins this year, it was fitting to hear his thoughts on the subject... 

____________

"What is the point of British menswear? Now I must confess to being redhanded and place my cards upon the table. Anyone who receives a Christmas or birthday present from me is accepting ill gotten gains funded by British fashion.

Confession aside I have no interest in using this article to promote the labels that we already sell and those that we will sell in the future. I believe in what we buy and therefore if it doesn't sell I take full responsibility. This leads into my main point, Steve mentioned the end of year review to me a few months ago. I'll admit I was slightly wrapped up in finding the best flat white in London (Woman in Present if you are interested always go for the 6oz). Dalston cliche aside it made me think. So much so I had a rant which I have managed to slightly temper. Two days later I was fortunate to be invited to take an economist around the Whitechapel Gallery with the aim of ignoring the art and discussing the future of British fashion. The question was should British fashion be 'saved' or not. I spent two hours arguing for its survival then received a text message about something far more important and realised the charade was up. Perhaps it shouldn't be 'saved'. 'Saving' as it currently stands could in fact damage it further.

I see it like this. I understand that many within the industry disagree with me and think me a fool for expressing my views however, I simply cannot go on any longer labouring under the pretence that this situation is adequate, normal or acceptable. Despite this year having spent more time with my head in books than look books trying to figure life out, I have seen enough to realise that in terms of sheer design the industry in the UK is in rude health. I don't care who you are or what you do I simply cannot understand any argument claiming that there is better design talent outside of the United Kingdom. Yesterday, Steve and Eliza ran a feature on Joe Casley Hayford, a sublime talent who along with Charlie is changing how the world dresses. This is what we do in the UK. We set the parameters. Yet the press discussion about the best labels, the most exciting stores, the items that men truly would sell their girlfriend for always includes items predominately from outside of this sceptred isle. Why is this? The power of paid for advertising or a deeper and more dangerous issue? We are in real danger of losing a lot of talent which if given a little bit more of a push could really achieve something.

We have a dedicated 'Menswear' day at London fashion week. This I applaud for its intention and execution - this year it was highly professional, but it isn't enough. I'm bored with the conversation that the menswear industry in the UK will simply never be profitable enough. This is sheer nonsense perpetuated by those unwilling to take a risk. We need to ask ourselves why isn't it working. Why are labels having trouble cementing themselves? Each time I read an article about how rosy British menswear is I'm reminded of John Le Carre's words in 1963 'men condemned to death are subject to sudden moments of elation; as if, like moths in the fire, their destruction were coincidental with attainment'.

Please don't confuse me with someone wishing to do damage to the industry. Yes my suit may be painted black and I might admire and enjoy  Auden's poetry noir whilst taking a wistful glance through memories but, I just want to give those with talent in this country a fair and level playing field. If they fail then so be it. They would always have done so. To deny them the opportunity to succeed or fail because they aren't immediately commercially viable is criminal. I understand the financial implications better than most. We are funded solely by sales. If we do not sell we cannot continue operating. I believe that we have a duty to promote those that perhaps would not be given the chance elsewhere. Yes we profit from it, I run a business and I attempt daily to challenge Tony Wilson's mantra regarding history and money  - failing probably on both counts - because someone once took a chance on Ralph Lauren, Alexander McQueen and anyone you could care to mention. Yes, these were business decisions but they were also seven inch leap's from heart to head.

There are those making a difference and there are solutions which have been proffered from greater communication between independent stores and the BFC, increased presence at Paris fashion week - London falls outside of the majority of foreign buyers' schedule each season. An understanding that talent in this country does occasionally need guidance in making sure that they aren't let down by manufacturers, stores and other parts of the 'fashion chain'. If these steps were undertaken I'd be part way to happiness and if the BFC or anyone with ideas regarding how we can turn 2011 into a watershed, wishes to contact me then I'm ready, daniel@danieljenkins.co.uk"

____________

I don't know about you but I found myself nodding quite a bit throughout this rant. More, on a number of different levels, can be done. For me, one of the real positives of the year has seen the real gems of British menswear take important steps towards Paris. The LONDON ShowROOMS have been successfully running for five seasons now but SS11 saw it extend to include some of the best emerging menswear talent in the UK. The scheme, a joint collaboration by the British Fashion Council, Fashion East and The Centre for Fashion Enterprise took fourteen designers to show in Paris. The likes of Bernstock Speirs, Blaak, BOYOstudio, Carolyn Massey, Christopher Kane Men's, Christopher Raeburn, Miharayasuhiro + Husam el Odeh eyewear, James Long, Katie Eary, KTZ, Lou Dalton, Omar Kashoura and Tim Soar were all present. Their designs showcased at a time in line with the real buying season. Regardless of talent, in order to survive, our favourite designers require sales and even though Menswear Day is wonderful theatre, I'd love to see the very best of our talent continue to charm the world. Here's to British menswear design talent winning over buyers and consumers in the same way that it has won critical plaudits in recent seasons.

Inspired... Lou Dalton AW13

Since launching her own line in 2005, Lou Dalton has refined a well crafted reputation for rebellious English sportswear with a keen eye for and attention to detail whilst establishing herself as the real shining starlet of British Menswear. As London menswear has demanded an ever increasing presence at LFW and respect far beyond the perimeter of the capital, evolving from an afternoon in to three full days of shows, presentations, previews, installations and exhibitions under the umbrella of London Collections: Men, Dalton has matured in the spotlight, built a brand and helped pave the way forward. 

One week today, all eyes will be on the blossoming design talent once more as she opens the sophomore edition of London Collections: Men. Having had a sneak preview of the collection which includes an exciting shoe collaboration, tactile knitwear and soft tailoring to obsess over and further evolved signatures,  I'm certain she will take more confident and assured steps forward, beckoning the rest of London menswear to do the same. As a little teaser to what Dalton will unveil in seven days, we sit down with the designer to talk through the narrative and influences behind the season. Sitting in her East London studio I was quickly transported six hundred odd miles to the coastlines of Shetland as the designer excitedly talked me through her mood board. Escape with us...

"This season I returned to one of my favourite films, Local Hero. I had watched it a while back but shortly after showing Spring/Summer 2013, my partner Justin was away and I rummaged through all of my old DVDs and found it again along with Ryan's Daughter. I have referenced Ryan Daughter to a small extent, there's just one scene from the film where the freedom fighters are on the beaches pulling in the illegal arms and they're wearing these oil skins in the pouring rain and I was drawn to the scene's rawness and how dark it was, in particular the Irish terrain and the backdrop that it is set against. The small village that the film is set shares characteristics to that of Shetland as captured in Bill Forsyth's feature. For me, Local Hero is one of the best films that I've ever seen, set in a place that I have such fond personal memories of. I met Justin in Shetland over nine years ago and I spent three years commuting back and forth from the area during the early years of our relationship. It it is quite simply one of the most amazing places that I've been to. I think Laurence Ellis' film (that he shot for my autumn/winter 2010 collection) captures the essence of how Shetland is, it's this open, amazing, wild place but it is so warm and welcoming. I absolutely loved spending time there and I have this crazy dream of owning a croft at some point. It will always be an inspiring place to me.

When I watched Local Hero again with Burt Lancaster playing a Texan oil worker who goes out to this rural town in the Scottish highlands with the desire to build a whopping big oil rig but soon falls in love with the special place. Theoretically, that's what happened to Shetland. At one point, it was the biggest oil port in Europe. I latched on to this development in a sense but it had much more to do with the characters, the terrain, the rawness and everything about the area. I loved everything about the film and it reminded me about my own experiences. I started pulling references from there, from utility and work wear after looking at the boy on the rig, the city boy in the country feel influenced the tailoring and there's a particular fabric that we've pulled from an Italian mill that reminds me of the flock and rawness of the sheep whilst the knitwear takes inspiration from the identification markings on the sheep which has this form of branding. 

I know that when I talk about being inspired by Shetland, people will think "oh, this is Lou being right country, a heritage feel' and there might be an element of that but once you see the collection, you'll see that there's much more to it than that. This particular collection feels even more personal whilst the fit and shapes are very much from spring/summer. I want the guy that is buying Lou Dalton to feel confident and trust in the continuation from season to season..."

Snapshots of Lou Dalton's mood board for AW13.

"I do feel the pressure of showing first (at London Collections: Men). Everyone has been so supportive and I never do anything half heartedly. This collection means an awful lot and there's shedloads of work still to do. I won't settle until it is all done, to the level that I want it to be at. I said it to Charlie Porter previously but if I could get the label the point of being a self financed menswear designer from the UK that can compete with those big boys then that would be a massive achievement. It's unchartered territory. I think the label is at the point at which it could soar to the next level or stagnate and I desperately want it to fly on. I feel as though I've pushed myself harder than ever for this collection and we've also been pushing at the same time with production of Spring/Summer 13 which was the largest that it has ever been. It'll be quite special if I pull everything off."

I have every confidence that she will. Long may London menswear follow the lead of Lou Dalton. Here's to London Collections: Men and beyond.

Cashing in this Christmas

Since our first shared Tokyo experience back in May, Susie has popped back over too many times to mention. For the most part, I've looked on with green eyes and jealous heart as she rattles off tales of discovery but when she recently returned I was treated to an early Christmas present that kept me warm this festive season whilst putting a smile on my face and introducing me to my new favourite label, Cash Ca.

Whilst designing and consulting for the likes of John Smedley and Margaret Howell, knitwear specialist Craig Alexander started Cash Ca in 1999. Over the last twelve years, the label's refined cashmere and high quality merino knitwear collection has made a significant impact on the British market. However, for us atleast, the story took an interesting turn following a chance meeting between Alexander and influential Japanese streetwear designer Kazuki Kurashi in 2009 who was soon asked to direct the men's collection. Kurashi's clean aesthetic inspired a new phase of the label. The design marriage of Alexander and Kurashi is all about simple perfection and minimal embellishment but also lovely subtle, hidden detailing. This union caught Susie's eye in Shibuya's Garden, Located moments from where we first stayed and just opposite the Ragtag that bled my bank account dry, menswear store Garden escaped our shared attention. However, on Susie's most recent jaunt she waltzed inside and soon encountered my (current) dream wardrobe. Alongside Facetasm and Eo To To, she found herself grasping at the rails of Cash Ca and feeling the urge to splurge. The heady mix of details and the favoured mix of seasonal fabrics of wool, cotton and leather in the Donkey Stadium jacket meant that it was love at first sight for her and for me (oh she knows me so well!)...

Cash Ca Donkey Stadium Jacket worn with two of my own Japanese buys (a green shirt by Comme des Garcons Homme and fair isle print jumper by Discovered) trousers by Wooyoungmi and hi tops by Lanvin.

Now, thanks to a recent expansion of stockists and a fair bit of blog coverage, a few of you will be familiar with the label already but despite its English roots, the moment I unwrapped my Christmas present was the first time I really took notice of the knitwear brand. I'm now hooked and am far from the only one. In the three years since its launch, the Cash Ca men’s collection has become well established in Japan, now selling into sixty of the most directional retailers and departments stores across the country. The collection is now becoming established in Hong Kong and China with a plan to open a flagship shop in Hong Kong in 2012 and I've only just learned that London's very own The Hideout has the UK exclusive. Having been spoilt rotten this Christmas I'm now hooked on the label...I might just have to treat myself to more Cash Ca in the seasons ahead...

Bluebirds are so natural...

I hope you all had a very merry Christmas and are gearing up for your new year celebrations (be that expensive or cheap, hangover guranteed or a quiet night in). I am now back in London where I belong after having a quiet Christmas with the family by the seaside and eating far, far too much. This festive season is all about excess but the January belt tightening is on it's way (oh dear) but fortunately we have the sales and the fashion weeks not too far away.

After my recent blog post you might have concluded that I would be out savouring the sales all day every day fighting over the rails and piles of so called bargains but that just hasn't been the case. I hate shopping in crowded shops, during the sale madness the clothes are scattered across the rails and floors and fellow consumers take on a more panic stricken animal attitude, either fearful eyes and a look of terror or they come out fighting, elbowing their way to the reductions. Sales can be a scene of desperation, style at times is forgotten. Some people enjoy shopping in this madness, sifting through all of the rubbish just to find that nugget of a bargain but not this consumer.

My first full day in London was spent wandering around Selfridges with EJ and the girlfriend, where last year I was fortunate enough to find some great things but this time I just wasn't in the mood. I'm sure there were some great bargains among the racks and rack of clothes but from my half hearted glances I didn't see anything, only the very fortunate or those who put in the most work succeed in arenas like the Selfridges sale. My mind was made up to vist b Store and the Shop at Blue Bird the following morning. In the interim I did venture into Liberty's and was seduced by some of the reductions, for example a Maison Martin Margiela navy suit jacket which despite the substantial price cut was still a little out of my grasp. A couple of APC items were tempting but my will power was strong enough to dissuade me buying things that I didn't really want or need.

Now onto more happier and successful tales and the wonders that were to be found within the Shop at Bluebird. Adam Green once chirped 'Bluebirds are so natural' in his song 'Bluebird' and it the shop felt very natural to me. It felt so far away from my previous shopping experience at Selfridges which left me questioning the whole sale thing. I walked out of the shop at Bluebird with a huge smile on my face, I had a bagged myself a white Givenchy shirt for £55 and a pair of wrap trousers from Unconditional for £125 but had also enjoyed myself within the shop, which is well presented and has attentive and extremely pleasant staff! There was so much to choose from, ranging from Raf Simons tapered trousers and that metallic shirt, Omar Kashoura cardigans and shirts (check out the scary myspace music) alongside rails of countless items that were great!

The sale purchases teamed up with a pair of old but quite rare converse (black with red trim).

The Unconditional trousers are unlike anything I have in my wardrobe. Wrap fly, tapered bottom, they are a play on proportions and so damn comfortable.

If you like me are dissuaded from most sales I would recommend visiting the Shop at Bluebird which was fruitful for me alongside ventures inside b Store and Concrete.

Let us know about your own success stories or nightmares with the recent sales.

Casely-Hayford SS11: The Light Through the Darkness

Much of the last twelve months have whizzed right by me, a great deal has been forgotten for one reason or another. There have, however, been a few moments which have seen the dazzlingly fast rotating clock hands stop completely, allowing me ample opportunity to soak up the scene before me. Thankfully time was stopped during my visit to the SS11 Showroom Next Door and my heart still skips a beat or two as memories of Casely-Hayford's The Light Through the Darkness fills my memory. Having enthused over the collection back in September, it is my absolute pleasure to offer first sight of the look book with you...

Cover image; Circeo washed shirt jacket in deep red cotton, Azuil collarless shirt in white Panama cotton, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey.

Casely-Hayford's fifth collection consolidates their now signature style of relaxed masculine proportions, fused with an injection of London's cocktail of youth culture. Since its inception, the label has explored the intriguing duality of English sartorialism and British anarchy but now shapes a unique aesthetic that sees the emergence of the 'Sartorial Nomad' from the shadows of the darkened sensibility of their Afro Punk of the season before. Here, Casely-Hayford visit the the idea of the transcultural traveler, whose identity is an amalgamation of the many countries and influences that once or now surround him.

Looking at this collection, I'm reminded of the photography of Etienne Dehau. In his book about the Bedouin tribes and nomadic peoples of Arabia, the photographer took us to the heart of this immense region, tracking the ancient incense route and the nomadic Bedouins. Dehau's wonderful photographs illustrated the culture of these Arabs – a word that originally meant ‘people of the desert’ – as they move from camp to camp within a land that is both hostile and overwhelming. For SS11, Casely-Hayford have reimagined the nomad. The taletend design duo turn to the purity and tranquil energy of the Bedouin nomad in order to seek out something real and something minimal negating the excess so prevalent during the last decade. The Light Through the Darkness communicates ideas of a rebirth for a new decade. There is a discordant synergy is brought to the forefront of the collection as exquisite tailoring is worn over nomadic white shirts, referencing looks often seen in the confluence of London's East End. Here, the cut is unrestrictive and loose yet it still manages to remain masculine and athletic. Fabrics are natural, colours earthy and the silhouette voluminous but minimal...

Left; Moonstone jacket in grey tarmac wool, Lapis pale grey herringbone drawstring jacket, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey, Brett olive jersey l/s t shirt and Turbeville allotment creeper. 

Right; Luxor stone cotton workwear jacket with turned black hem and Cinnabar navy ribbed cotton fatigue pants.

 

Left; Volga gathered coat in greige wool,  Azul white Panama cotton collarless shirt, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Turbeville allotment creeper. 

Right; Circeo washed shirt jacket in grey/check reverse cotton, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Aldous 2SB, greige wool jacket, Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt. Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey and Isherwood brown leather sandals. 

Right; Marmor marine cotton knit cardigan with Touareg pattern front, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Arandis grey ribbed cotton waistcoat, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Right; Tropf bi-colour minimal Mac, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy/black cotton,  Afyon scoop neck stone crushed jersey t-shirt, Cinnabar stone ribbed cotton fatigue pants.

Right; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Anatol white cotton Chino, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy in khaki cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Right; Belvoir navy canvas reversible coat, Agra bellows pocket waistcoat in navy organic cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Left; Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Right; Aldous 2SB greige wool jacket, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Basalto flat front trouser in greige wool and Bentley brown leather quilted slipper. 

Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Look book credits
Photography: Katinka Herbert
Photography assistant: Christopher Kennedy
Art direction: Casely-Hayford & Son
Model: Yussef Yu, Fine Artist.

__________

Exclusive: Casely-Hayford SS10 Look Book and Interview

The Casely-Hayford duo applying the finishing touches to their wonderful offering at Menswear Day.

Before the festive break we mentioned that we would have an exclusive gift for you on the 29th and right on time, we can now deliver our late Christmas present to you....the first look at Casely-Hayford's SS10 look book along with an interview with our favourite design duo. One of the real highlights of the extended Menswear Day back in September was Casely-Hayford's collection entitled Kings of the Kings Land. Inspired by the raw energy of Kingsland Road (where their studio is based) they unveiled a new style tribe, the 'Afropunk.' For the benefit of those who live outside of London, this seemingly unique and unconventional corner of the city is where original EastEnders co-exist with the more recently landed public school boys. This incongruous social mix conjures up a rich sartorial vocabulary which the Casely-Hayford's have used to create a new English style.

The first look at Casely-Hayford's SS10 look book.

Steve left the Fashion East Menswear Installations inspired by what he had seen but was impatient to learn more about this collection in particular. With this in mind, we caught up with Charlie and Joe to talk about the collection in more detail and to find out about their exciting plans for the year ahead whilst revealing their SS10 look book for the very first time...

A new form of sartorial mix. English Wedgewood style fused with Turkish Ottoman prints.

SS: The collection was inspired by the sights and sounds of Dalston's infamous road, Kingsland Road. What is it about this part of East London which makes it so special and so inspiring?
Casely-Hayford: We've always been interested in the idea of 'the trans-cultural' - an enriched summation of many cultures to create a unified whole, forming a sartorial mix which is unique to the UK and possibly at it's most direct in London. For us, this area of London perfectly captures the spirit simply by walking from one end of the Kingsland Road to the other. It is possible to experience some of the worlds most prominent cultures, and we wanted to echo this mood in our collection. We are excited by the way that new conclusions are drawn from this cultural fusion.

The English DNA of the brand is fused with the colour and ornamentation of beautiful prints and hard-egded far-eastern embellishments.

SS: Your first two collections have seen you fuse elements of traditional English tailoring with facets of sportswear and this one sees you continue this sartorial cocktail with the unexpected addition of African elements to the mix. Do these combinations reflect the two of you in anyway, or perhaps the interchange and evolution of your own aesthetics?
Casely-Hayford: It wasn't so much the African element that initially enticed us - it was the similarities between the powerful youth culture of London Punks and the age-old aesthetics of traditional tribal wear. The synergy between the two seemed interesting and relevant to an emerging subculture that was as of yet undefined. We were able to retain the English DNA of the brand whilst fusing it with the colour and ornamentation of these beautiful prints and hard-egded far-eastern embellishments.

A unique combination of the delicacy of the Casely-Hayford aesthetic mixed with the raw energy of the anarchic youth created a trans cultural sartorial punk that we came to define as the 'Afropunk'. All the essential Casely-Hayford elements are still central to our statement, we are simply introducing another facet.

We have spent a lot of time discussing how we define culture and both agree that it is something which is not static. For each generation there is a defining point. We felt that with this collection we could begin to touch on an aesthetic shift from one decade to the next.

Introducing the Afropunks

SS: You unveiled the 'Afropunk', as part of the extended Menswear Day at LFW, how has the reaction been to your new style tribe? And did you have a chance to enjoy the day at all?
Casely-Hayford: The reaction has been overwhelming! We didn't really expect it. It's funny that through making a stronger visual statement we seem to have connected with a wider audience. People have been keen to embrace our vision. The Casely-Hayford sartorial mood prevails but through countering cliched notions of luxury we have been able to celebrate fine craftsmanship in a modern context.

It is always difficult presenting a personal statement to the public where the designer's intention transcends the power of the viewer's interpretation, but throughout the day we were pretty surprised by the positive reaction we received from a wide and diverse range of individuals.

Rather than doing a runway show, from the very beginning we made a decision that our seasonal statement would be in the form of a selection of images that reflected the brand identity. We are interested in creating something for the few, rather than reaching out to every man. Last LFW was an exception that appealed to us because it was the 25th anniversary. The Menswear Day was significant in finally creating something credible for buyers and press in London that wasn't dominated by womenswear.

Relaxed, luxurious tailoring... English Wedgewood style.

SS: The moment Steve walked in to your space inside Somerset House's East Wing, he was struck by how meticulously styled and cast the collection was and this has been continued through to the look book. Do you enjoy the styling aspect? What was the inspiration for the ornate embellishment of Turkish prints?
Casely-Hayford: I think there are very few designers that style their own collections. But it is a major part of the process for us. There's such a strong narrative behind each garment, the story would be incomplete if the stylistic vision was not carried through with exacting measure. We felt that the ornate patterns formed the perfect cross over point between English Wedgewood style and Turkish Ottoman prints.


The "hankersleeves" featured in the look book and presentation seem to have caught a lot of people's attention. We were looking at tribal notions of beauty and wanted to utilise the metal hoops that various African tribes use to elongate areas of their body such as the neck and arms. We used colourful hand rolled silk handkerchiefs from Suffolk to anglicise the look and make it our own.

A closer look at the much talked about 'hankersleeves'.

SS: 2009 has been a huge year for Casely-Hayford, what have been the highlights for you both?
Casely-Hayford: It's been an amazing year. Being approached by several top international retailers was a major endorsement of what we are doing. Collaborating with Swaroskvi on their first ever menswear project along with Lanvin and Phillip Lim has been really exciting... and working on this new project with John Lewis has been so fulfilling. I don't think there's been anything like it before - it's essentially a celebration of 'the Best of British' under one umbrella. Each season my father will be designing a complete wardrobe and collaborating with some of the most highly respected British heritage brands for John Lewis to create new unique garments. We received some of the samples just before Christmas and they look really strong. The first items should be in store from the end of February. Lulu inviting us to take part in London Fashion Week as part of Fashion East was obviously also another highlight of the year.

We are sure to replicate Casely-Hayford'd styling when the warm sunshine returns next year.

SS: What are you looking forward to in 2010? And...can you share any hints as to what you'll be showing in February 2010 and beyond?
Casely-Hayford: 2010 will hopefully be a year of greater international expansion for the brand. We've been approached by some interesting stores over the last few months who we hope to work with in the near future.

Autumn is a little darker and harder than previous collections, Focusing more on craftsmanship and quality... but once again pushing the boundaries of English sartorialism and British anarchy.

Two final looks at SS10 before we begin looking forward to the year ahead.

Sale, Sale, Sale

Long before the presents have been unwrapped (or in my case wrapped), some days before the turkey has been reduced to a carcass and I've eaten my own body weight in roast potatoes and even some time before the family are sick of the sight of each shops up and down the high street and beyond are going into/or have gone into sale mode. The time to splurge on myself is fast approaching. I've been ever so good this December during my Christmas shopping. On previous years I buy a present for someone and then get something for myself but not this year. This could be down to maturity or maybe it was that visit from the Ghost of Christmas Past that made me see the error of my ways...anyway, whatever, I've been well behaved and the time has come for me to spend money on myself as it is sales time!

Here are a few of my picks for the sales

Selfridges
For me this is the best place to go to find bargains in the New Year. I am chomping at the bit to rummage through the rails. Last year I picked up a Preen jumper which is nothing short of a talking piece and two Unconditional items that have bolstered my wardrobe significantly (a very successful trip by all accounts). Be warned though over 3,000 people are expected to queue starting at 5am, so get there early if you are insane/desperate enough. I will wait until I return from my family Christmas and explore the treasures within this great institution on the 28th.

b Store

The b Store sale is already on...what am I doing writing this, I should be running towards Savile Row!

Browns

I've never ventured to Browns but I am told this store can be home to many bargains. If I have time and more importantly any money left I will pop in. Sale starts 26th December.

Liberty
Great discounts of up to 50 per cent on a huge range of products across the store. Expect a large selection of men’s clothes from Paul Smith, Maison Martin Margiela and co. There will also be money off beautiful homeware pieces from brands including Lladro, Kenzo and Missoni.

Topman
After years in the shadows, Topman has finally reached the dizzy heights, formally confined to sister brand Topshop. The sale could be well worth a look.


H&M
Whilst we are on the subject of the High Street why not mention this store which is a staple for many men (I personally have never had too much good fortune at any H&M but often here how great it can be). With a huge range of items all reduced by up to 50 per cent, prepare yourself for the stampede of bargain hunters over the festive break...The sale started on the 18th but I've not been brave enough to go within 50 yards of any H&M store.


Start
Stocking some of fashion’s most-wanted labels for men and women, this great Shoreditch store will be making reductions of up to 50 per cent. The sale has already started so if you are around the area at the weekend (I like going East on a Sunday) I would recommend looking at the reduced pieces like this Commes des Garcons single breasted jacket.

Concrete
This store just off Carnaby street is home to some beautiful things. On previous visits I've been known to cling on to garments that I just can't afford but hopefully this sale should rectify this problem. Sale already on

Dover Street Market
This is not normally the place to pick up bargains but it is still worth the trip, to have a wander the great space around if nothing less.
Starting December 27

I could go on and on but I won't. For a more extensive list than what I have here visit Urban Junkies who have an excellent guide. I am resigned to the fact that both my bank card and my body will be exhausted come the beginning of January. My month of January will go down in memory as the one where I had to survive off Iceland meals and Baked Beans but all my planned bargainous consumerism will certainly be worth the consequences. Happy shopping everyone.

Help!

Steve, I think I've gone crazy. I discovered New York Look and lost my mind. Is it wrong that I like this?:

Ann Demeulemeester, photo courtesy of FirstView

What is that hanging around his neck? Loose threads that they couldn't be bother hemming his trousers with? And yet... something about proportions I like.

And this:

Fendi, photo courtesy of FirstView

See through jumpers?? But still... it really does add something to the outfit, and the suit's just the right amount of shiny.

Still, at least I changed my mind about this one, right?

Calvin Klein, photo courtesy of FirstView

Yeah... that one's just a step too far. Love the colour combinations though.

p.s. oh my god.

Raising a glass

Tristan (left) wears three piece suit and white shirt by Jae Wan Park. Shoes by Church. Ring by Dominic Jones at Start-London. Richie (centre) wears velvet navy suit and white shirt by Burberry. Shoes by Church.

As the sore heads and tired limbs scattered around me indicate we have well and truly entered party season. Despite our sorry physical and mental state, we should all embrace this time of year by donning the finery we might already have in our wardrobes, whilst adding some bargain pieces from the High Street and online by taking advantages of the bargains to be had at sale time. Back in October I touched upon the idea that most of us have lost sight of how much fun it is to be well dressed. In an interview with SwipeLife Patrick Grant commented the following; "It seems like men are almost embarrassed to be well-dressed. It feels like it’s too much, or you’ve tried too hard." I think it is about time that such a belief is quashed and what better time than now? This is the time where we ordinarily drink, eat and do everything else in excess so why not have a little fun getting dressed. Now is the time to dress in excess to see out the old year whilst raising a drink in the clutches of a fur trimmed leather gloved hand to wave goodbye to 2009 welcome in 2010. Right on time, the ever inspiring Fashion156 have recently launched their Soiree Issue...

Sam wears shirt, purple longline jacket and trousers by Omar Kashoura.

Guy Hipwell and his team have certainly allowed decadence and excess to prevail in their latest offering. The fashion editorials, film (their best yet) and featured articles all capture my preferred aesthetic of the season whilst showcasing a plethora of design talent. Established names including John Rocha, Alexander McQueen, Burberry and Vivienne Westwood Man sit alongside emerging design talent emerging design talent including Casely Hayford, JW Anderson and Omar Kashoura and the pick of the recent graduates including RCA graduates Jae Wan Park and Bronwen Marshall. Marshall's opulent oand oversized furs and Hannah Taylor's fanastical knitwear actually steal the show. The dribble inducing spread of images showcase a new form of sensual dandy. Satin slippers and silk scarves suggest luxury whilst the colour is anything but bog standard black tie affair. At his pleasant surprise of the AW09 catwalk shows, John Michael O'Sullivan puts forward the idea that they marked a "return of debonair dressing - Lanvin’s satins and ribboned trousers, or Dolce & Gabbana’s Martini-quaffing playboys in woven silk jackets, dangerously reminiscent of dressing gowns - suggested a modern, easier, laid-back spin on the aesthetic." The AW09 shows undoubtedly reminded us that dressing could be merely for pleasure and this theme was picked up in September for the SS10 shows...

Alex (left) wears jacket, shirt and trousers by John Rocha. Matt (right) wears white shirt, trousers and fencing waistcoat by Alexander McQueen.

It was a pleasant surprise to see Casely-Hayford used in this editorial but their designs cetainly exude a new form of luxury. Inspired by the raw energy of Kingsland Road, Casely-Hayford SS10 collection represents a new style tribe, the Afro Punk. One of the main recurring themes of their collections is the fusion of classic, English sartorialism and British anarchy. In previous collections this manifested itself in a wonderful balance of formal tailoring and sportswear but for SS10, instead relaxed tailoring sits extremely well with tribal, handcrafted ornate embellishment. Now, there is no reason why we have to wait for the sunshine to return before splashing on some orante embellishment.

Sabine (centre) wears orange chiffon dress by Louise Amstrup. Grey suede shoes by Rupert Sanderson. Jackdor headpiece by Natasha Lawes at Luna and Curious. Sam (right) wears long johns. jacket and shorts by Matteo Bigliardi. Richie (left) wears belted mac by Raf Simons at Selfridges.

If you are still in any doubt as to what to wear to your next party despite Fashion156's guidance, my advice is always to look at Tom Ford's well constructed elegance. The Texan designer looks as though he escaped the womb wearing a dinner jacket and has perfected the art of wearing one ever since. Of course we all don't look quite as good as Mr Ford in black tie but we can but dream and take a few pointers along the way.

Introducing (ki:ts)

At this time of year it is difficult to resist the temptation to take a step back and assess the moments that have materialised over the last twelve months. With this in mind, a year in menswear summary will certainly be posted before we wave goodbye to 2010 but there are still a few moments to experience, labels to discover and collections to covet before. However, I can hint that our review will include my thoughts on a revived retail scene in London and indeed beyond. I have visited a myriad of newly opened stores in recent months and my faith in the future of menswear retail has been restored. During two of these visits a certain accessories brand has caught my eye. Up till now I have merely hinted at my admiration for (ki:ts). No longer. Trunk Clothiers first brought the label to my attention and and then 3939 duly reminded me of the fine leather accessory range. This weekend I met up with the man behind the label, Takaharu Osako to be talked through the current offering.

A look inside Trunk...
Woven belt by Ki:ts, boots by Common Projects, bag by BAG'n'NOUN and scarves by Drakes.

After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2003, Osako learnt his trade at Alexander McQueen before taking a design position at Jas MB. Last year, driven my his passion for handmade craft, he set up his own clothing and accessories brand. Taking its name from the dictionary pronunciation of the great English Romantic poet John Keats and Osako's desire to kit out the modern gentleman, (ki:ts) was formed. The label is an all too tempting cocktail of old, authentic elements mixed with modern technology and the pursuits of modern life. The accessory range takes its inspiration from the materials and craft which help create each accessory. These beautiful leather accessories are hand finished one-by-one in order not to ruin the natural feeling of the leather. Each season Osako makes up to one hundred and fifty belts and bracelets. The variety of fine Italian leathers are teamed up with sundries and buckles inspired from British horse riding and falconry detailing...

The Ki:ts range in 3939

Retrowood buckle bracelet.

Double Small Buckle Leather belt.

A close up of beautiful leather.

Black leather belt.

Surprisingly, the label is currently only Osako's fruitful hobby. He still works as an assistant designer at Jas MB by day and then dedicates his spare time to create each carefully crafted (ki:ts) product. The range itself, in addition to the stockists who buy in to the label slowly grows each season and this is how he wants it to remain. It was a pleasure to see his passion first hand, it was contagious and I could not walk away empty handed. During our discussion, the designer noticed that I was particularly taken by the retrowood versions. Up till then I had never seen such a leather in person. Amazingly, at the end of the range run through he gifted me with a bracelet version...

The wood effect bracelet in front of my Christmas tree.

Just look at the detailing...

I could not resist buying a belt for myself and opted for the stunning double buckle belt. I can't remember seeing anything quite like this before and I certainly do not own anything similar so it is a welcome addition to my accessory options.

The double buckle belt.

A closer look at the double buckle.

Osaka sources vintage fixtures for many of his belts.

I find it nigh on impossible to resist the charms of a label such as (ki:ts) and why should I? Takaharu Osako dedicates his evenings and free time to create each accessory by hand. Each accessory is carefully cut, shaped and polished and driven by his passion for fine leather craftsmanship. I'm looking forward to watching this label continue to slowly and organically grow over the coming seasons and beyond.