Advent - Day Twenty Three

3939 launched as a lifestyle and retail concept located in the basement of a well loved Japanese restaurant, Life just last month. Set up by three creative friends in Tatsuo, Pippa and Peter. Both the physical and digital spaces showcase the trios unique ideas, collaborations and exclusive products which have been developed in association with the craftsmen and talent that they all adore. This is a truly independent project driven forward by the determination to offer something different. 3939 incorporates a unique point of view and leaves me excited in the process. Having provided me with a wealth of present options for my nearest and dearest, I just had to find out what was on Tatsuo Hino's Christmas list and here it is...

__________

ELEPHANT RING BY DOG STATE

The item is the 'Elephant Ring' by Dog State . I have actually ordered to have it resized for me when I am back from Japan early next year. It is made by my friend, Toshi, who is based in London and trained at the Great Frog for eight years as residential shop keeper and designer. What I like about it is that the detailing about the face is so intricate. I cannot wait to wear this!

__________

LEWIS D LTD 204A FLYING BOOTS

My ideal Christmas gift would be the Lewis D Ltd Flying boots with shearing inside. I recently tried a pair on at the Lewis Leathers store. They were reintroduced the boots back into the range after carefully researching them right down the to the correct buckles of the original pair from the 30s. The shearling lining is sourced from a Tannery in the West Country, the leather nowadays is a high grade Cowhide for durability during everyday wear, soles are leather and the heels are rubber with a pattern identical to those found on many vintage RAF flying boots. They are a classic with heritage, sleek but modern and functional boot commanding a reasonable price (£350) for what they are.

__________

On the... oh wait, we missed a couple... days of Christmas

We might have missed a couple of days on our countdown to Christmas but the treat behind door number seven more than makes up for it. As we've said this year we wanted to highlight the sublime, the ridiculous and the truly special and exclusive. Today's pick definitely falls in the latter two categories. Aesop's Shirt Studs by Wendy Brandes. The foxes are petrified wood, rock crystal and onyx and the grapes are tourmaline. Everything is set in 18K gold and Wendy B assures us that both foxes have tested negative for rabies. Only one set has been made for that special one of a kind type of man.

To find out more about these very special shirt studs we caught up with the lovely designer herself. "The Aesop's shirt studs came about when I was meeting with a gem carver from Germany -- the same one who used dental tools to engrave the stones for my Queen Min rings (here, here and here). He also did my rock crystal and onyx owl and right now I have him working on a custom-ordered cufflinks depicting a client's two dogs. Every time the gem carver comes to New York, I go see what he has in stock. One time, he had carvings for numerous sets of shirt studs. One set was four little foxes (petrified wood, oynx and rock crystal). One of the other sets was four tiny tourmaline grape bunches. I immediately saw the Aesop's fable about the fox and the sour grapes in those two sets. I don't know how I convinced him to break the sets up so that I could buy two of each style to do a single set of Aesop's shirt studs. The remaining pieces were too small to be cufflinks, and who else is going to do a set of shirt studs with a moral to it? Maybe he's sold them as earrings. Anyway, I persuaded him to sell me two foxes and two grapes and then I had them set in 18K gold. This is the only set of these I'll ever do. The stylish guy who gets these will have a one-of-a-kind look... and all the other guys will have sour grapes about it!"

More than just a collaborator

Mihara Yasuhiro S/S 09

For eight years Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro has been collaborating with Puma on a line of wildly inventive sneakers that have certainly not gone unnoticed (with features like patterns, drips, fur, studs, stripes and metallics) and he has certainly helped take trainers to the next level. Dazed Digital caught up with the designer as s/s 09 sees the release of his first apparel line for Puma and this made me realise that he is more than just a trainer collaborator. I must admit that I am more aware of his collaborative work with Puma than his own line so the recent DD interview forced me to look at Yasuhiro's line and I'm glad that I did. It is plain to see that Yasuhiro wants to inject romance and some soul into men's dressing and until now it has not been on my radar.

Mihara Yasuhiro's s/s 09 collection was inspired by the charismatic and controversial artist Joseph Beuys. Paint was dabbed on the jersey pile and canvas lace up shoes made the artist theme explicit. The collection saw fine leathers bonded with jersey which were paired with sun bleached trousers...creating a worn, aged and sell-able collection. Personally, the highlights were the jewellery pieces adorning the models designed by Husam El Odeh, his designs have inspired me to experiment more with men's jewellery (of course I will take note of thesundaybest's warnings against piracy).

Tools of the tade... Duffy Jewellery

"As a kid I was obsessed with comics and wanted to be an illustrator but then I spent ten years working with an antiques dealer and it changed my outlook. Whilst working in restoration and being around such precious objects, I was inspired," explains jewellery designer Duffy as he sits in the heart of his workshop in East London. Surrounded by the tools of his trade and with drawings scattered across the bench, his passion for the craftsmanship of fine jewellery is infectious. "I think I've always been drawn to the idea of someone having a skill to produce something, a craft. Today as modern technology plays such a huge part in so many things, I really like the idea that their are still a handful of people who can make something from start to finish with their own hands and it is wholly their's."

In a culture of mass production, Duffy Jewellery stands apart. Working with locally sourced materials, each handmade design evolves from doodle to finished treasure all in his Sunbury Worskshop unit. Unsurprisingly, his work bench is littered with all manner of tools. From the specialist to the customised, Duffy talks us through a few of his most used and much loved pieces of kit...

A close look at Duffy's workbench

----------

Spirit Lamp

"This Spirit lamp has a wick that burns using traditionally meths but I use clear lamp oil as it provides a better flame for melting wax and meeting wax carving tools."

-----------

Three wax carving tools

"Each wax carving tool has been customised to create a more comfortable grip and shape of implement. One is an old dentist tool that has a new life dedicated to wax."

----------

Piercing Saw 

"This is used for cutting metal in various ways. As its name suggests it can pierce shapes. The blades can be changed and various size of blade used for different levels of intricacy."

----------

Rawhide Mallet

"The hammer head itself made from a strip of hide that has then been allowed to dry and harden but remains with enough give so as not to dent the metal when forming it."

----------

Victorian ring sizer 

"This must be the oldest and most sentimental tool in the collection as it was used by my great grandfather. A number of the rings are long lost and I don't tend to use it all that much but it's a beautiful object."

----------

Mandrel and Ring Size

"The mandrel is used for forming metal around (most commonly with the rawhide mallet) and the ring sizer is to check the size of a ring either whilst forming the metal or to check an existing rings measurement."

----------

Bench Peg  

"It might not look like a tool because it is part of the jewellery bench but the peg itself is where most work takes place. It allows the jeweller to hold material or jewellery securely whilst filing and sawing can take place. They take on differing shapes over the years as they are worn and filed and drilled on and usually the way in which a jeweller works will effect how it wares down." Duffy.

----------

Treasured Items... Steve Sane

Every item has a story to tell. Of course, some stories are more captivating than others and here at Style Salvage, we strive to seek out the most interesting to share with you. After weeks of fashion and previews in what future seasons will bring, we've acquired a thirst for the tangible and items that have a real narrative and meaning to them as opposed to having been dreamt up by an excited PR. Here, Sane Communications and The Great Divide's very own Steve Sane continues are series of wardrobe tales and reminds us that there really is more to menswear blogging (and life for that matter) than the goings on at the latest trade show or glimpse of a runway...

----------

Steve Sane and the wedding ring

"I love this as it signifies in one gold band the man that I have become and how fortunate I am to have the lady and relationship that it represents. It's heavy and chunky and I always know it's there - a quiet reminder of my VERY animated wonderful wife with whom I share everything. She's a top lady. I'm super proud of it."

----------

Steve Sane and the protection ring

"This ring was bought by my aforementioned lady and it is made by HOPI tribe Indians - I am a big fan of Navajo belief and symbolism - the rings two symbols represent the scorpion and the bear - the sting and the protective weight look after me - it's blessed and I dig it bad."

Steve Sane of Sane Communications and The Great Divide

----------

Showroom Next Door SS11: BUNNEY

Earlier this week I described how I spent just over three hours immersing myself in the SS11 offerings on display from the the Showroom Next Door. The expanded Showroom Next Door was an interesting and vibrant place where fashion, art and craftsmanship could be appreciated side by side. Three hours passed right by in what felt like a matter of enthused eye blinks. One of the overriding reasons why time whizzed right by was my discussion with Andrew Bunney over his amplified embellishments.  BUNNEY evolved from a single item - a large size silver pyramid stud which came in a set of three to a magpies heaven during London Fashion Week. Designer, Andrew Bunney, has gradually added more sizes and materials as he has discovered them.

The expanding collection beautifully housed in a restored display case.

There is of course a long history and tradition of producing jewellery in England and Bunney has spent a great deal of time sourcing the finest workshops and craftsmen across the country to help him crate his vision. On a personal level, the manufacturing side is very interesting to him and it is a subject that stokes a great deal of enthusiasm when he describes it. He enjoys visiting different workshops around the country to learn what can be made and the possibilities that there are. As the trade is much, much, smaller than in years gone by, there are always difficulties and some traditions or techniques have unfortunately disappeared. Of course it would be easier to produce things more quickly in other countries, but sometimes it is about establishing relationships too and keeping traditions alive where possible. It is exciting to hear how Bunney's designs have offered new challenges to the discovered craftsmen. The collections balance of age old proven techniques alongside the very latest processes is what makes it so exciting to me.

Clare de Rouen and Mr Hare wearing their choices extremely well. Photography by Marius W. Hansen.

As his offering grows, his desire to create something quite unisex and versatile remains. One of the facets that makes style in this country so exciting is how people can appropriate and interpret items and use them in a way unique to themselves. Bunney says the concept focuses on giving freedom to the wearer “you wear them how you want, on a jacket or a shirt, together or separately”. The entire line not only facilitates individuality but encourages it. To mark the launch of the new items, he decided to shoot a look book of sorts celebrating a selection of industry folk wearing their picks in a manner chosen by them. I have to confess to being somewhat inspired by Marius W. Hansen's shots and began to daydream about what I would choose and the combination I'd wear them. Below are the items that caught the attention of my inner magpie.. 

15mm silver pyramid

10mm gold pyramid.

34mm silver and gold dipped badge.

34mm silver hammered badge.

 

 The latest pieces will be on sale at DSM, Colette and the F.I.L. stores in Japan and HK (the Visvim own brand shops) early next year. Until then, I will continue to daydream about my picks and the myriad of ways in which they will be worn.

Treasured Items... Brandon Acton-Bond

As I currently find myself casually covering New York Fashion Week I couldn't resist stepping off the fashion conveyor belt in search of a change of pace. I found friend of the blog and adopted New Yorker Brandon Acton-Bond and asked him to take part in our 'Treasured Items' series. Thankfully he agreed.

Now, as we lurked in the sartorial shadows last year we revealed that Brandon is a man who knows how to use colour and play with textures to make truly wonderful, multi faceted, layered outfits. He is someone who knows how to balance vintage, high street and a mix of labels (although, he is a self confessed Issey and Comme addict) in such a way that the admiring observer has absolutely no idea where he shops. Unsurprisingly, his cherished show and tell demonstrates all of these facets...

----------

Brandon Acton-Bond and the everyday cuffs

"I wear these two cuffs everyday. To me jewellery is the hardware of style and as such it should, for me at least, be as symbolic and meaningful as a tattoo. It also represents more long term thoughts and ideas on the way I see life. It has to stand the test of time and take the hard knocks and so do the ideas.

The silver Navajo cuff was given to me by my best friend Amber Doe. It's a shame that in NYC it's tough to see the people you love on a regular basis so this keeps us together. We share almost the same birthday (23rd and 24th march) and two years ago we exchanged cuffs which we have both worn everyday since. I guess it's a glorified friendship bracelet but it means so much to me.

The lapis cuff is from Afghanistan and was made in the 80s. Whenever I start a new job I always reward myself by purchasing something I've wanted for a long time. I had seen it in a random Asian Tchotchke shop in my neighbourhood for a few months but couldn't bring myself to, as they say, "treat yo self". It stands for my commitment to keep learning everyday and to always be inquisitive. I was always the kid in class who asked too many questions and I realise how important it is to keep on asking questions. I just love the size of the stone and the crappy white metal has this texture that just gets better with tarnishing.

I like to wear a bandanna or silk scarf underneath them for comfort and contrast. It seems to frame the two cuffs in such a lovely way. My right wrist is a simple cross section of how I try to dress as a whole. Every piece I buy means something to me. Here in New York, whilst we are limited economically to what we can buy, space is even more a constraint. I decided that as my rolling rack takes up half my room I wanted it to be full of old friends. As with all closets it's a constant work in progress but if I believe dressing is an art form, and these are the tools in our paintbox, then they should be a well curated and useful selection." Brandon Acton-Bond

----------

Discovering Bunney in time for LFW

I don't want to alarm any of you but somehow we have stumbled in to September. How on earth did that happen? This means we are only a matter of days away before fashion month engulfs us all. If that was not exciting (daunting) enough we are learning about new additions to the LFW menswear lineup each and every day. The latest comes from the Touba Distribution curated Showroom Next Door who have now released their full list of participating brands. You should recall that last season, the space became my dream walk-in wardrobe the moment I stepped through the doors of 16 Hanover Square, with a few new additions to the lineup it looks as though this season will have the same affect. I have to warn you in advance that the list causes heavy breathy and heart palpitations. Casely-Hayford, Sable Clutch, Mr Hare, Armando Cabral, H by Harris, Hannah Martin, Bruno Chaussignand and Bunney. To further enhance your heart beat, I'd like acquaint you all a little closer with Bunney's jewellery line...

While making clothes for quite some time in various design positions at Gimme 5, Bunney always found himself attracted to jewellery. For him however, it was far too one-dimensional and rigid. Ultimately, Bunney was drawn to the idea of coming up with something everybody or anybody could wear. So, for the last few seasons, Bunney has been quietly navigating an elegant and refined men's jewellery offering with his range of silver pyramid stud pins sold in sets of three at Dover Street Market, Tokyo’s F.I.L.and Colette in Paris. Bunney says the concept focuses on giving freedom to the wearer “you wear them how you want, on a jacket or a shirt, together or separately”. To celebrate his inclusion at LFW, we decided to sit down with the designer to learn more about the processes involved in his creations and to learn what else he has in store.

SS: How has the line evolved since its inception?

Andrew Bunney: I started with one item in the beginning - a large size silver pyramid stud which comes in a set of three. I've gradually added more sizes and materials, and I will be showing a small range for the first time later this month. I wanted to try and make something quite unisex, and coming from the UK I always like the way in which people can take things and wear or use them in a way unique to themselves.

SS: Could you talk us through a few of the process involved in the creation of your pieces?

Andrew Bunney: To date, the ideas have been from some of the simple things that we know, and thinking about how to address them using precious materials. So from the idea and my designs, I work with a jeweller to see what the best method of manufacturing will be each time. Some of the items are made employing techniques that are usually used for making a different kind of product, so depending on the item I learn and see a new method of construction.

SS: Made in England is a fundamental facet of the label and I know that you've searched for the craftsmen to help make your designs a reality. How much of a struggle has this been and were you surprised by how tough it was?

Andrew Bunney: I wouldn't be interested in making something in England simply for the sake of it. Certain places or countries excel at different things and I want to make everything as well as possible. I approach 'Made In England' knowing that there is a long history and tradition of producing jewellery in England so I spend a lot of time to find some of the finest workshops.

On a personal level, the manufacturing side is very interesting to me, and I enjoy visiting different workshops around the country to learn what can be made and the possibilities that there are. Because the trade is much, much, smaller than in years gone by, there are always difficulties and some traditions or techniques have disappeared. I'm quite sure that it would be easier to produce things more quickly in other countries, but sometimes it is about establishing relationships too.

S: Could you explain your association with 'Uniform experiment'?

Andrew Bunney: Uniform Experiment is a mens clothing company based in Japan, and for a special release later this year they asked me to produce some gem-stone studs for them. Based on the existing stud styles, the stones are cut into the pyramid shapes, then set by hand in a special silver mount. The sets come as either Onyx + Carnelian (red), Onyx + Topaz (blue), Onyx+ Amethyst (purple).

SS: Finally, where can we find your designs?

Andrew Bunney: To date, Bunney has been selling to DSM, Colette and the F.I.L. stores in Japan and HK (the Visvim own brand shops).

Look book shot taken by Marius W. Hansen. All other previous images shown above shot by Tommy.

----------

The news of Bunney's inclusion at the the Showroom Next Door has pushed us over the edge. Roll on London Fashion Week.

Treasured Items... John Holt

As soon as I picked up the first issue John Holt's Law magazine (on the recommendation of Goodhood's very own Kyle Stewart) I knew that I had discovered a title with a refreshing point of view. For its editor Holt, style is everywhere - all you have to do is keep your eyes open. Law is a bi-annual magazine that revels in revealing what others miss and serves to document the ups and downs of the beautiful everyday. Unsurprisingly his 'Treasured Items' pick demonstrates that treasure can be found anywhere. From a market stall bargain, Holt has added his own personality in a similar fashion to how he has approached the print world. Here the editor shares its story...

----------

John Holt and his lucky charms...

"It’s my pride and joy, always close to my heart. I got the gold chain for £10 from a stall on the old Open Market in Brighton. I didn’t know how much it was worth at the time and fortunately neither did the man who was manning the stand for his wife. I was studying fashion and was therefore skint and used to spending a couple of quid on makeshift chains out of the glass cabinets in charity shops. They never lasted long and I missed the feeling of something round my neck, as those who wear a chain or a watch or a ring will know, you get used to each other. After much deliberation we did the deal and I’m pleased to say we did. Since then I’ve taken it to one of those ‘WE BUY GOLD’ kiosks and lets just say I don’t think he would have been too popular with the wife that night. All I know is it hasn’t turned to silver like the others.

My mum gave me the horseshoe that her best friend gave to her for a 21st birthday present. Some people say you shouldn’t turn horseshoes upside down because you will lose all your luck, I say it showers me with every step. The crown is from Edinburgh castle, which my pal and I visited whilst on a trip round the coast of Scotland in his Transit. I can’t speak highly enough of that country, the locals and the scenery. I guess you could also say the crown is a symbol of my love for our queen, she’s inside the back page of the magazine. I thought if she’s ever going to be in an issue then in this diamond jubilee it must be. The shell is a fossilised unicorns horn, which I found on a beach in Wales and from the acorn a mighty magazine, will grow.

Two times too many I’ve come close to losing this chain and its charms. Once after a scuffle in town and twice climbing up the old Astoria in Brighton to paste up LAW posters at night. On both occasions I’ve managed to get it back but getting away with it by the skin of my teeth like that has led me to think about stopping wearing it, because I can’t bear to go through the heart sinking feeling of losing it again. Perhaps that is the mark of a truly treasured item, too rare to find another too treasured to wear." John Holt

----------

Wallpaper* Handmade... Sebastian Tarek

From the promising talent of Tariq Mahmoud explored below we turn our attentions to one of his teachers, Sebastian Tarek. Ever since we encountered the bespoke shoemaker's beautiful, bespoke and handmade men’s shoes in the eclectic surroundings of the NEWGEN MEN and Fashion East Installations AW11 we have kept a captivated eye on the craftsmen. Given his own excitement by the challenge of fusing his traditional skills as a maker of a timeless artisanal product with a more contemporary and relevant aesthetic, it should come as little surprise that he RCA MA tutor was so enamoured with the work of Mahmoud. Tarek has worked on the MA course for some time now and admits that "at times I get jealous of watching the students create in complete freedom, designing when only the sky is the limit." Thankfully for us, Tarek has recently been given such an opportunity through Wallpaper* Handmade. The release of the Handmade Issue signals the culmination of the the design and style publication's annual celebration of creative talent and the story can now be told. 

Each year the project starts with ideas being thrown at master craftsmen, innovative manufacturers and free to dream designers. creative connections are made, problems are solved and wishes fulfilled. Editor in Chief of Wallpaper explains, "Handmade is a testimony to great design, talent and ideas, and the determination to achieve the extraordinary. We are once again celebrating beautiful new friendships and beautiful new things." It is a celebration of new friendships and beautiful new things. 

The Handmade logo that inspired key elements of both of Tarek's shoes, the Handmade issue and a quick look at Tarek's contribution alongside the Stash bag.

Alongside Lernert and Sander putting Brioni on film, Aldo Bakker laying some skin on the ‘Valet’ chair and Paul Cocksedge making a marble bookmark, Sebastian Tarek was invited to contribute stunningly crafted shoes. An extension of his bespoke shoemaking business and approach to design, the project allowed Tarek to push both himself and his peers to create something wonderfully unique. We caught up with the craftsmen at his East London workshop to learn more about the project and to take a closer look at the result of the collaboration...

"The handmade project for someone like me is just gold dust, an incredible platform and the very idea of it being commissioned fits well with what I do as a bespoke shoemaker. I've never considered myself as someone who designs but rather I make items to people's request. Wallpaper originally asked me what I'd like to do and I went away and thought hard about it. I gave them a few ideas and the most suitable was collaborating with two people that I know personally, have worked with previously and whose work I think fit very much within the same ethos and same position, they are peers. Duffy and Claire Barrett are both London based and work within beautifully British styles and techniques."

The two designs.

By recruiting two likeminded craftsmen who marry traditional skills with contemporary design, the results are quite breathtaking. Using the handmade logo (shown above), embroidery designer extraordinaire Claire Barrett applied it to a neat creeper lace up whilst one of Tarek's good friends and master jeweller Duffy embossed it on a buckle to help create a truly special monkstrap.

The first person I worked with was Claire Barrett who runs a company called Hathawne & Heaney and has worked for a number of designers in the past and previously she was creative director of Hand & Lock who are the embroidery firm who deal with most of Savile Row's requirements. Amazing stuff. She spoke to me a while ago about working together and the Handmade project was just the ideal opportunity to do so. I got in touch, explained the project and she mentioned that she'd love to do something with blacked out gold work, the embroidery style that are more common on large military pieces. To tie it in with Wallpaper specifically we experimented with elements of the Handmade logo, deconstruct it and take portions from it. When it came back I was blown away."

"For the overall construction, I had this idea bouncing in my head for some time to make an entirely handmade creeper. I've never been hugely trend led or derivative but you do see brothel creepers everywhere and it is very much one of those shoes that is comes from the post-industrialisation age. They've never been a handmade object, benchmade to a degree but they came in to existence when manufacturing came in to place. I liked the idea of trying to make it a handmade object. It is entirely made out of leather and essentially a welted shoe  with a cork footbent which is wrapped and fixed to the welt with leather and then channelled horizontally to make the ridges."

Have you encountered a finer creeper? Barrett's delicate embroidery work and Tarek's masterful construction embody the real spirit of Wallpaper* Handmade.

The creative coming together with Claire Barrett was a first for Tarek but he has worked with his other collaborator, Duffy, previously. The result is just as special though. Thanks to Duffy's fine metal work and Tarek's touch with leather, the pair have helped reimagine the monkstrap...

"In many ways the idea evolved from an initial conversation with one of my regular collaborators, Duffy. I'm not a massive fan of the monk shoe, it is neither a real classic yet still feels a little stuffy and odd. We wanted to make it feel more contemporary and modern. I know for a fact that there are only about three buckles in circulation across British footwear manufacturing that are used for monk shoes, just another indicator of the demise of the industry. I just couldn't use one of them. Given the relative simplicity of the shoe itself we wanted to make it really decorative. Duffy took the banding that goes around the logo and reimagined the cross hatching on the buckle, there's a sense of movement throughout which I love."

The fruits of Tarek's collaboration with Duffy.

Examining the fruits of the collaborations and listening to Sebastian Tarek talk about the Wallpaper* Handmade project in general it is easy to see that the shoemaker enjoyed the creative freedom and working with like minded specialist craftsmen. Each were given the freedom to really express themselves. The resulting cocktail of traditional skills and true innovation ultimately delivers objects of great beauty. I'll leave you with Ignore This Film's documentation of Tarek making the shoes...